Oyster Road

Let’s head out on an oyster shaped loop to find some succulents delicacies of the shallows of Hood Canal to either eat, photograph or just enjoy a day in your parks. This 78-mile trip will take you past some prime oyster gathering beaches plus a few farms and stores to buy these tasty bivalves-if you happen to show up in the wrong season or are unlucky in your harvest. And with any of these road-trips, there’s plenty of opportunity to photograph the beauty the state has to offer.

Just a note here that if you plan on harvesting oysters, check the WFWD for licensing, requirements, and seasons.

This is a road trip where the beaches are filled with the empty oyster shells of previous harvests for both human consumption and animal – racoons and gulls love slurping a raw oyster on the half-shell. When I come to these beaches for photographs, I look for scenics of hood canal as well as details of the beaches and textures of the oyster shells themselves – I use my shorter lens for these types of images. Because these beaches offer an abundance of food for other critters as well, be prepared with a long lens in your bag, just in case you can catch a gull lifting off to drop its find on the rocks below. Low tide is better for harvesting, but anytime is a great time for photography.

Our first stop along the way is Kitsap Memorial State Park, just north of Poulsbo on the eastern shore of Hood Canal. In the summer months, this park is popular with the wedding crowd and for good reason, the park is tucked into grand douglas-firs with views of Hood Canal and the Olympics beyond. Sunrise can be wonderful from here as the early morning sunlight reflects off the mountains. And sunsets aren’t too bad either. At high tide, the beach is almost non-existent but low tide exposes the treasures the waves conceal.

Next, we’ll cross the Hood Canal floating bridge to the little oft-forgotten Shine Tidelands State Park. Some think of this park as a little wayside, someplace with an outhouse for a quick bathroom break. And most might poo-poo the idea of this little beach of being photogenic, but I challenge you to look closer. To watch the eagles fly overhead. To watch the ducks swim in the marsh. To watch sunset and moonrise over Hood Canal. It is a small respite close to highway 104 yet peaceful.

We’ll head back out to highway 104 west to catch highway 101 south and our first stop along the way is Dosewallips State Park. With over 1000 acres to explore and 5 miles of beach front, this park is a destination for all adventurers. Oyster gathering is done on the beaches east of highway 101 – those beaches also hold sweeping views of Hood Canal and the Kitsap Peninsula. The shoreline here can be muddy and the marsh grasses evolved for the harsh conditions of saltwater habitat and show it by being coarse to the touch. The shoreline ripples along water’s edge to add rhythm to your images.

Once you tear yourself away from the flats of Dosewallips, travel south for 10 miles to little Triton Cove. The views aren’t expansive in this little boat put-in, but the beach is littered with oyster shells ready for a macro lens to work with textures and patterns. I can often get lost in these little details, but we have more parks to visit so let’s hop back into the car and continue south 29 miles to Potlatch State Park near the southern “hook” of Hood Canal and the Skokomish Indian Reservation. The term Potlatch comes from the of the indigenous people of the coastal Pacific Northwest and means a ceremonial feast where gifts are given and exchanged. And the gift of this park is the delicious oysters we are looking for. 

If you are not into harvesting your own oysters, stop in Hamma Hamma along the way at the oyster beds and restaurant. Or go a little further to Union to a few of the shops there.

The views from Potlatch are not as expansive as Dosewallips closer to the mouth of Hood Canal, but you will still find beauty in the landscape. The beach here is again muddy with rocks and oyster shells, perfect for beach details. 

One last park to visit as we drive around the hook of Hood Canal and through the town of Union. Just north of Union on highway 106 is Twanoh State Park. Because of it’s relative closeness to Bremerton, the oyster gatherers are often found along its shores. A few old CCC building s and long high docks add interest to your landscapes here and because we are now facing west, we have views of the southern Olympics across the water.

These parks have so much more to explore than just the shoreline and oyster beds. There is beauty here in all that the park holds. It’s easy to spend a day or a weekend along the beaches of Hood Canal.

Directions from Bainbridge Island: (Mileages are approximate)

To Kitsap Memorial State Park: From the ferry terminal, follow highway 305 through Bainbridge Island for 13 miles to merge onto highway 3 north just beyond Poulsbo. Drive highway 3 for 4 miles to turn left on NE Park St.

To Shine Tidelands State Park: Head back to highway 3 and turn north towards Hood Canal Bridge and cross the bridge in 3 miles – this gets you onto highway 104. As you get to the other side of the bridge, turn right to the park.

To Dosewallips State Park: Continue on highway 14 west. Take the exit (right exit) to Center Rd in 9.5 miles and head south to Quilcene and the junction with highway 101 in 8 miles. Follow highway 101 for 12 miles to the park. There are 2 entrances to the park. On the west side of the highway is the camp area and trails through the forest. On the east side of the highway is access to the shoreline and oyster gathering. 

To Triton Cove State Park:  Continue south on highway 101 for 8 miles. The entrance to the park is on the east side of the highway.

To Potlatch State Park. Back on highway 101 south, drive 20.5 miles to the park. The day use area is on the east side of the highway and camping is on the west side of the highway. As you are driving, you will go through the towns of Hamma Hamma and Hoodsport. Pick up oysters in Hamma Hamma and stop for ice cream and coffee in Hoodsport.

To Twanoh State Park: Continue south on highway 101 to the junction with highway 106 at Skokomish and head east towards the town of Union. There are a few additional places along this route to pick up oysters. Once on highway 106, it is 12 miles to the park. The campground is on the east side of the highway and the day use with oyster gathering is on the west side of the highway.

Gorge-ous, South

 When it comes to absolute beauty in this state, we don’t have to look very far especially when we live in the Puget Sound area and are surrounded by mountains and water. But let’s drive south again towards Portland but head east just as you get to Vancouver to drive Highway 14 through some pretty stunning scenery along the Columbia River. This great waterway of the Pacific Northwest starts in Canada at a series of glaciers called the Columbia Icefields then travels over 1200 miles to the Pacific Ocean. In its journey, the river winds its way through granite mountains of the Rockies and the channeled scablands of Eastern Washington before leisurely strolling through the cliffs of the Washington and Oregon border. 

