Westward Ho! Part 2

Many heeded the call born out of an ideology that owning land would lead to independence and virtue which in turn would make the nation strong and through “Manifest Destiny” it was an American’s obligation to take to the edge of the continent our great experiment in liberty. Young men and old, women and children all migrated west across the great plains to the fabled riches of the west with dreams of farms, ranches, timber, minerals, and a chance for freedom to choose their own destiny. It was a dream worth dying for.

One-thousand settlers journeyed out from Missouri in 1843 to start the great migration of Euro-Americans heading west to find their small piece of freedom. Each year after, more wagon trains took the 4-6 month journey across the plains surviving illness, hunger, drought, and the violent storms of the American plains. Their journey took them through raging rivers and over treacherous mountain ranges to California and the Oregon Territory. Between 1841 and 1856, more than 350,000 settlers made their way to the west coast. Those early settlers were often alone in the wilderness, carving a homestead out of the thick forests of the Pacific Northwest and south into California. Their closest neighbors could be more than a day’s ride away or, more likely, they were the native Americans whose lands Euro-Americans settled upon.

This is a road trip that explores the experiences of these early settlers in the Pacific Northwest.

As settlers moved into the area, they were met by forests thick and vibrant with life. Douglas-firs and Western Red Cedars towering overhead with an understory of thick Salal and Sword Fern could give a person used to the more open forests of the east claustrophobia. And the consistent rains that nourish the plant life could give the most joyous person melancholy. That rich fertile land would make for a rich fertile farm. The timber from these massive trees would make millionaires out of paupers. Soon the land was tilled and planted. Homes and barns sprang up and the forest was kept at bay.

Just a few miles from I-5 is one of the few remaining stands of low land old growth forest in Washington at Lewis and Clark State Park. In an effort to preserve old growth forests, these 600 acres was set aside from development and continues to teach us about the Pacific Northwest forest ecosystem before settlers began to tame the wilderness. With over 5 miles of hiking trails and 8 miles of multi-use trails, there’s no shortage of opportunity to explore. I enjoy spending time on the Trail of the Deer and the Old Growth Forest Trail. Check out my tips on photographing forests.

Just a few miles from Lewis and Clark State Park stands a small unpretentious cabin, a replica of the home of John R. and Matilda Jackson. The original Jackson house is thought to have been the 1^st Euro-American structure built north of the Columbia River. John called the farm The Highlands and together he and Matilda raised 7 children in their modest home. They would soon come to find that on the frontier, a home isn’t just a home. The Highlands would become a way station along the Cowlitz Road between Oregon City and Olympia, a post office, hotel, tavern, grocery store and courthouse. John himself was more than a husband, father and farmer – he became a sheriff, assessor, tax collector, territory representative and a justice of the peace. To make civilization work in the wilderness, one had to wear many hats.

The park is small but with plenty of opportunity to photograph the cabin among the trees. Look for the small details of the building materials – while the cabin is a reconstruction of the original building, much of the techniques and materials represent what was used in the 1840’s to 1850’s. Tours of the cabin can be arranged in advance by calling 360-864-2643.

Our last park looks at how fervently migrants believed in their dreams and the lengths they would go to fulfill them. This story starts with a young man and his excitement over his family and their religious followers’ decision to move to the fertile lands of the Willapa Hills in what is now SW Washington. Willie hoped to drive one of the oxen teams across the prairie and worked so hard he gained the respect of the rest of the group and was awarded the lead oxen team. Sadly just a few weeks before departure, Willie became ill and died. But no one wanted to leave Willie behind, so his father built a casket lined with lead, filled it with alcohol and Willie’s corpse, placed the casket in the lead wagon and traveled across the plains into the Oregon Territory. Once they arrived at this place that Willie dreamt of living, they finally laid him to rest.

Willie’s actual gravesite is inaccessible, but a wayside along the highway tells his story – and the story of the thousands of migrants who believed that their destiny could be written in the promise of land in the frontier of a young nation writing its own destiny.

Directions from I-5 north or south: (mileages are approximate)

To Lewis and Clark State Park: Take exit 68, highway 12 E, and turn east. In 3 miles, turn right onto Jackson Highway. In 2 miles, enter Lewis and Clark State Park. The day use area will be on your right and the parking area here is seasonally closed. On your left is the Environmental Learning Center and the multi-use trails.

To Jackson House State Park Heritage Site: Head back to highway 12 along the Jackson Highway. In 2 miles the park will be on your right. (You passed the cabin on your way to Lewis and Clark State Park).

To Willie Keil’s Grave State Park: Head back to highway 12 and turn left towards I-5. Merge onto I-5 northbound. Take exit 77, highway 6, west toward Pe Ell. Continue west on highway 6 for 23 miles. Look for the pull-out with the interpretive sign on your left.

There be Ghouls Here . . . and Zombies

It was a dark and stormy night . . . ok not so stormy, we had stars shining in the heavens and speaking of shining the moon was also nicely bright. What we did have was ghouls and goblins and zombies and clowns. Yes my friends, clowns - the scariest creatures around.

What was all this, you might ask?

It was the first ever Haunted Fort at Fort Casey State Park.

