Gorge-ous, South

 When it comes to absolute beauty in this state, we don’t have to look very far especially when we live in the Puget Sound area and are surrounded by mountains and water. But let’s drive south again towards Portland but head east just as you get to Vancouver to drive Highway 14 through some pretty stunning scenery along the Columbia River. This great waterway of the Pacific Northwest starts in Canada at a series of glaciers called the Columbia Icefields then travels over 1200 miles to the Pacific Ocean. In its journey, the river winds its way through granite mountains of the Rockies and the channeled scablands of Eastern Washington before leisurely strolling through the cliffs of the Washington and Oregon border. 

The river has been a major thoroughfare throughout history from the indigenous peoples who used it for trade and food resource to modern cultures for trade and food resources. Hmm, not much has changed but the river and its course through history as well as its course through the land will forever have a mark on this nation.

This road-trip primarily is to admire and photograph all the beauty the state has to offer. We sometimes forget the gorge has another side to it, the north side, we are so focused on the beauty in Oregon and the dramatic waterfalls that attract worldwide attention. But drive highway 14 out of Vancouver and I think your heart will be won over. There are other stops along the way that will add to your photographs, but we’ll be focusing on the state parks.

And our first park is Beacon Rock State Park. If ever you’ve driven in the gorge you know the rock I’m talking about. An ancient volcanic plug that stands along as a beacon nearly 850 feet above the river. There’s no missing it. But did you know the park itself is 4400+ acres with hiking, biking, and horse trails? If you have the time hike to the top of Hamilton Mountain for views of the Columbia River, Mt Hood, and Mt Adams. From this prospect you can look down on Beacon Rock. Don’t have that kind of time? Then hike the trail – sections of which are bolted into the rock – to the top of Beacon Rock. Afraid of heights? There’s a lovely little ADA trail below Beacon Rock that takes you through meadow and forest. Spring brings out the colors of wildflowers while autumn turns the cottonwood leaves yellow. The camping park is open year-round and is quite the destination itself, but we’re on a road trip so let’s get back on the road and continue east 27 miles to Spring Creek Hatchery.

This park and the next are right in the “bottleneck” of the gorge where the winds never cease and the adventurous athlete soars. Spring Creek Hatchery is a day use park next to the hatchery which can be a fun visit. But when I stop here, I pull out my longer lens and make sure I have a fast shutter speed to capture windsurfers and kite-boarders playing in the wind and waves. The other thing to remember here is that this park looks due south and on sunny days can wreak havoc on your exposure. I try to make the exposure for the athlete and the water spray as they carve trails in the river. As these are the most important elements, I let the rest of the scene fall where is may.

Doug’s Beach, another 18 miles further on, is also a haven for windsurfers and kite-boarders. You also have a few more views of the landscape here, but if you want to capture some great action you will not be disappointed by either of these parks.

Once we’re tuckered out by all the action, just 7 ½ miles more and we come to beautiful Columbia Hills State Park and Dalles Mountain Ranch. The variety here can leave you breathless and I’m sometimes not sure where to start what with over 3600 acres to explore. Horsethief Butte towers over the park and Horsethief Lake (created when they built the Dalles Dam just down river). Let’s start on the south-side of the highway, closer to the river. When they built the dam, they ended up flooding a Native American settlement and the beautiful pictographs. The Army Corps saved several of the pictographs, chopping them out the rockface and relocating them at the park. An interpretive walk close to the river tells the story of the pictographs and the effort to save them. Again, let’s remember that it serves no benefit to judge past actions with today’s understanding.

Also in this area, we have clear access to the lake shore and any birds that might be gathered in the reeds. If we head east another mile, we get to the parking lot for Horsethief Butte and the trail there where you have views of the Columbia River and details of the vegetation of the dry side of the state. Look for smaller wildlife here and of course the birds in the basalt cliffs of the butte. Also look for rock climbers daring gravity.

On the other side of the highway from Horsethief Butte is a parking lot for the Oaks trail that winds through the meadows of Dalles Ranch filled with Arrowleaf Balsamroot and Lupine in the spring. You can also access the meadows from the historic ranch on the west end of the park. There is an interpretive walk here too of ranching life on the Columbia River with farm implements and out-buildings. It is easy to spend your day rambling in this park. 