The river has been a major thoroughfare throughout history from the indigenous peoples who used it for trade and food resource to modern cultures for trade and food resources. Hmm, not much has changed but the river and its course through history as well as its course through the land will forever have a mark on this nation.

This road-trip primarily is to admire and photograph all the beauty the state has to offer. We sometimes forget the gorge has another side to it, the north side, we are so focused on the beauty in Oregon and the dramatic waterfalls that attract worldwide attention. But drive highway 14 out of Vancouver and I think your heart will be won over. There are other stops along the way that will add to your photographs, but we’ll be focusing on the state parks.

And our first park is Beacon Rock State Park. If ever you’ve driven in the gorge you know the rock I’m talking about. An ancient volcanic plug that stands along as a beacon nearly 850 feet above the river. There’s no missing it. But did you know the park itself is 4400+ acres with hiking, biking, and horse trails? If you have the time hike to the top of Hamilton Mountain for views of the Columbia River, Mt Hood, and Mt Adams. From this prospect you can look down on Beacon Rock. Don’t have that kind of time? Then hike the trail – sections of which are bolted into the rock – to the top of Beacon Rock. Afraid of heights? There’s a lovely little ADA trail below Beacon Rock that takes you through meadow and forest. Spring brings out the colors of wildflowers while autumn turns the cottonwood leaves yellow. The camping park is open year-round and is quite the destination itself, but we’re on a road trip so let’s get back on the road and continue east 27 miles to Spring Creek Hatchery.

This park and the next are right in the “bottleneck” of the gorge where the winds never cease and the adventurous athlete soars. Spring Creek Hatchery is a day use park next to the hatchery which can be a fun visit. But when I stop here, I pull out my longer lens and make sure I have a fast shutter speed to capture windsurfers and kite-boarders playing in the wind and waves. The other thing to remember here is that this park looks due south and on sunny days can wreak havoc on your exposure. I try to make the exposure for the athlete and the water spray as they carve trails in the river. As these are the most important elements, I let the rest of the scene fall where is may.

Doug’s Beach, another 18 miles further on, is also a haven for windsurfers and kite-boarders. You also have a few more views of the landscape here, but if you want to capture some great action you will not be disappointed by either of these parks.

Once we’re tuckered out by all the action, just 7 ½ miles more and we come to beautiful Columbia Hills State Park and Dalles Mountain Ranch. The variety here can leave you breathless and I’m sometimes not sure where to start what with over 3600 acres to explore. Horsethief Butte towers over the park and Horsethief Lake (created when they built the Dalles Dam just down river). Let’s start on the south-side of the highway, closer to the river. When they built the dam, they ended up flooding a Native American settlement and the beautiful pictographs. The Army Corps saved several of the pictographs, chopping them out the rockface and relocating them at the park. An interpretive walk close to the river tells the story of the pictographs and the effort to save them. Again, let’s remember that it serves no benefit to judge past actions with today’s understanding.

Also in this area, we have clear access to the lake shore and any birds that might be gathered in the reeds. If we head east another mile, we get to the parking lot for Horsethief Butte and the trail there where you have views of the Columbia River and details of the vegetation of the dry side of the state. Look for smaller wildlife here and of course the birds in the basalt cliffs of the butte. Also look for rock climbers daring gravity.

On the other side of the highway from Horsethief Butte is a parking lot for the Oaks trail that winds through the meadows of Dalles Ranch filled with Arrowleaf Balsamroot and Lupine in the spring. You can also access the meadows from the historic ranch on the west end of the park. There is an interpretive walk here too of ranching life on the Columbia River with farm implements and out-buildings. It is easy to spend your day rambling in this park. 

But our last park on this trip is 19 miles down the road and a great place to rest for the night. Maryhill is a year-round camping park on the shores of the Columbia River. I like meandering around on the shores looking for little details to photograph but I have to say my favorite photo is of a little squirrel hopping through the picnic area. Most people associate the Stonehenge Memorial on the hill overlooking the park as part of the park, but it isn’t. Although, it is very close and a wonderful spot to capture the milky way on a summer’s evening.

Directions from Vancouver, WA (mileages are approximate):

To Beacon Rock: Start driving east on WA Highway 14 for 34 miles. There are two entrances to Beacon Rock State Park. The first one you come to is on the south side of the highway and leads to the boat launch and day-use area. There is a parking lot on the south side of the highway just past this entrance which is an easier access to the Beacon Rock trail. The other entrance for the camping area and trails is on the north side of the highway from this parking lot.

To Spring Creek Hatchery State Park: Continue east on Highway 14 for approximately 26 miles. The park is on the southside of the highway. Once you turn into the park, the day use parking lot comes before the parking lot to the hatchery.

To Doug’s Beach: Back on Highway 14, continue east for about 17.5 miles to Doug’s Beach. The parking is along the south side of the highway.

To Columbia Hills State Park: Again, head east on Highway 14 for 7 miles to Columbia Hills State Park. There are several entrances to the park. The first on you come to is on the north side of the highway and will take to you the ranch buildings of the Dalles Mountain Ranch – stay on Dalles Mountain Rd until you get to the buildings. The second entrance will be short distance beyond on the south side of the highway and leads to the boat ramp, camping, day use and the petroglyph exhibit. A little further along the highway is the parking are for Horsethief Butte on the south, then the Oak trails on the north.

To Maryhill State Park: continue on Highway 14 for 16 miles. Turn right (south) onto Highway 97, follow for 1.5 miles to the park.

Westward Ho! Part 2

Many heeded the call born out of an ideology that owning land would lead to independence and virtue which in turn would make the nation strong and through “Manifest Destiny” it was an American’s obligation to take to the edge of the continent our great experiment in liberty. Young men and old, women and children all migrated west across the great plains to the fabled riches of the west with dreams of farms, ranches, timber, minerals, and a chance for freedom to choose their own destiny. It was a dream worth dying for.