This past weekend I volunteered as a guide for the park's Haunted Fort which benefitted the lighthouse restoration.

The guides dressed up in costume and escorted groups through the zombie infested yard to Battery Turman where the real excitement began. This is not to say there weren't screams prior to showing up at the "evil carnival" The zombies and ghosts heard plenty of screams along our walk past axe-man, the sarge and the zombie picnic.

But at Battery Turman, staff and volunteers had created a beautiful mix of anticipatory scares and frightful surprises. And with each group running out of the rooms there was joyful laughter following screams and tears - laughter assuaging fears. I couldn't help but laugh myself, in unison with their joy of fright.

In the end, the Haunted Fort raised $10000.00 for restoration of the lighthouse.

I'm looking forward to next year's Haunted Fort.

Washington State Parks: Potholes

This may be just the park the started it all. Not my initial thoughts on photographing Washington State Parks, but to write a book about them and for them.

I had been reading another photography guide book that I had been recommending to others and even lead a group out on one of the authors "trips." The book is well written, filled with insightful hints and tips. My intent here is not to discredit the author or his book. I have great respect for the author who is a talented photographer and writer who has written more than one photography guide that I use - which is why I am not sharing the title here.

However, while researching some parks on the east side of the Cascades, I ran across a passage for Potholes State Park that got me thinking. The passage said that Potholes State Park, like most Washington State Parks was no more than a campground in a mowed lawn. The author did go on to say that there were some nice marsh areas along the shore of the reservoir lake that are perfect for birds and bird photographers. But it was the - like most Washington State Parks, mowed lawn and campground - that got me wondering. Is this really the perception of our State Parks?

If that is the perception, then I want to change that perception. I wanted to show others that Washington's state parks can be photographic destinations.

And then the birth of a book.

I will admit that it you go to many of the parks that have campgrounds, the campsites are mostly on mowed lawns. Does make for room for kids to run and play near their parents. And the primary camping are for Potholes is just that. The cabins and tent sites are tucked away in the trees closer to the lake and creek. Here cottonwoods line the campsites, willows separate you from the marshes, marshes lead into the lake. Each of these provide food and shelter for birds and subject matter for bird photographers. There is also plenty of textures to photograph in these areas.

Near the day-use area and boat ramp are views of the lake and low-lying hills of the surrounding agricultural land. The park sits on the west end of the lake and faces the sunrise in the morning. They are tranquil mornings on the lake before the campers are awake. The birders begin to stir and swim across the pastel colored lake waters or fly through the multi-colored sky.

Beyond the campground, away from the lake is a landscape filled with sage and rabbit brush. Follow the short trail along the creek through the brush and grasses. More birds can be found here, but don't forget to look to your feet. In the spring lupine, phlox, lomatium and other wildflowers grow in the shade of the shrubs. I've even watched a beaver swimming in the grasses along the creek bed.

There is a lot here to explore and photograph.

Getting here:
From I-90 east bound - Take exit 164 for C NW Rd/Dodson Rd. Head south to Frenchman Hills Rd W, 10 miles and turn left. Follow Frenchman Hills Rd W to WA-262, 5 miles and turn left. Continue on WA-262 for 5 1/2 miles to Potholes State Park.
From I-90 west bound - Take exit 179 for WA 17 S and head south to Rd M SE for 2 miles. Turn right on Rd M SE and continue to WA-262, 7 miles. Follow WA-262 to Potholes State Park in another 7 miles.

Washington State Parks: Conconully

On the outskirts of the little town of Conconully which lies on the edge of the Okanagan National Forest, sits the small park of Conconully State Park. On the east side of the park site the town of (at last count) 210 residents and on the west side, Conconully Lake, a reservoir lake created by the Conconully dam.

I fist came here late one 4th of July. I didn't have a reservation for the campground and the town was buzzing with revelers. For a small town, they sure do know how to throw a party with live music well into the night and an old western-style gun battle scheduled for the next day. I found a parking spot just outside of the park along one of the roads, in between a truck and a couple of motorcycles, the riders of which were in town having some fun.

Zillah and I snuggled into the front seat of the car for a restless night's sleep - at some point in my life, sleeping in the car has ceased to be fun - but we made the best of the situation. At some point in the night, a storm passed through and fat raindrops splattered against the open window and into the car. I rolled the window up a bit. Cars drove by, drunks stumbled home and the night turned into morning.

It was morning that gave me my first sight of Conconully State Park, nestled in the hills looking out over the lake. Zillah and I startled some ducks as we meandered along the shore. An osprey dove into the water fishing for breakfast and the sunlight lit the surrounding hills, still trying to hold onto the last of the green of spring.

But that was last year. This year is a different story - the town residents and visitors have been ordered to evacuate the town as a fire bears down on the lake, the park and the historic buildings.

Fire has no direction - it goes as the winds push it and the fuel pulls it. And now a cute little town with 100+ years of history, festivals and western gun fights is in the path that fuel and wind have built for the fire. The little park on the shores of Conconully Lake with the ducks, osprey and old cottonwoods could be surrounded not by rolling green hills but hills blackened by flame and smoke and soot.

My thoughts and prayers are with those who had to flee for safety and the fire fighters trying to save the town. And prayers for big fat raindrops splashing down.