But our last park on this trip is 19 miles down the road and a great place to rest for the night. Maryhill is a year-round camping park on the shores of the Columbia River. I like meandering around on the shores looking for little details to photograph but I have to say my favorite photo is of a little squirrel hopping through the picnic area. Most people associate the Stonehenge Memorial on the hill overlooking the park as part of the park, but it isn’t. Although, it is very close and a wonderful spot to capture the milky way on a summer’s evening.

Directions from Vancouver, WA (mileages are approximate):

To Beacon Rock: Start driving east on WA Highway 14 for 34 miles. There are two entrances to Beacon Rock State Park. The first one you come to is on the south side of the highway and leads to the boat launch and day-use area. There is a parking lot on the south side of the highway just past this entrance which is an easier access to the Beacon Rock trail. The other entrance for the camping area and trails is on the north side of the highway from this parking lot.

To Spring Creek Hatchery State Park: Continue east on Highway 14 for approximately 26 miles. The park is on the southside of the highway. Once you turn into the park, the day use parking lot comes before the parking lot to the hatchery.

To Doug’s Beach: Back on Highway 14, continue east for about 17.5 miles to Doug’s Beach. The parking is along the south side of the highway.

To Columbia Hills State Park: Again, head east on Highway 14 for 7 miles to Columbia Hills State Park. There are several entrances to the park. The first on you come to is on the north side of the highway and will take to you the ranch buildings of the Dalles Mountain Ranch – stay on Dalles Mountain Rd until you get to the buildings. The second entrance will be short distance beyond on the south side of the highway and leads to the boat ramp, camping, day use and the petroglyph exhibit. A little further along the highway is the parking are for Horsethief Butte on the south, then the Oak trails on the north.

To Maryhill State Park: continue on Highway 14 for 16 miles. Turn right (south) onto Highway 97, follow for 1.5 miles to the park.

Reflections on the Eagle Creek Fire

This was originally written while camping in the gorge this past May.

With a spark smelling of sulfur, the fuse caught fire quickly sizzling closer to explosion. A soft lob an the firecracker turned end over end through the air - arcing slowly down the hillside landing in brown grass dried by the summer’s heat; followed by a cracking pop. Laughter filtered down from above. Another sulfur spark, another lob, another cracking pop in brown grass. The laughter fades into the distance as a tendril of smoke snaked upward from the grass.

By day’s end, the trail above was closed and a long night awaited 150 day hikers trapped by the growing flame. Forty-eight hours later the Eagle Creek fire engulfed the canyon and joined the Indian Creek fire already burning threatening homes and businesses, popular recreation areas, and historic structures. It took nearly 3 months to fully contain and, in that time, jumped the Columbia River to burn acreage in Washington. In the end, 50,000 acres burned, 8 trails were severely damaged, 1 woman lost her home, and the historic highway is closed until further notice.

It was a gut punch the first time I saw the barren cliffs and blackened trees as I drove along I-84. Where I expected to see green & yellow lichens decorating the basalt walls, the was only grey. Blackened skeletal remains of vine maple haunted the forest floor. The young man who threw the firecrackers to entertain his friends, the firecrackers that started the fire had been ordered earlier in the week to pay 36.6 million in restitution as well as 1920 hours of community service and to write letters of apology to everyone immediately affected by his actions – including the woman who lost her home.

Would the citizenry ever see payment for the destruction of a beloved wilderness are? Time will tell and it’s not a question I want to ponder right now. The damage is done and no amount of desire for vengeance will repair the damage. I am here to camp and share time with friends – something I have done for the past 9 years since leaving my husband. It has become an annual pilgrimage of renewal, to breathe in the forest air and listen to the sounds of crashing water falling from high cliffs.

It was here in the little park named Ainsworth where I spoke long into the night with a man and his sons and remembered that life was still an option. It was here where I stood high above the river that I realized beauty will always find a way into my vision. It was here when I began my walk into my future.

Memories were created here, memorialized on camera. There were nights sleeping under the stars & mornings sitting in flowered meadows watching the sun rise. Birthdays and friendships celebrated with burgers, beer and ice cream. All my memories twirled in my head as I drove the highway to my weekend campsite in Ainsworth, including that long talk into the night.

The physical pain I felt as the blackened trees and barren ground passed by my car windows grew until I pulled into Ainsworth State Park. The little park of my hope remained flush with green. Just beyond its borders crept the specter of fire but within the park ferns unfurled, flowers bloomed, and trees flourished. I could look out my tent door to see the hope of possibility that this treasured land would choose life.