One-thousand settlers journeyed out from Missouri in 1843 to start the great migration of Euro-Americans heading west to find their small piece of freedom. Each year after, more wagon trains took the 4-6 month journey across the plains surviving illness, hunger, drought, and the violent storms of the American plains. Their journey took them through raging rivers and over treacherous mountain ranges to California and the Oregon Territory. Between 1841 and 1856, more than 350,000 settlers made their way to the west coast. Those early settlers were often alone in the wilderness, carving a homestead out of the thick forests of the Pacific Northwest and south into California. Their closest neighbors could be more than a day’s ride away or, more likely, they were the native Americans whose lands Euro-Americans settled upon.

This is a road trip that explores the experiences of these early settlers in the Pacific Northwest.

As settlers moved into the area, they were met by forests thick and vibrant with life. Douglas-firs and Western Red Cedars towering overhead with an understory of thick Salal and Sword Fern could give a person used to the more open forests of the east claustrophobia. And the consistent rains that nourish the plant life could give the most joyous person melancholy. That rich fertile land would make for a rich fertile farm. The timber from these massive trees would make millionaires out of paupers. Soon the land was tilled and planted. Homes and barns sprang up and the forest was kept at bay.

Just a few miles from I-5 is one of the few remaining stands of low land old growth forest in Washington at Lewis and Clark State Park. In an effort to preserve old growth forests, these 600 acres was set aside from development and continues to teach us about the Pacific Northwest forest ecosystem before settlers began to tame the wilderness. With over 5 miles of hiking trails and 8 miles of multi-use trails, there’s no shortage of opportunity to explore. I enjoy spending time on the Trail of the Deer and the Old Growth Forest Trail. Check out my tips on photographing forests.

Just a few miles from Lewis and Clark State Park stands a small unpretentious cabin, a replica of the home of John R. and Matilda Jackson. The original Jackson house is thought to have been the 1^st Euro-American structure built north of the Columbia River. John called the farm The Highlands and together he and Matilda raised 7 children in their modest home. They would soon come to find that on the frontier, a home isn’t just a home. The Highlands would become a way station along the Cowlitz Road between Oregon City and Olympia, a post office, hotel, tavern, grocery store and courthouse. John himself was more than a husband, father and farmer – he became a sheriff, assessor, tax collector, territory representative and a justice of the peace. To make civilization work in the wilderness, one had to wear many hats.

The park is small but with plenty of opportunity to photograph the cabin among the trees. Look for the small details of the building materials – while the cabin is a reconstruction of the original building, much of the techniques and materials represent what was used in the 1840’s to 1850’s. Tours of the cabin can be arranged in advance by calling 360-864-2643.

Our last park looks at how fervently migrants believed in their dreams and the lengths they would go to fulfill them. This story starts with a young man and his excitement over his family and their religious followers’ decision to move to the fertile lands of the Willapa Hills in what is now SW Washington. Willie hoped to drive one of the oxen teams across the prairie and worked so hard he gained the respect of the rest of the group and was awarded the lead oxen team. Sadly just a few weeks before departure, Willie became ill and died. But no one wanted to leave Willie behind, so his father built a casket lined with lead, filled it with alcohol and Willie’s corpse, placed the casket in the lead wagon and traveled across the plains into the Oregon Territory. Once they arrived at this place that Willie dreamt of living, they finally laid him to rest.

Willie’s actual gravesite is inaccessible, but a wayside along the highway tells his story – and the story of the thousands of migrants who believed that their destiny could be written in the promise of land in the frontier of a young nation writing its own destiny.

Directions from I-5 north or south: (mileages are approximate)

To Lewis and Clark State Park: Take exit 68, highway 12 E, and turn east. In 3 miles, turn right onto Jackson Highway. In 2 miles, enter Lewis and Clark State Park. The day use area will be on your right and the parking area here is seasonally closed. On your left is the Environmental Learning Center and the multi-use trails.

To Jackson House State Park Heritage Site: Head back to highway 12 along the Jackson Highway. In 2 miles the park will be on your right. (You passed the cabin on your way to Lewis and Clark State Park).

To Willie Keil’s Grave State Park: Head back to highway 12 and turn left towards I-5. Merge onto I-5 northbound. Take exit 77, highway 6, west toward Pe Ell. Continue west on highway 6 for 23 miles. Look for the pull-out with the interpretive sign on your left.

Vulcan's Lair

Vulcan’s Lair is a fun add on to your drive to Portland and beyond as both park are within 20 miles of I-5 and offer wonderful examples of wild geologic forces that built the world and laid foundation for our beautiful state. Of the nearly 20 volcanoes that run parallel to the coast in the cascade range extending from California to southern British Columbia, Washington is home to 5: Mt Baker, Glacier Peak, Mt Rainier, Mt St Helens, and Mt Adams. But according to geologist Nick Zenter, there is plenty of evidence that these 5 are the youngest in a family of even more ancient volcanoes. This road trip introduces you to the most recent and most active of all the cascade volcanoes and one very old eruption.

So, head south with me and we’ll pull off the highway near Castlerock to visit Seaquest State Park and views of Mt St Helens. The main portion of Seaquest is across the road from where we’re exploring which is the Silver Lake Mt St Helens Visitor Center and nature trail. If you have the time, the lush forest across the street (easy access by an underground tunnel), is well worth the visit. But on this trip, we’re here to see volcanoes.

Five dollars will get you in to see the exhibits and other programs in the visitor center. Displays of the history of the area before and after the 1980 eruption discuss the interactions between humans, the fertile lands in the area, and the often-disruptive peak. I like heading down into the model volcano to understand more about the geology and ingredients needed for an eruption like the one that occurred 38 years ago. Stop in the theater for a short movie about the eruption and the destructive forces before heading out to see the (for now) quiet volcano.

From the visitor center, make your way towards the lake and a looped trail that meanders along boardwalks connecting small islets in the marshy areas of the lake. From the board walk and trail you will have views of the now collapsed mountain – if it’s a clear day. Create depth in your images by placing the marsh vegetation in the foreground, find interesting lines or unique foliage that help lead the viewer’s eye to the often-snowy mountain. There are several good spots to photograph the mountain and you walk along the path.