Washington State Parks: Willie Keil's Grave

On a small hill in a cow pasture nestled in the Willapa Hills of SW Washington stands a testament of the strength of a father's promise to his son. Willie Keil's Grave is no more than a pullout along highway 6 but it's story if far grander.

Willie's father was the leader of a religious sect called the Bethelites based in Bethel, MO. The group of Bethelites decided to look for their "promised land" in the fertile hills of the Oregon Territory. The year was 1855 and the way to the northwest from Missouri was a long arduous trek over the great plains by wagon. Willie was 19 and enthusiastic about the adventure. He learned to drive the oxen team that would pull his family's wagon across the plains. He became so proficient that the Bethelites awarded him the honor of driving the lead team.

However, prior to the departure, Willies became ill with Malaria. His father promised that he would not leave Willie behind - no matter what. Four days before the departure, Willie died. Remembering his promise to his son, he built a sturdy coffin lined with lead and filled it with whiskey to preserve Willie's body, put the coffin in the lead wagon and proceeded to lead his followers to the fertile lands of the northwest.

Six months later Willie was finally laid to rest in his coffin filled with whiskey in the rolling green hills of the Willapa valley.

Sadly, the Bethelites moved south of the Columbia River a few years later, but they left Willie in the lands he had dreamed of.

Now, you might not think there is much to photograph at a highway roadside along a cow pasture, but it is these situations where you can really exercise your creativity. While on road trips, have you ever grabbed your camera while running to the bathroom at the rest area? If so then you know what I'm talking about. If not, why not?

Practicing your photographic craft isn't all about the grand landscape with stunning lighting and awe-inspiring sunlight reflected in the clouds. Practicing photography is finding the elements of a landscape that help portray your emotions and experience at that time. It's in places like waysides when you want to stretch your legs that are perfect for stretching your creative muscles.

Camera memory is cheap so why not play and practice to understand what you're aiming for and how to get there. Maybe at some point, you will be asked to lead the way as Willie was. Just stay healthy so when you reach your goal you can appreciate it.

To get there: Willie Keil's Grave State park is located on Highway 6 just 4 miles east of Raymond or 51 miles west of Chehalis.

Washington State Parks: Jarrell Cove

To borrow a phrase from my sister when she described Jarrell Cove, this is a little gem of a park.

With two large docks, 14 off-shore moorage bouys and several boat-in camping areas, Jarrell Cove is used primarily for boaters out fishing in the waters off Key Peninsula or out for a relaxing paddle around the islands. But there is so much more to this park.

A trail allows visitors to stroll through the forest, towering douglas-fir reaching towards the sky with salal and sword fern greening the forest floor. Wildflowers and mushrooms peak out from under moss covered logs that appear to glow in the light. It's a forest that seems so wild but always just a few yards from the campground and road.

But there is more. Walk to the "L" dock for views further into the cove. Come here in the morning to catch the morning glow over the trees or the evening to catch the last rays of light on those same trees - it will feel different in the different light. On the "T" dock look across to the boats moored on the other side of the cove or look out into Pickering Passage.

Come to Jarrell Cove for a quiet respite, your camera will not be disappointed.

To get here: From Shelton drive north on Highway 3 for 6 miles or south on Highway 3 from Bremerton for 23 1/2 miles. Turn east on E Pickering Rd for 3 miles across the Harstine Island Bridge then turn left on North Island Dr. Follow North Island Drive for 3 1/2 miles and turn left on E Wingert Rd to the park.

Washington State Parks: Wanapum

The mighty Columbia River starts with not so humble beginnings in the Columbia Icefields of the Canadian Rockies and flows 1,243 miles to the Pacific Ocean. When Lewis & Clark first explored the west and David Douglas investigated the native flora and fauna, the Columbia ran free and wild. But in recent history this grand river was tamed and tethered, passing through 14 dams providing flood control, irrigation and electricity to the populations of the northwest.

Among these is Wanapum Dam which forms LakeWanapum near Vantage. The dam lies south of Vantage and between the town and the dam on the shores of Lake Wanapum lies Wanapum State Park.

Sitting on a small hill above the lake, Wanapum has a nice view of the dam to the south – far enough away the ever illuminated lights aren’t a nuisance to campers. Wait for the vibrant blue of twilight and the lights from the dam against twilight and the canyon walls can make a compelling image. Walk through the sage hillside in the spring to photograph wildflowers in the scrubby brush. Beautiful floral colors against the grey green sage creates a beautiful contrast.

When the waters in Lake Wanapum are low, walk the sandy beach between the day use area and the boat ramp. The beach here is littered with thousands of tiny clam shells, some no larger than a dime. Try photographing them backlit by the sun to show off their glowing transluscence.

For a small park built primarily for camping to accommodate the visitors to Ginkgo Petrified Forest State Park to the north and boaters visiting Lake Wanapum, Wanapum State Park has a lot of potential for beauty.

To get there:  From I-90 either east or west take exit 136 from Vantage/Huntzinger Rd. Turn south and drive for 3 miles to the park.