Then there's Plan B

Plan A:

It's my sister's birthday and we decide to gather our gear and hoof it out Eagle Creek in the Columbia Gorge. Check another trail off Kristi's bucket list, sleep under the Pacific Northwest sky, and shake out the cobwebs.

Eagle Creek is the most traveled trail in the Columbia Gorge - for good reason. While you will not have summit views, you will hike through a river canyon with moss covered walls, towering big leaf maples, fern-lined trails and 5 named waterfalls (and dozens of smaller unnamed falls). Most who hike the trail go in about 2 miles to see Punchbowl Falls. Others continue on to travel through Tunnel Falls - the trail is high on a cliff and they drilled a tunnel behind the falls to hike through. Stunning but not for those who have a fear of heights.

Even though it's highly traveled, it is so very worth experiencing. So it is on my sister's bucket list.

We invited our friend Evie, who will be joining us on our John Muir trip. Evie brought along her husband. I brought along Zillah.

The day wasn't shaping up to be perfect like the weather reports read, but we had faith the rain wouldn't start falling until we set up camp. We weren't 2 miles in when we needed to get our rain gear out and I looked at Zillah, already soggy and thought sharing a tent with her would not be good for either of us. After a quick consensus, we turned tail and hoofed it back to the car.

Plan B:

A waterfall tour of the gorge with short little hikes.

Our first stop was to Starvation Creek Falls for lunch. Perfect! The rain hadn't yet reached the area so we enjoyed the sun glistening through the new green foliage overhead. The new leaves sparkled in the sun. We left there just as the rain hit us and traveled back to Horsetail Falls. Then on to Multnomah Falls where we walked up to the overly crowded bridge and then bought Kristi a birthday ice cream.

Next stop Bridal Veil Falls where we stopped to photograph the wildflowers along the way. The sun began to peak out again, but we weren't too upset about that - we were having fun. The hike around the lower loop of Latourell Falls had us all giddy. We each saw something exciting to photograph and investigate. On up to Vista House to see the view, we noticed the clouds looked awful dark back the way we had come. Our last stop on Plan B was the Portland Women's Forum at Chanticleer Point for one more view. Just as we got there, the sun peaked through the clouds to light up Vista House. We congratulated not on the pretty picture though - we congratulated ourselves on calling it quits and avoiding the dark band of rain clouds on the horizon.

Best Laid Plans . . .

It was shaping up to be the perfect image. I could see it all in my mind. Sunlight streaming over the hillside, lighting the flowers at my feet maybe a little sun-star effect to enhance the composition. But you know what they say, best laid plans of mice and men.

My buddy Ed & I arrived early to Dalles Mountain Ranch in the Columbia River Gorge. I knew the flowers were blooming and had really hoped I could convince him that heading to Columbia Hills State Park would be a good idea. Dalles Mountain in Washington is less well known than the over-crowded Rowena Plateau on the Oregon side of the gorge. We had photographed at Rowena the morning before - Ed really wanted that classic image of wildflowers at sunrise with the river in the background. And the flowers at Rowena were less than spectacular, in comparison to previous visits.

It was more Ed's trip than mine so I didn't push too much, until we woke up the next morning . . . with rain falling on our tents. We decided to get up anyway, because you never know what will happen in the gorge as my previous trip had proven. We got out of tents, saw a break in the clouds near Dalles Mountain and we sped off to our hoped for amazing images.

Thirty minutes later, we were traipsing through the flower-filled meadows on the side of the mountains. Raindrops still clung to the leaves and grasses, dowsing our boots as we looked for our vantage points. As I meandered, I looked at the hillside to the east and saw a notch that I really liked. Then I found the perfect batch of purple lupine for my foreground.

I was getting more excited as I saw my image come together. I started lining up my composition and saw the ridge just beyond my lupine lined with bright yellow balsamroot.

Yes! This was going to be perfect! The sun would peak at my flowers just to the right of the notch. The aperture of my lens was scrunched down as tight as it would go to make a nice sunstar. And as the sun crested the hill it would also cast light onto the lupine and balsamroot beyond.

I was down-right giddy.

I waited as the sun crept closer to the rim of  the hill. Then I noticed clouds inching their way towards the sun. I willed the sun to rise a little faster. And then just as it hit the lip of the hill to cast light on my perfect image the stupid cloud passed in between us.

NOOO! Stupid *&$%#@ cloud!