Once done with the boardwalk trail, hop back in your car to continue south to the little town of Battle Ground and the little nearly perfect circle of a lake there. 7700 years ago, a cluster of volcanoes in Oregon erupted and in the aftermath of the explosion a lake formed in the leftover caldera. Crater Lake is considered to be one of the bluest clearest lakes in North America. And is well worth the drive to see it. But just north of Vancouver, WA you can see a miniature caldera lake even older than Crater Lake.

In an event called the Boring Lava Volcanics, the eruptions left a small caldera at the foot of the cascades about 100,000 years ago. The caldera filled with water to become a miniature Crater Lake except without the blue water and Wizard Island. But the depression is a sweet surprise in the forested landscape. Several trails encircle the lake to let you experience the terrain left over from the more active volcanic periods. The trails closer to the lake edge hike past volcanic rocks, remnants of the eruptions so long ago. Higher, on the crater rim, the forest is thick with vine maples that in the late fall bathe the park in a yellow glow. Stop long enough for a picnic on the lake’s shore and watch families fish from the dock before heading on your way.

Directions from Olympia (mileages are approximate):

To Seaquest State Park: Drive south on I-5 for 55 miles to exit 49 and highway 504 east. Head east for 6 miles to the park. The Mt Saint Helens Visitor Center and boardwalk are on the south side of the highway. The campground and wooded hiking trails are on the north side of the highway. There is a pedestrian underpass that links both sides of the park.

To Battle Ground Lake State Park: Leave Seaquest Park and head west on highway 504 back to I-5 south. Continue on I-5 south for 38 miles to exit 11, highway 502 east to the town of Battle Ground. Continue on highway 502 for 6 miles to town and drive through town. Turn left on NE Grace Ave. In ½ mile turn right on NE 10^th St and continue on NE Heisson Road which turns into NE 244^th St then then NE Palmer Road. After all that, turn left on NE 249^th St and the park.

Westward Ho! Part 1

As we remember back through our childhood history lessons and the Euro-American migration west crossing the Mississippi Rivers, through the great plains and over the Rocky Mountains, you might recall that there were basically 4 stages of population influx into Indian lands.  First, we saw trappers and miners exploring the wilderness. As interest in settling the west grew, forts were built to help tame the wilderness and protect the settlers from the Native Americans whose homelands they took. Homesteaders followed closely on the heels of the army, they built towns that would support their agrarian business. Finally the great iron roads of the railroad barons began crossing the plains bringing in a greater number of Euro-American settlers and the wilderness of the west was considered tamed.

It was a time of great changes and great troubles as the accomplishments of one people did not benefit all people. Looking at history comes with its own challenges but a historian friend of mine often reminds me that it is a trap with no clear answers or escape to judge yesterday’s actions with today’s sensibilities. All we can really do is observe and report, watch trends and tendencies with the hope of learning from the past and not passing judgment.

Fort Simcoe was built in 1856 near a fresh spring used as a gathering place for the Yakama Indians. The translated name for the area means bubbling water. I can imagine trappers introducing the Yakama Nation to Euro-Americans here. But it is the fort that visitors come to see, and right now I have no proof that ever occurred. The fort was originally built to keep the peace between the native people and settlers and this fertile area was coveted by both populations. So the army being the army, settled the matter and built a fort. Once the treaty between the Yakama and United States was ratified in 1859, the army abandoned the fort to the Bureau of Indian Affairs and it became a controversial boarding school for Yakama children. It’s a hard history to understand, but the beauty of Fort Simcoe will show you why it was a treasured place for the Yakama people.

The fort sits on a hill overlooking the fertile lands of the Yakima River Valley. While most of the buildings are reconstructed – the officer’s quarters and a block house a distance from the main fort are original. Enlisted barracks, jails, block house, and interpretive center are reconstructed in the construction techniques of the time. The Officer’s Quarters are styled in Gothic Revival with high pitched dormers to add a perfect contrast to the rolling hills of Eastern Washington. You can also explore the officer’s quarters and the park has created styled vignettes in each of the rooms.

I like focusing in on the details of the buildings and construction techniques. Try to record the details that help record the era. The vignettes in the officer’s quarters are blocked off as in most historical homes but I’ll use a longer lens and a high ISO to zoom in on the settings and furnishings.

A mile-long trail around the park takes you through shrub steppe and oak forest, giving you an idea of what the land may have looked like before Euro-Americans settled here.

We’ll next drive 72 miles north and a few years beyond Fort Simcoe to 1875 and Olmstead Place Historical State Park to photograph life on a frontier homestead. The Olmsteads settled along the Altapes Creek in Kittitas Valley. Their modest cabin soon grew into storage and animal sheds. As the prosperity through cattle grew in the region so did the Olmsteads. The homestead now includes a pioneer cabin, original out buildings, a more modern barn and house, plus a heritage garden filled with colorful flowers.

The out buildings are filled with agricultural implements from the 19^th and early 20^th centuries while the cabin is filled with home making supplies so the visitor can imagine life on the farm on the frontier. Use whatever lens you’re comfortable with and look for patterns and textures in the details.

We’ll need to speed forward a few years to 1909 and 35 miles west to the Chicago, Milwaukee, St Paul and Pacific Railroad South Cle ElumRail Yard – I just call it the South Cle Elum Rail Yard. As Railroads began to cross the expanse of our nation, a greater number of Euro-Americans made the trek to cities large and small to open libraries, schools, and businesses not entirely dependent on the agrarian culture. The beginning of the industrialization of the west began – very few areas of the west were considered frontier.

Now the South Cle Elum Rail Yard is managed by the Cascade Rail Foundation in partnership with Washington State Parks. It is what is called an affiliated site as it has been preserved through funds and administration of the Washington State Parks Commission. The Milwaukee Road is now a mostly paved trail  - the Palouse to Cascades Trail - stretching from North Bend to Vantage with plans to extend the trail when possible.