Washington State Parks: Ginkgo Petrified Forest

Once upon a time there was a vast forest covering what is now the dry landscape of eastern Washington. Douglas-fir, oak, hemlock, walnut and ginkgo forested the land stretching for miles in a blanket of greens. Then volcanic eruptions blanketed the land east of the cascades in lava and ash killing the forest and covering lakes. Soon any logs that had fallen into the lakes were preserved in a chemical process where nutrients in the logs were replaced with silica turning them to stone.

Fossilized trees.

Kind of cool really. But what’s really cool about the petrified trees of Ginkgo is that this is one of the few places on earth where fossilized remains of ginkgo trees exist. Ginkgo trees no longer grow naturally in the wild, they are a cultivated tree but at one time they could be found in forests growing freely. And this is why Ginkgo State Park is named after the tree – it holds the proof that these trees were once wild.

The park is essentially separated in two distinct areas although much of the land surrounding Ginkgo is under Washington State Park protection, it is undeveloped. The developed areas contain 3 miles of hiking trails, picnic areas, boat launch and Interpretive Center. 

The first area of the park is where you will see the petrified trees. Looping trails meander through the hills giving you views of the sage country and glimpses of the petrified trees. The trees are partially submerged in the earth locked behind iron fencing. But it you place your lens on the fencing and zoom in past the fence, you can easily capture details of the trunks. Also bring along a medium sized diffuser to help block the sun from casting harsh shadows across your subject. But the trees aren't the only things to photograph here. Song birds fly and sing amongst the sage brush and in the spring flowers spread across the land shaded by the shrubs. And the views are simple yet soothing.

In the town of Vantage is the second area to explore. High on a bluff overlooking the Columbia River stands the interpretive center telling the story of the natural and cultural histories of the area. Here you can find more petrified logs and petroglyphs rescued from the flooding River when Wanapum Dam was built about 5 miles south of the park. From this vantage point, you have views up and down the Columbia River and the basalt cliffs that contain the river.

A trip to both areas is well worth your time.

To get there: From I-90 heading either east or west, take exit 136 (Vantage/Huntzinger Rd) and turn north to Vantage.  For the Interpretive Center, drive through Vantage on Main St and turn right on Ginkgo Ave. Drive to the end to the parking lot. For the Petrified Forest trails, continue on Main St as it curves to the left and becomes Vantage Highway. The parking area for the trails is approximately 2 miles on the right. 

Washington State Parks: Field's Spring

Sometimes it pays to talk to the park rangers, volunteers and other employees of the state parks.
On my recent trip to Field's Spring, a park I had never visited before but will be visiting again, I was meandering around the parking lot and the trails between one of the lodges and the campground. The park is know for being a wildflower heaven during the months of May and June, so I was looking at all of the forest wildflowers popping up and was completely thrilled to be able to photograph both the male and female flowers of the meadowrue.

Before I had decided to stay close to camp (I was rather tired after the drive from Seattle to south of Clarkston), I had the opportunity to chat with Mike & Kathy the campground hosts. A very kind couple who enthusiastically showed me the wildflowers pictures they had taken on their hike up Puffer Butte, the high point of the park with views into Oregon and Idaho.  They found lupine, lomatium, calypso orchids, phlox, paintbrush and several other flowers on the trail and in the meadow at the top. Feeling the exhaustion set in, I decided to stick around camp and head up the hill for sunrise and morning golden hour photography.

So there I was, meandering around the campground and lodges when a beat up red sedan pulled up next to me with an older gentleman driving, his passenger was a big German Shepard standing in the passenger seat nose to the windshield and tongue hanging out. "You looking for birds?" he asked leaning his head out the window. One look at the car and the monster of a dog next to him, I knew he was someone with something to say. "No, not really. I'm looking for wildflowers - they're easier to spot."

"Oh. You want wildflowers. Well, have you been out the corral trail yet?"

"No. Where is that."

"You'll want to follow the dirt road here past the lodge to the gate. Go through the gate onto the trail. Take the Morning Song Trail and at the end of that trail there's a smaller trail that follows the ridge. You can go out there. You can go anywhere - it all belongs to the park, so it's ok. But that's where you'll find all the wildflowers you want. I know - I used to work here."

"Oh, thank you. This road here?"

"Yep. you can drive out to the gate too - there's a parking lot there."

"Thanks."

I watched as he drove off with his dog balancing in the front seat. I looked at the road he pointed out and decided that I needed to explore every corner since that is why I was there. His advice did not disappoint.

Just off the Corral Trail was the Morning Song Trail. A short walk brought me to sweeping views of the Blue Mountains and at my feet - flowers. Lupine, Balsamroot, Scarlett Gilia, Indian Paintbrush in so many colors I lost count and flowers I had never before seen.

I followed Morning Song to it's end but it hooked back into the Corral Trail. There was no trail along the ridge. I thought to retrace my steps, but instead continued along the Corral Trail to its end. I did find the trail along the ridge but will tell you about it in the book in a feature named Insider's Tips. These will be hints and tips from the people who know the park from the inside out.

Oh, and at the end of the Corral Trail is an old broken down corral and more views including a view of Puffer Butte.

To Get There: It's a short 29 miles from Clarkston, WA. Follow Highway 129 south to Asotin. In Asotin, Highway 129 turns right to head up into the plateau. Turn right to continue on Highway 129. The park is on your left 22 miles from Asotin.

