Let’s head out on an oyster shaped loop to find some
succulents delicacies of the shallows of Hood Canal to either eat, photograph
or just enjoy a day in your parks. This 78-mile trip will take you past some
prime oyster gathering beaches plus a few farms and stores to buy these tasty
bivalves-if you happen to show up in the wrong season or are unlucky in your
harvest. And with any of these road-trips, there’s plenty of opportunity to
photograph the beauty the state has to offer.
Just a note here that if you plan on harvesting oysters,
check the WFWD for licensing, requirements, and seasons.
This is a road trip where the beaches are filled with the
empty oyster shells of previous harvests for both human consumption and animal
– racoons and gulls love slurping a raw oyster on the half-shell. When I come
to these beaches for photographs, I look for scenics of hood canal as well as
details of the beaches and textures of the oyster shells themselves – I use my
shorter lens for these types of images. Because these beaches offer an
abundance of food for other critters as well, be prepared with a long lens in
your bag, just in case you can catch a gull lifting off to drop its find on the
rocks below. Low tide is better for harvesting, but anytime is a great time for
photography.
Our first stop along the way is Kitsap Memorial State Park,
just north of Poulsbo on the eastern shore of Hood Canal. In the summer months,
this park is popular with the wedding crowd and for good reason, the park is
tucked into grand douglas-firs with views of Hood Canal and the Olympics
beyond. Sunrise can be wonderful from here as the early morning sunlight
reflects off the mountains. And sunsets aren’t too bad either. At high tide,
the beach is almost non-existent but low tide exposes the treasures the waves
conceal.
Next, we’ll cross the Hood Canal floating bridge to the
little oft-forgotten Shine Tidelands State Park. Some think of this park as a
little wayside, someplace with an outhouse for a quick bathroom break. And most
might poo-poo the idea of this little beach of being photogenic, but I
challenge you to look closer. To watch the eagles fly overhead. To watch the
ducks swim in the marsh. To watch sunset and moonrise over Hood Canal. It is a
small respite close to highway 104 yet peaceful.
We’ll head back out to highway 104 west to catch highway 101
south and our first stop along the way is Dosewallips State Park. With over
1000 acres to explore and 5 miles of beach front, this park is a destination
for all adventurers. Oyster gathering is done on the beaches east of highway
101 – those beaches also hold sweeping views of Hood Canal and the Kitsap
Peninsula. The shoreline here can be muddy and the marsh grasses evolved for
the harsh conditions of saltwater habitat and show it by being coarse to the
touch. The shoreline ripples along water’s edge to add rhythm to your images.
Once you tear yourself away from the flats of Dosewallips,
travel south for 10 miles to little Triton Cove. The views aren’t expansive in
this little boat put-in, but the beach is littered with oyster shells ready for
a macro lens to work with textures and patterns. I can often get lost in these
little details, but we have more parks to visit so let’s hop back into the car
and continue south 29 miles to Potlatch State Park near the southern “hook” of
Hood Canal and the Skokomish Indian Reservation. The term Potlatch comes from
the of the indigenous people of the coastal Pacific Northwest and means a
ceremonial feast where gifts are given and exchanged. And the gift of this park
is the delicious oysters we are looking for.
If you are not into harvesting your own oysters, stop in
Hamma Hamma along the way at the oyster beds and restaurant. Or go a little
further to Union to a few of the shops there.
The views from Potlatch are not as expansive as Dosewallips
closer to the mouth of Hood Canal, but you will still find beauty in the
landscape. The beach here is again muddy with rocks and oyster shells, perfect
for beach details.
One last park to visit as we drive around the hook of Hood
Canal and through the town of Union. Just north of Union on highway 106 is
Twanoh State Park. Because of it’s relative closeness to Bremerton, the oyster
gatherers are often found along its shores. A few old CCC building s and long
high docks add interest to your landscapes here and because we are now facing
west, we have views of the southern Olympics across the water.
These parks have so much more to explore than just the
shoreline and oyster beds. There is beauty here in all that the park holds. It’s
easy to spend a day or a weekend along the beaches of Hood Canal.
Directions from Bainbridge Island: (Mileages are
approximate)
To Kitsap Memorial State Park: From the ferry terminal,
follow highway 305 through Bainbridge Island for 13 miles to merge onto highway
3 north just beyond Poulsbo. Drive highway 3 for 4 miles to turn left on NE
Park St.
To Shine Tidelands State Park: Head back to highway 3 and
turn north towards Hood Canal Bridge and cross the bridge in 3 miles – this
gets you onto highway 104. As you get to the other side of the bridge, turn
right to the park.
To Dosewallips State Park: Continue on highway 14 west. Take
the exit (right exit) to Center Rd in 9.5 miles and head south to Quilcene and
the junction with highway 101 in 8 miles. Follow highway 101 for 12 miles to
the park. There are 2 entrances to the park. On the west side of the highway is
the camp area and trails through the forest. On the east side of the highway is
access to the shoreline and oyster gathering.
To Triton Cove State Park:
Continue south on highway 101 for 8 miles. The entrance to the park is
on the east side of the highway.
To Potlatch State Park. Back on highway 101 south, drive
20.5 miles to the park. The day use area is on the east side of the highway and
camping is on the west side of the highway. As you are driving, you will go
through the towns of Hamma Hamma and Hoodsport. Pick up oysters in Hamma Hamma
and stop for ice cream and coffee in Hoodsport.
To Twanoh State Park: Continue south on highway 101 to the
junction with highway 106 at Skokomish and head east towards the town of Union.
There are a few additional places along this route to pick up oysters. Once on
highway 106, it is 12 miles to the park. The campground is on the east side of
the highway and the day use with oyster gathering is on the west side of the
highway.
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