But our focus is on the old depot. South Cle Elum became a division point where locomotives were serviced and crews switched on and off. Passengers and freight could also board or depart the trains in the points. A short interpretive trail circles a meadow where you can see some of the old foundations of structures needed to run a depot such as the roundhouse and water tank. The depot is open with exhibits and stop by Smokey’s Bar-B-Que next door in the depot for dinner to end your day.

Directions from Yakima, 106 miles between parks

To get to Fort Simcoe from Yakima: Drive south on I-82 for 7.5 miles to Lateral A Road. Turn right and follow Lateral A Rd for 10 miles to Fort Road. Turn right on Fort road and follow to White Swan in 14 miles. Turn Left on Signal Peak Road then another right onto Fort Simcoe Road. The park will be on your left.

Fort Simcoe to Olmstead Place: Go backwards from the above directions and pass through Yakima on I-82 heading north until the Thrall Road exit just before the junction with I-90. Turn left onto Thrall Road and another left onto Number 6 Road. In 4 miles, turn right onto Kittitas Hiway and follow to the park on your right.

Olmstead Place to South Cle Elum Railyard: Head back out to Kittitas Highway and turn left, follow into Ellensburg to Canyon Road. Turn left on Canyon Rd then another left onto I-90 westbound. In 25 miles, take exit 84 from I-90. Turn right onto Oakes Ave in Cle Elum follow to 1^st Ave then turn Left. Make another left onto S Cle Elum Way. Follow S Cle Elum way into South Cle Elum then turn right onto Madison Ave. Turn left onto 6^th and another right onto Milwaukee Ave. The depot and park will be on your left.

Fall into Northwest Foliage I

As Labor Day rolls past my calendar, my mind turns to thoughts of Autumn. The season doesn’t officially start for another few weeks, but I start thinking of pumpkin spice breves, school supplies, fogy mornings giving way to crisp sunny days, and fiery fall foliage.

Leaves begin to tarnish in the high alpine zones of our Pacific Northwest Mountains in August emphasizing a short rowing season where just a month prior the meadows were exhibiting the fertile vibrancy of mountain meadows speckled with pinks, yellows, and purples of wildflowers. Bees and mosquitoes fill the air with ever-present buzzing. Birds sing from the trees and deer nibble on the plant life. The colors turn red and gold in August as the air quiets. Deer are migrating to fresher fields leaving the meadows to marmots and pika gathering stores for the long winter ahead of them.

Summer holds on for another month in the Puget Sound lowlands. Big leaf maples start yellowing in September and the vine maple secluded in the evergreen forests become ablaze in October. Cooler days and more often then not, overcast skies. If you remember your 4 F’s – the subjects best suited to overcast days – forests are one of the F’s. With cloudy skies, you get less harsh shadows, and fewer blown out highlights – in general, more pleasing images without a lot of post processing headaches. You will also need to make sure you grab your tripod; cloudy days mean less light through the lens so often slower shutter speeds – which can be used for fun creative effects.

As you walk through the parks on each of these trips, look for branches of leaves extending across the trunks of conifers or into the scenery. Open your aperture wide to capture just a single leaf in focus with a splash of color in the background. Look for fallen leaves in the trail, on rocks, on ferns, or anywhere really. Grab your macro equipment and focus in on the veins of a leaf or head out after a rain and compose images with rain drops hanging onto the edge. Slow your shutter down and play with creative zooms and pans. Are you out and about while the sun is shining? Don’t be afraid to turn your lens towards the sun and capture leaves glowing with backlit wonder. Your images are only limited by the amount of daylight you have to play in.

This road trip takes you to 4 parks in the Enumclaw area that have a nice variety of forests for your creativity and pleasure.

First we’ll go to Kanasket-Palmer State Park along the Green River near the outflow of the Green River Gorge. Hike the trails along the river shore for views of the Green River Gorge. Rafters and kayakers are often seen drifting past on the current; their colorful boats are a wonderful punctuation on grey days. Look for fallen leaves along the river’s shore – here is a nice area to practice long exposures composing for the stillness of a leaf on a rock with blurred water surrounding the stationary subject.

From there, head to Nolte State Park. This little lake can often be overlooked as a photographic destination but we’re here to shatter those perceptions. A visit in the fall will have you walking through golden vine maples, their leaves drifting to the ground like vibrant snowflakes. Take the time to meander along the mile long trail around the lake. On sunny days point your camera to the sun for leaves that seem to be glowing from within.

Our next stop is to Flaming Geyser State Park. While the namesake of the park – a gas pocket burning above ground – is pretty much gone, the forest of big leaf maples will hold your interest as you hike the trail to the bubbling geyser. As the leaves fall into the grey sulfur mud they sparkle with color. Spend some time exploring the marshes near the parking lot for birds and wild critter settling in for winter.

Finally we’ll drive out highway 410 to Federation Forest State Park along the White River. With over 9 miles of trails, your adventure here can be as long as you want to make it. Start with the interpretive trail near the Catherine Montgomery Interpretive Center. Vine maple grow in abundance here and offer a bright contrast against the heavy bark of douglas-fir trees.

With Enumclaw as the hub for your road trip, make sure you stop at one of the fine restaurants for lunch to refuel your adventure.

Directions from Enumclaw - 40 miles between parks

To Kanasket-Palmer State Park: From Highway 410 in Enumclaw take 284th Ave SE heading north out of town. In a mile and a half the road turns into Veazie-Cumberland Rd SE. Continue to follow Veazie-Cumberland Rd SE as it turns into Cumberland-Kanasket Rd SE, just after Nolte State Park. After Nolte State Park, travel another 2.3 miles to Kanasket Palmer State Park Rd, turn left and drive to the day-use parking lot near the river.

To Nolte: Travel back along Cumberland Kanasket Rd SE towards Enumclaw and turn into Nolte State Park at 2.3 miles.