Washington State Parks: Camano Island State Park

Camino Island State Park is a case study of a community coming together with a common goal and building a long lasting legacy. Organized by the South Camano Grange on July 27, 1949, 500 volunteers from Camano Island and nearby Stanwood built the park. In one day, they cleared the land, built roads and trails, picnic tables and a parking area. The South Camano Grange won 3rd prize in a national contest for the event and the park.

Over the years Camano Island State Park has grown but the devotion of a small group of residents who believed that they could build a park and create access to the beach for everyone can still be felt in every trail, campsite and table.

The parks sits on a wooded high bluff overlooking Saratoga Passage and includes the rocky beach below. Trails meander throughout the park weaving through the thick forest of Douglas Fir and Sword Fern. The Al Emerson Nature Trail built in remembrance for the first park ranger takes a hiker on a journey through the life cycle of the forest. A photographer can find small intimate vignettes of nature and life in the trees.

From viewpoints along the bluff, you have sweeping views of Saratoga Passage and the mountains of the Olympics and southeast towards Mt Rainier. head down towards the beach and you'll find on the east side of the parking lot a marsh filled with cattails and birds. The beach is rocky and popular with shellfish harvesters. Which can be a boon to photographers looking for details on the beach. Textures abound as do small vignettes of sea life. While on the beach, throw your polarizer on your lens and play with the reflections on the ripples and the rocks below. Don't leave before sunset, for here is a grand place for the colors of the evening.

To Get There:

From I-5 North or South, take exit 212 for State Route 532 to Stanwood and Camano Island. Follow SR 532 west for approximately 10 miles and continue onto E Camano Island Dr. In about 6 miles turn right onto E Monticello Dr. Turn right on SW Camano Dr and then right on Lowell Point Rd.

Washington State Parks: Keystone Spit

You almost don't realize that this State Park is there and if you do, you probably think that it's just an extension of Fort Casey just to the north. To be fair, Keystone Spit is managed by the staff at Fort Casey but it is designated as it's own and why it's separated here.

There's good reason why the two are managed together though, while buildings were being constructed at Fort Casey housing was built on nearby Keystone Spit for the workers.

The spit is a narrow piece of land separating Admiralty Strait from the marshy Crockett Lake. Highway 20 runs along the crest, but this is a peaceful area. Even as the ferry comes and goes at the north end of the spit you can find wilderness here. Having the privilege of close vicinity to Coupeville and Ebey's Landing National Historical Preserve, it's easy to get lost in the quiet ebb and flow of the tides, seasons and farming life.

The beach is rocky and often lined with fishermen during the season. You can photograph little vignettes of beach life along the shore - colorful rocks and interesting pieces of driftwood. Or fishermen in the early morning light.

If it's wildlife you seek, carefully cross the 2 lane highway (very few cars travel this stretch but read the warning below) to Crockett Lake. Here is a birder's paradise. A photographer can photograph shore birds, raptors, waterfowl, song birds and all manners of feathered friends. Bring your long lens and sit for an hour or a day, you will not be disappointed.

If you're in the area visiting Fort Casey or nearby Coupeville, stop by to watch the ferries come and go, watch the fishermen, watch the birds or just relax and watch the day go by. Keystone Spit is a quiet respite from the more hectic Fort Casey and well worth a visit.

Safety Note. Please be careful when crossing the road from the beach area to view the birds at Crockett Lake. There are no crosswalks or protective barriers at this time for pedestrians. Crossing the road or walking on the shoulder can be very dangerous.

To get there.

On Whidbey Island from the north: Follow Highway 20 south to Coupeville and turn right on S Main Street. S Main Street turns into S Engle Road. Continue on S Engle Road past the entrance to Fort Casey State Park and the Keystone ferry terminal. Parking for the park is on your right just past the terminal and at the south end of the park.

On Whidbey Island from the South: Follow Highway 525 to the junction with Highway 20 (W Wanamaker Rd). Turn left and follow Highway 20 towards Fort Casey and the Keystone ferry terminal. Parking for the park will be on the left as the road turns north and closer to the ferry terminal.

Heidi's Hotspots: Olympic Peninsula: The Hoh Rainforest

Admittedly, the Hoh Rainforest is one of my favorite places on earth.

That's a BIG statement!

I have been to all manner of sights and locales and yet I can right now, right here tell you that my favorite place on earth is a big wet temperate rainforest just miles from the Pacific Ocean.

Yes. For me, the Arizona deserts, Utah Canyons, Canada's mountains all hold special places in my heart and dreams but my go-to happy place is the quiet yet frenzied world that is the Hoh.

Here you can be lost and found in the same breath. Exalt in the openness of nature and feel an overt claustrophobia. You can listen to the flute-like voices of elk with a percussion of dripping from moss and here is where you'll find the quietest inch. You can spend a lifetime visiting yet find something new tucked away among the most familiar. When you are lonely, the moss laden trees become fast friends.

Come here on an overcast day. Even with the thick overstory, sunlight streaming through the leaves can create harsh light and shadows on the scenery. An overcast day gives you soft light, no harsh shadows with blown out highlights. But finding a cloudy day shouldn't be too hard. With rainfall as much as 12 feet a year, there are plenty of grey days. So also bring something to protect yourself and your camera from the wet elements. Even when it's not raining, water drips off the curtains of moss.