To Flaming Geyser State Park: Return towards Enumclaw via Veazie Cumberland Rd SE, turn right on 392nd St. which turns into SE 400th Way. After 2 miles, turn right onto State Route 169. Stay on State Route 169 for 3.3 miles then turn left on SE Green Valley Rd. Turn left into the park at 2.8 miles.

To Federation Forest State Park: Return to Enumclaw via State Route 169. Head east on Highway 410 for 15 miles to arrive at Federation Forest State Park.

Then there's Plan B

Plan A:

It's my sister's birthday and we decide to gather our gear and hoof it out Eagle Creek in the Columbia Gorge. Check another trail off Kristi's bucket list, sleep under the Pacific Northwest sky, and shake out the cobwebs.

Eagle Creek is the most traveled trail in the Columbia Gorge - for good reason. While you will not have summit views, you will hike through a river canyon with moss covered walls, towering big leaf maples, fern-lined trails and 5 named waterfalls (and dozens of smaller unnamed falls). Most who hike the trail go in about 2 miles to see Punchbowl Falls. Others continue on to travel through Tunnel Falls - the trail is high on a cliff and they drilled a tunnel behind the falls to hike through. Stunning but not for those who have a fear of heights.

Even though it's highly traveled, it is so very worth experiencing. So it is on my sister's bucket list.

We invited our friend Evie, who will be joining us on our John Muir trip. Evie brought along her husband. I brought along Zillah.

The day wasn't shaping up to be perfect like the weather reports read, but we had faith the rain wouldn't start falling until we set up camp. We weren't 2 miles in when we needed to get our rain gear out and I looked at Zillah, already soggy and thought sharing a tent with her would not be good for either of us. After a quick consensus, we turned tail and hoofed it back to the car.

Plan B:

A waterfall tour of the gorge with short little hikes.

Our first stop was to Starvation Creek Falls for lunch. Perfect! The rain hadn't yet reached the area so we enjoyed the sun glistening through the new green foliage overhead. The new leaves sparkled in the sun. We left there just as the rain hit us and traveled back to Horsetail Falls. Then on to Multnomah Falls where we walked up to the overly crowded bridge and then bought Kristi a birthday ice cream.

Next stop Bridal Veil Falls where we stopped to photograph the wildflowers along the way. The sun began to peak out again, but we weren't too upset about that - we were having fun. The hike around the lower loop of Latourell Falls had us all giddy. We each saw something exciting to photograph and investigate. On up to Vista House to see the view, we noticed the clouds looked awful dark back the way we had come. Our last stop on Plan B was the Portland Women's Forum at Chanticleer Point for one more view. Just as we got there, the sun peaked through the clouds to light up Vista House. We congratulated not on the pretty picture though - we congratulated ourselves on calling it quits and avoiding the dark band of rain clouds on the horizon.

The People You Meet

Several years ago I sat in on a talk given by National Park Historian Alfred Runte while at Mt Rainier National Park. He spoke of the treasures that our National Parks are for us – not only do they protect our wilderness, our history and our culture. They are meeting places of the world where we can meet people from other cultures and share in the experience we might not have otherwise shared. Our National Parks have the ability to bring people together.

I was reminded of his talk recently while on a trip to the San Juan Islands to visit a couple of Washington State Parks and the San Juan Islands National Historical Park.

I first met John and Louise, a retired couple who now live on San Juan Island near Friday Harbor. We met while walking around the prairie at American Camp of San Juan Island NHP. John built the white picket fence surrounding the old parade grounds. He had worked for both the park service and forest service in his time and Louise had built the reputation of always ready for adventure. We chatted about the park, bicycling and what views could be seen on the loop trail I had chosen. It saddened me to part with them but as I watched them walk along the trail, I smiled at having met them.

Later in camp, I met Rainier and his wife who had decided to go on a road trip with their Prius and, wanting to save money, were experimenting with sleeping in the back of the car. They slept very well (it was the larger Prius). They had travelled from California to Washington visiting friends and family along the way. She informed me that her daughter runs the Driftwood Inn in Yachats, Oregon – so if you’re ever in town I understand all of the food is made from scratch including the bread.

It was just a chance meeting with Marly while we walked to get water in Moran State Park. She and her friend had hiked in Obstruction Point Park that day while I spent some time at the top of Mt Constitution. She asked about the view as they were headed up the next day. Of course it had been a wonderful view and at sunset the clouds parted enough for Mt Baker to show herself. And in the last light of the day the clouds took on a look of pink cotton candy clinging to the mountains slopes. The next morning, she gave me a packet of dried vanilla leaf because my story of the cotton candy clouds touched her so.

To end my solitary week, I spent the weekend at the Mountaineers Lodge at Mt Baker for an artist and photo retreat. A bit of a shock to my system when I am surrounded by 60 people who are all creative in some way. There was Erwin whose photography I’ve admired for some time. Brooke whose abstract plein-air paintings and exuberance sparked my imagination. Watercolor masters from Canada and plein-air painters from Washington shared their work all weekend.

And finally Nancy who we both realized may know the same Marcia and we laughed at the small world and our interconnectedness. A community where we didn’t know existed.

Waking up Early

The alarm cut through my dreams, a hot knife against my unconscious meanderings.

I looked blearily at my alarm and wondered why I would ever think the tinkled chimed and bird sounds would make a pleasant awakening.

Snooze.

No sooner had I closed my eyes than the alarm clattered in to my dreams like an unwelcome drunken guest.

Snooze!

But I laid in my bed staring at the ceiling debating whether I really wanted to get up and drive for 2 1/2 hours for the possibility of a sunrise.

After several minutes I decided no, I would sleep in, turned off my alarm, and snuggled deeply into my blankets. Then my hand was over the edge of the bed, picking up the pants I had deposited there the night before. First one leg, then the next. My shirt, shoes, hat, camera bag and I was out the door with car keys in hand.

Without thinking, I adjusted myself for the drive and sped off down the dark roadways. My only thought as I progressed was not to speed too much, the highways are lonely at 4:30 on a Sunday morning and I didn't want a ticket. A little over an hour later I was topping off the gas tank and grabbing a gas station coffee to keep myself company.

The air was filled with water, a fog that thickened and dispersed as I drove past farms and trees and finally started climbing towards the volcano. In Seattle we call Mt Rainier The Mountain, Mt St Helens The Volcano.

I was hoping to get sunrise from the Castle Lake Overlook, looking southeast at the volcano, color behind the snowy flanks and crater. But I would have to get above the fog.

Elevation marker 1,000 feet - fog. Keep going,
Elevation marker 2,000 feet - light fog, can see clouds, but no breaks in the clouds. Keep going.
Elevation marker 3,000 feet - clouds, and there are breaks in the clouds, maybe - no stars. Keep going.

As I rounded a corner there in front of me shone a sliver of the moon, shining like a beacon for me to follow. No stars, but there was the moon. This was going to be a good drive. I pulled into the overlook just after 6:30 as the sky was lightening on the horizon, and the clouds began to subtly blush.

Compose, shutter, compose, shutter, compose, shutter until the color faded. I listened to the coyotes howl in the distance.

I drove onto the Coldwater Visitor Center on the ridge overlooking Coldwater Lake. The Visitor Center is open limited hours on weekends during the winter. My destination was the bench below the Visitor Center with a view of the volcano peeking out from behind a ridge. Elk meandered through the meadow below me and the clouds blushed again. I played again with compositions before the color faded.  I watched as a lenticular cloud built up around the crater rim, looking like a clouded comb-over. I moved along.

Heading back down the highway, I stopped at the Elk Rock Overlook as the clouds behind the volcano began to yellow from the morning sun and the volcano's comb-over smoothed itself into a wig.

Waking up early, mystery and loveliness happen in the infant hours of the day.

Cataldo Mission

On a hill overlooking the Coeur d'Alene River and valley sits the oldest building still in use in Idaho. A mission built by the Coeur d'Alene Indians after they journeyed east to find medicine men in black robes and carrying spiritual books. And the black robes, Jesuits, came. Originally it was built along the St Joe River, but the area was prone to flooding, so the Jesuits found a new home for what was named the Mission of the Sacred Heart. The mission became a place of worship and learning for the Coeur d'Alenes and later a wayside for miners and settlers.

The mission is now an Idaho state park and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

I had the opportunity to visit the mission on a recent road trip to Montana. I had been driving past the park for several years and thought "I should stop in and see what this is all about." But I always felt too rushed to stop, which is silly since I like to take road trips so I don't feel rushed and can stop by little wayside gems like these.

This trip though, as I drove past to get to my destination in Montana, I told myself that on the way home I will stop. And so I did.

After watching the informative video and meandering through their exhibits, I made my way in the mid-day heat to the mission and parish house on the hill. It took the Coeur d'Alene 3 years to build the mission with the materials they had on hand - not a single nail was used in the construction. The chandeliers were made from tin cans and the wallpaper was either cloth from the Hudsons Bay Company or newspapers with painted designs in blue. The blue paint was actually stain made from crushed huckleberries.

You could almost feel the love in the craftsmanship of the Coeur d'Alene - the hand hewn flooring, the cut tin, the carvings on the alter. I laid on my back admiring the colors of the ceiling, the large center panels stained in huckleberry juice. Such care for an adopted religion that, for better or worse, brought education and civilization to the frontier and beyond.

The mission and parish house are simple buildings built on on a hill that was at one time beyond the edge of civilization. Now an interstate runs past it leading cars and people to other places at high speeds.

So while on your next trip, why don't you slow down for an hour or two and visit a quiet wayside for history or nature or for peace.

The Grip

In a recent blog post, I spoke of iconic images. An image that defines a place or an experience.

Iconic images can also define a sport. The images of the human body pushing beyond our understanding of its limits to accomplish a desired goal. Michael Jordan stretching through the air for a slam dunk - an image so iconic the silhouette is on every advertisement for the athletic shoes that bear his name. You can see it in your mind right now.

I wasn't out to find an iconic image when I started hiking around Smith Rock State Park, the rock climber's mecca in central Oregon.

I've been fascinated with rock climbers for years.

I'll often fantasize that I am climbing rocks and boulders along these sleek, toned and tanned specimens of humanity. Then I look in the mirror, try a push up or two and then pick up my camera and trekking poles again. it's good to fantasize.

I figured I would try at least to make a few images of rock climbers.

One problem with photographing rock climbing when you're not a rock climber is that you are often stationary on the ground and behind and below the climbers. You capture a lot of back and butts. But once in a while you get lucky and find a side view of a climber or a profile as they search for their next hold.

And that's what I was photographing, backs and butts and the occasional profile. I was contemplating where I could move for better framing when a couple of men showed up, helmet-less with t-shirts and cargo shorts. With efficiency, they dropped their gear bags, harnessed up and one started scaling the wall. I watched in admiration (honestly, they were the sleek, toned and tanned human specimens I so admire).

Climber's arm reached out for a hold. I watched as muscle and sinew stretched under his skin, tanned to match the wall he was climbing an knew. I focused only on his forearms as they guided him up the wall.

This for me is the iconic image of rock climbing - the beauty of a body in its natural element, becoming the sport to excellence in movement.

Chasing my Tent

It's windy in the Inland Northwest. That wonderful area of Washington and Oregon that is high in sunshine and low in rain. We are talking prairies plateaus, deserts, and sagebrush. The wind can whip through the landscape as if scouring the land of any ability hold forest roots and create a nice wind block. Even when trees are rooted in the soil, they sway in the wind, bending to it's will.

It was this wind that I traveled into on my recent road trip through Eastern Oregon. A wind so strong, it felt as if it might suck the moisture from the soil.

My 1st night was spent in the Columbia River Gorge. Known for it's winds that attract sail-boarders and wind surfers from around the world, I should have expected the wind swirling around the wind-breaks in the campground.