If photographing in a forest is a little intimidating, try focusing on small forest vignettes. The Hoh is filled with so much life that the idea of simplifying your image at first mind boggling. There are huge trees everywhere you turn. How do  you create simplicity when there is so much in your viewfinder?

Well, start small with mushrooms and moss.

Look to your feet for tiny things growing and living there.

Find the patterns in the understory.

Point your camera straight up into the top story.

Use a wide angle to get as much in as possible but then use a telephoto to compress the elements together.

Set up your tripod for multiple exposures then blend them later.

Hand hold your camera with a slow shutter speed for a more impressionistic image.

I other words, play. I give you permission to just play with your camera while in the Hoh. Maybe you'll see why this place has become my favorite place.

To get there: From Forks, drive south on Highway 101 to the Hoh River Road. Follow the road to the end. There is a National Park Entrance Fee to access the Hoh Rain Forest.

For more information on visiting the Hoh and Olympic National Park, please visit their website.

Washington State Parks: Bottle Beach

Little Bottle Beach State Park. It holds so much in it's tiny package: history, scenery, wildlife. And it's all tucked away next to the highway along Grays Harbor. What's not to love?

On the site of Bottle Beach State Park once stood the community of Ocosta by the Sea - the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad was located here and a grand port had been in the plans. Hotels, churches, schools and industry sprung up in the area including a bottle company. But as it sometimes happens the railroad went somewhere else, the economy sunk and sediment along the shoreline made it difficult for large ships to moor. Sadly Ocosta by the Sea became no more.

As the town dwindled, nature came back. The marshes are filled with birds. Grays Harbor is one of the most important feeding areas for migratory shorebirds. Millions of birds have fed on invertebrates in the mud flats as they migrate north to their breeding grounds. It's estimated that about 20% of them can be found near Bottle Beach. Whew! That's quite a population for this little spec of land.

What about the scenery you ask? If the park is on 75 acres how much scenery can there be? And mud flats? Euw. But don't despair my landscape and scenery friends, the trail to the beach meanders through marshlands and you almost feel as if they could stretch forever. Grand mountain views? Who needs those when you have open skies and rugged land in front of you?

Continue to the beach where the skeleton of an old building remains. Skirt around the side to a wide open stretch of beach. When the tide is out, you can see the remnants of the pilings for the long docks that once stretched out into the bay creating wonderful lines towards the horizon. Walk out on the mud flats for ripples in the earth and almost hidden pockets of standing water. It's the feel of another world.

Bring your long lens for the birds and your imagination to take you back into yesteryear. This little park will not disappoint.

To get here drive highway 105 from Aberdeen along the south shore of Grays Harbor for approximately 15 miles. The parking lot is on the north side of the highway.

Washington State Parks: Joeph Whidbey State Park

In an age of exploration, a young man served with Captain Vancouver on his journey aboard the Discovery during the years of 1791-95. His adventurous spirit led him to explore the waters of Puget Sound with Peter Puget and later to circumnavigate the largest island in the Sound. Vancouver promptly honored him by naming the island after him: Whidbey Island. Joseph Whidbey returned to England and later became well-known as a Naval Engineer. The island still bears his name as well as a small state park near Port Orchard.

Although Joseph Whidbey is a relatively small state park, it's big on adventure. The park's 112 acres include forests, fields, marsh and saltwater shoreline. Your photographic opportunities abound.

Walk the forested trail to the wide open meadows. In the fall you'll have pastel fall colors in the trees and understory and don't forget to look at your feet for mushrooms. The spring brings woodland flowers and the fresh face of green.

The trail continues through a large meadow where birds flit from shrub to bordering tree. You'll come across some marshy areas where frogs perch at the side of the trail watching hikers pass by. Come in the fall and bring a bucket to pick blackberries while you wait for sunset on the beach.

You will not want to miss sunset from the beach. The shoreline overlooks waters from the Strait of Juan de Fuca and sunsets here are a grand finale for beautiful days. The beach is considered one of the best on the island. No matter if you agree with this statement or not, this little park is worth lingering and photographing.

Remember to bring your tripod and polarizing filter. The tripod will help you in the darker areas of the forest and as twilight approaches. The polarizing filter will cut the glare off leaves and water.

To get there from Highway 20 - driving North turn left on Swantown Rd, if driving South turn right. Follow Swantown Rd for 1/2 mile then turn right on Heller St. Continue on Heller St for 1 1/4 miles and turn left on NW Crosby Ave. The park will be on your right in approx 1 1/2 miles.

Read more about Joseph Whidbey and his explorations in the Northwest on the HistoryLink website.

Fort Simcoe, Washington State Park

Windswept plains, cavalry officers riding into the fort midst Native Americans. Sounds much like the opening scenes of a Hollywood movie. But this little corner of Washington isn't near Hollywood and this isn't a movie. This was life at Fort Simcoe in the mid 1800's. 

Driving out to Fort Simcoe felt like I was driving back in time. No not to 1850 but back to my college days in Wyoming. For me, there was always an air of history no matter where I went in Wyoming from the days before western cultures came to the cavalry and homesteaders. I had those same feelings driving through the plains of eastern Washington to get to remote Fort Simcoe. 

Driving past ranches and rural towns, you finally come to the old fort and it seems just a bit out of place. Where normally you would see utilitarian ranch homes and barns, here you find peaked gables of the Gothic Revival architectural style on the officer's quarters - stark white against the blue sky.

Five of the buildings are original - four of the officer's homes and the blockhouse. The other buildings in the park are reproductions. And all are picturesque. Between April and September, the officers' quarters are open to the public and furnished with period items. During the off-season, the park is still accessible, however the interior of the buildings are not. During the touring season, interpretive programs and re-enactments are offered.

The fort was built near natural springs and cottonwood trees flourish here. You can find birds and small critters in the shrubs and trees near the springs. Flowers bloom in the spring - both native and introduced plants.

And when you're exhausted from all the photo opportunities, lie down on the exercise yard and watch the clouds drift by and maybe get carried back into another time in history.

From Yakima, Take I-82/US 97 south to Lateral A Rd and turn right onto Lateral A Rd. Travel about 10 miles to Fort Rd and take a right. After approximately 12 miles, turn left on Fort Rd Extn. Follow Fort Rd Extn for 2 miles then turn left onto Signal Peak Rd. In approximately 5 miles turn right onto Fort Simcoe Rd. The park is on the left and is well signed.  

Yakima Sportsman, Washington State Park

Birds. Birds! BIRDS! This park is for the bird . . . watcher! And little wonder. Yakima Sportsman State Park is located in the flood plains of the Yakima River and contains ponds and marshes and all the things that birds love - like plenty of food, nesting, flying, paddling. Although this park rests in the suburbs of Yakima, it still has a sense of the wilderness. It's an oasis in an area known for its dry climate.

The Sportsman's Association of Yakima created this park to promote game management and preserve natural resources. The Association gifted the park to the State of Washington in 1956 and is now maintained as a camping park with fishing ponds, picnic shelters and trails plus lots of areas to bird-watch.

So what is there to photograph here? Well there's the birds. No matter what time of year you come to the park, you will find birds. As a wetlands area, it is a stop over for migrating birds, a breeding area for local birds and the ponds keep the air more temperate which attracts insects and the birds that eat them.

The ponds also lend themselves to photography. Even though there are homes right over the fence, they are well hidden by the woods that fill the boundaries. In fact, the only time I really ever notice homes is when I'm at the marsh overlook watching the Red Winged Blackbirds flit around the cattails. In fact, cattails abound here. Walk the trail around the kids' fishing pond and you will find cattail on one side of the trail and sage on the other. Talk about a variety for photography!

To get here: Drive to Yakima on I-82 and take the exit to Terrace Heights Way and turn East on Terrace Heights Way. Turn South onto University Pkwy then turn West onto Gun Club Rd to the park.

Come here for the birds, come here for the landscapes or come here for a relaxing weekend away. Yakima Sportsman will not disappoint.

Olmstead Place, Washington State Park

I really couldn't tell you how many times while driving through Ellensburg that I passed this little gem of a state park. I may have noticed the sign as I sped by at 70 miles per hour (ok, maybe a little more than that but don't want to incriminate myself), but couldn't say for certain. And if you've missed it as you were speeding down the interstate, slow down next time, pull off the highway and spend some time stretching your legs and your photographic eye. For photos are just waiting to be created here.

A little history: In 1875, the Olmsteads settled in the Kittitas Valley near a settlement that would become Ellensburg and began their lives as farmers in the territory of Washington. The family lived and worked the farm for nearly 100 years before gifting the farm to Washington State Parks and Recreation. Now visitors can wander through the 217 acre farm filled with farming implements, structures and history.

Also keep an eye on their schedule for special events and living history. I stopped by at the end of March to find a team plowing demonstration. Teams of draft horses and mules plowed the fields and their drivers stopped to pose for photos and answer questions. These days can be crowded but well worth the visit.

For your photographic pleasure, park at the main visitor center and park offices. The sheds here are filled with historic farm vehicles and tools, some more modern than others. There is a 1/4 mile trail along the Altapes Creek, lined with cottonwood trees and benches for quiet reflection in the shade. The trail leads to the original buildings of the homestead. Here you will find a treasure trove of antiques from the daily life of early pioneers.

Hours & Directions: The park is a day-use park and is open throughout the year, however tours are only available weekend from Memorial Day to Labor Day. To get there from I-90, take exit 115 for Kittitas and turn north on Main Street. Follow Main Street to Patrick Ave/Kittitas Highway. Follow Kittitas Hwy for approx 2 miles to N Ferguson Rd and turn left to the park.

And then the clouds parted . . .

What do you do to prepare your photographic eye prior to a day's photo trip, or a week's photo voyage? What are your sources for research? Do you pour over guidebooks? Read descriptions on travel blogs? Look at other photographers' works?

Admittedly, I will do all three. Not to copy the work of those before but to understand what to look for as I'm there. How does the light hit certain landmarks during different times of the day? If I know I want to be here at sunrise and there at sunset then I don't have to spend too much time trying to find the places I want to be. And if I'm travelling to photo excursion for just the day, I don't waste precious time finding the image with the light.