But there I was staring at the wind - looking at it as it pressed against my face as if I could stare down the gusts. I was trying to put up my tent. I sighed and started the task, in the wrong order - stake down first THEN put in the poles. I however, erected the tent 1st and then tried staking it down. I barely had the stake in the ground when a gust happily snatched the tent away from me and started dribbling it like a ball across the lawn. I took off at a run to steal my tent back and played tug of war with the wind back to my tent-site to finally get it secured into the ground.

My second bout with wind came as I was driving through the Malhuer National Wildlife Refuge south of Burns, OR. The winds huffed & puffed against my car from the west. My car labored to move forward and between gusts shot forward in it's freedom. I the distance I saw a dust cloud stretching from a plowed field across the highway. I have driven through dust storms before and smoke from forest fires - I never enjoyed them as your sight is limited even farther than most fog I had grown up with in the Snohomish River Valley. I soon entered the cloud and my heart immediately began racing. "Holy SHIT!" No visibility. None. if I continued I would crash and die. If I stopped, someone would crash into me & I would die. But the wind, being fickle, lifted the dust cloud enough to keep me moving forward. My heart continued to beat fast as I raced beyond the dust cloud to my next destination . . . and more wind.

I have enjoyed images of the Alvord Desert for a couple of years and wanted to see it for myself, so my road trip of course included a stop here and hopefully I'd be able to catch star trails and a tranquil desert sunrise. What I get was wind gusts coming across Steens Mountain that jostled and shoved my car all night. I set up my camera to try & catch  the last light of day on the clouds that hung over Steens Mountain to the west. But when I turned my back to grab a filter from the car, a gust pushed the tripod with camera over into the cracked & crusted soil. Damn! My camera is already held together with pink duct tape! but the camera was fine. The tripod however, the one I borrowed from my boss, was broken. I had the pink duct tape stowed in my car and quickly tried my best to stabilize the head, but any ability for real long exposures for the rest of the trip was gone. No star trails. No cotton candy clouds in the sky. No silky waterfalls. And I had to figure out a way to apologize to my boss.

My morning project, I wanted the sun peeking over the distant hills. When I woke up, clouds screened out the horizon. But I watched as the sun rose behind the clouds and I was able to make the image above. I stood between the worst of the gusts and the camera & tripod. Even with the issues I experienced or maybe because of them I am just as happy with this image than if everything had gone according to plan.

Icons

What do you think of when you think of iconic images when you about to head of on a trip? Do you think of those images that describe the "Place?"

The view from Kerry Park on Queen Ann Hill of Seattle with the Space Needle in the foreground and Mt Rainier in the background?

Yosemite Valley with Half Dome looming at the far end?

A palm tree shading the beach on Hawaii?

How about an image that describes the experience?

Several years ago while I was on a road trip, my first in the southwest and on my own after getting married, I was driving along a highway through the mountains of Southern Utah. Snow, blown by the wind against my windshield, made me wonder why I was out here in March. It looked damned cold outside and I had several more nights in a tent before heading home. I was trying my best to look at the sights around me without becoming a traffic hazard, when I viewed this little abandoned cabin set back in the woods.

I suddenly became that traffic hazard I was trying to avoid being. I made a u-turn right in the middle of the highway (luckily it was a lonely stretch of highway).

That cabin became the meaning of my trip. If I took no other image during my drive, I would have been happy. There was a loneliness to the cabin that described what I was feeling at the time. And yet there was a protective encirclement of trees, a safety of sorts for the cabin. And I knew there was one for me too.

Since that lonely trip so long ago, I have gone through several life changes. A divorce, financial hardship and a severe bout of depression had taken their toll. Through it all though, I could get lost in my viewfinder to see the good and beautiful in the world.

It was time for another road trip.

I chose Eastern Oregon, a long time favorite destination. This time I was going to a few old faves (John Day Fossil Beds, Bend) and a few new places (Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Smith Rock State Park). A week on the road, exploring and photo-ing. Just me and the turtle.

I looked forward to the time alone. The time to think. The ability to go where I wanted, when I wanted. Sing badly at the top of my lungs.

I turned onto this road early one morning while driving through southeast Oregon. It was straight, cutting through the prairie like a knife and seemed as if no one was there with me.

I loved the lonely, the silence. I loved the straight road leading me on, beckoning me to move forward to something new and something comfortable. The road and the image above became the icon for my trip.

The image below is the cabin I shot so many years ago in Utah.

Inventory Trip #2

Northern California, 12/14-12/18/09

My second trip for work in the DYNW Great Inventory Count was through Northern California with co-worker Amanda. We'd be heading to some of my favorite places in North Cali and meeting some great people who work with us.

Our first day was spent on the "big loop" around Lassen National Park taking counts of our sites in Lassen National Forest. I love Lassen NP, has all the cool stuff of Yellowstone and none of the crowds. The gateway communities for the park sometimes forget it's there. While that's a shame for the splendid beauty of the park, it's a boon for people like me who enjoy a bit of solitude on the trail. It took us 13 hours to drive the circumference of Lassen hitting Falls River Mill, Susanville and Lake Almanor. By the time we left Lake Almanor it had been snowing for about an hour. As we reached the pass just south of the Park, we were getting warnings that chains were mandatory. As we were driving a rental, chains were not evident. We decided to try our luck anyway. The worst DOT could do was turn us around, making our day even longer. But we got through, just very slowly.

Our next couple of days would be spent driving to the various locations in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest and Shasta Dam. No more snow storms to drive through, we decided to try our luck with a couple of snowbound tourist destinations - McCloud River Falls and Castle Lake. I would have loved to have gotten closer to Mt Shasta, however the snow would have turned us back before we got to the tree line for an unobstructed view. We decided to be satisfied with the magnificent view from Castle Lake.

From there we drove out to the McCloud River and a series of waterfalls. Always a sucker for waterfalls, I drove along the beat up snow covered rutted road into the falls. and promptly got the car stuck. With much maneuvering and throwing out of ideas, Amanda & I got the car unstuck, grabbed a couple of pictures of the falls, then quickly got ourselves out of the mess we had gotten into.

I never get to spend enough time out in these other areas of our territory and feel I am missing some quality adventures.