So, on a recent trip to Beacon Rock State Park on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, I flipped through images on google. I had been to Beacon Rock a few times before and climbed to the top of the famed rock. (A little history, the rock was named by Lewis & Clark on their journey west. The rocky thumb sticking up from the river's edge helped guide them along the river.) But I had never seen the rock from the water side of the park. Looking at the images on google, I realized that the river view would be amazing both in the morning light and again in the evening.

So the morning after I got to the park (after midnight, no more camping spots, slept in my car right next to the train tracks - oh yeah, I forgot about the trains), I hopped out of the car and looked eastward towards the lightening sky and saw along the horizon building clouds. Sigh.

Now would you go home after the research, the drive and the train disturbed sleep in your car? I hope your answer is, Heck No! And a good thing too. The weather report said partly cloudy and clouds blow in and out. So maybe, hopefully, all the stars will align and a break in the clouds will let the sun shine though and light the face of Beacon Rock.

I set up my camera on the mooring dock and waited. Talked to another photographer, and waited. Chatted with the fishermen waiting for their friends, and waited. Finally my bladder couldn't wait any longer and I walked back to the shore. Did my business. My dog Zillah did hers. Then we meandered over to the boat launching dock.

And as we got to the end of the dock . . . the clouds parted.

Walking in Enchantment

With names like the Hobbit Trail and Wind in the Woods Trail where you can find bird's nest fungus and witches butter fungus, Federation Forest State Park can be an enchanting place to visit. And, if like me, you had spent the previous day standing in snow for nearly 10 hours, and I do mean standing, waiting for navigation students to find their way through the woods then Federation Forest is also a perfect place to decompress.

Federation Forest consists of 619 acres stretching along Highway 410 and the White River. I've often zipped past the park as I'm heading to & from Mt Rainier and always think "I need to stop there." But never seem to.

Until now.

One of my resolutions this year was to visit Washington State Parks - wonderful little gems dotting our landscape. Often times we get too focused on our "big" parks: Mt Rainier, Olympic, North Cascades. We get focused on the grand landscape and the miles of glorious trails. But this year marks the centennial of the Washington State parks system and I wanted to devote a little time to our pretty little parks - well-loved by us but sometimes an after-thought as we drive by.

Looking for Trails to hike? Federation Forest has 12 miles of trails through big trees and along the river.

Looking for solitude? I saw a few people in the parking lot when I arrived and another photographer studying fungus on the Wind in the Woods trail. But as I set out on the Hobbit Trail, I had the forest, the birds, the streams and moss all to myself.

Worried about road noise? For most of my hike I was far enough away from the road to not hear the cars as they passed. I knew I was getting close to the 1/2-way point when I could once again hear traffic.

Looking for a little enchantment? Hike the Hobbit Trail and you will come across a hobbit village tucked away in the woods complete with gnomes and little blue dinosaurs. And then there's the moss. Moss everywhere - dripping from trees, covering the forest floor like a luxurious blanket, glowing in the sun.

Looking for raw nature? Ancient trees mixed with vine maples and sword ferns. Streams giggling through the exposed roots. It's nearly primeval.

My resolution is off to a good start. Won't you like to come explore with me?

Vision in Delirium

When my boss called in with the flu at the beginning of the year, I should have gone immediately for my flu shot. But I put it off. I knew it was going around. And I knew it was a nasty one.

So this past week I spent my time either in bed or on the couch. Cancelled my great weekend plans. And daydreamed about all the wonderful places I had been and places to go.

I smiled at the memories of shared adventures with friends, knowing they are the adventure buddies I can count on for future travels.

The weekend prior to my bedridden week, 3 of my buddies & I decided to snowshoe to the Big Four Ice Caves along the Mountain Loop Highway. A popular destination in the summer as it's an easy day hike for families becomes a stunning snowshoe in the winter. The cliff area of the ice caves can be very dangerous - in recent years there have been several accidents and at least one death from avalanches falling even in the later summer months. But it's the avalanches that create the ice caves. And the popularity of area has not diminished even with the dangers.

Our plan was to snowshoe from where the road is closed to just beyond the bridge over the Stillaquamish River. The snow pack for the day was pretty stable, but this area can be highly unpredictable so we decided to stay in the trees and not head up into the plateau at the base of the cliff.

The day was gorgeous. Blue skies and freezing temps. We were bundled up against the cold but wearing sun screen & sunglasses - always a great combination on a winter day. I love seeing the bright white of ice and snow against the blue Washington skies.

The road travels along the river in the trees with glimpses of the mountain peaks around the valley. We stopped often for pictures and to chat and then started again as the cold seeped through our many layers of clothing. And it was COLD! The moisture in the air had frozen along the river and coated everything in a feathery layer of hoar frost. At times it looked fantastical.

After we stopped briefly at the picnic shelter for lunch, we started out for the river through a marsh area. If we thought the hoar frost along the river was fantastical, the hoar frost here was other-worldy. It spread out like fern fronds inches from the snow & branches. It was a vision worth remembering.

The open air and views, the snow and sky, the walk and friends all worthy of reminiscing and thinking forward