I probably shouldn't have called it a bad word, for just after my outburst I was hit with the clouds outburst of rain. I made a few exposures to salvage the morning and returned to the car and Ed, who had called it quits just before I did.

But I like this image and a cup of coffee and an omelette were perfect right afterward.

And then the clouds parted . . .

What do you do to prepare your photographic eye prior to a day's photo trip, or a week's photo voyage? What are your sources for research? Do you pour over guidebooks? Read descriptions on travel blogs? Look at other photographers' works?

Admittedly, I will do all three. Not to copy the work of those before but to understand what to look for as I'm there. How does the light hit certain landmarks during different times of the day? If I know I want to be here at sunrise and there at sunset then I don't have to spend too much time trying to find the places I want to be. And if I'm travelling to photo excursion for just the day, I don't waste precious time finding the image with the light.

So, on a recent trip to Beacon Rock State Park on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge, I flipped through images on google. I had been to Beacon Rock a few times before and climbed to the top of the famed rock. (A little history, the rock was named by Lewis & Clark on their journey west. The rocky thumb sticking up from the river's edge helped guide them along the river.) But I had never seen the rock from the water side of the park. Looking at the images on google, I realized that the river view would be amazing both in the morning light and again in the evening.

So the morning after I got to the park (after midnight, no more camping spots, slept in my car right next to the train tracks - oh yeah, I forgot about the trains), I hopped out of the car and looked eastward towards the lightening sky and saw along the horizon building clouds. Sigh.

Now would you go home after the research, the drive and the train disturbed sleep in your car? I hope your answer is, Heck No! And a good thing too. The weather report said partly cloudy and clouds blow in and out. So maybe, hopefully, all the stars will align and a break in the clouds will let the sun shine though and light the face of Beacon Rock.

I set up my camera on the mooring dock and waited. Talked to another photographer, and waited. Chatted with the fishermen waiting for their friends, and waited. Finally my bladder couldn't wait any longer and I walked back to the shore. Did my business. My dog Zillah did hers. Then we meandered over to the boat launching dock.

And as we got to the end of the dock . . . the clouds parted.

And the water falls up or Protecting your Gear in wet conditions

This past weekend, I went with friends to the Columbia River Gorge - a world of history, forests and waterfalls. The Gorge, as photographers call it (unlike The Gorge in Eastern Washington that is famous for summer concerts) is a must-do destination for anyone wanting to photograph all types of waterfalls. The most famous and iconic of the gorge waterfalls is Multonomah Falls. But there are other beautiful falls along both sides of the Gorge.

The waterfalls on the Oregon side have easier access, most are right along the old historic Columbia River Highway. The falls on the Washington side require a little bit more driving and hiking. But waterfalls are one of those subjects that inspire and challenge us as photographers. Sometimes that is just worth a little extra effort.

However, my friends and I stayed on the Oregon side of the Gorge, to photograph some of the more accessible waterfalls. Only problem was, our 20% chance of rain for the day turned into 100% chance. Normally, cloudy days are ideal for photographing waterfalls - the soft light helps to diminish blown-out areas in the water and softens shadows. Plus the softer light can aid in a longer shutter speed to create the silky look of waterfalls.

The problem with rainy days is keeping the mechanics of your camera dry. Waterfalls do have the added discomfort of spray. Which goes everywhere. The force of the water falling and hitting the pool below causes a wind which carries the spray onto your lens. So keeping your camera dry on just an overcast day is difficult add to it rain falling down and what you have is an inconvenient mess.

Heading out to a photo session with waterfalls requires that you come prepared to keep yourself and your camera dry. Those of us who live in the Pacific Northwest know the value of layers and a good rain coat and pants.

But what do we do with our cameras?

There are several little tricks. A rainsleeve for your camera (that you can buy at any camera store) is probably one of the best ideas I have seen for northwest weather. They cost about $6 to a whopping $50. I have also used ziplock bags and shower caps to help protect the camera body. Another ingenious idea is to clamp an umbrella to your tripod - just be careful on those long exposures, the wind can catch the umbrella and shake the tripod resulting in an unsatisfactory image. Each of these allows for the lens to have a clean view of your subject matter.

Yet with waterfalls spraying water everywhere, what do you do to protect the front of the lens? I generally carry a lens cleaning cloth to wipe down the lens between exposures then immediately cover the lens with a sandwich bag. I will take several of the same exposure and one usually comes out without too much spray on the lens which can easily be cloned out in photoshop.

You just have to be patient, release the shutter between breezes, and ready to take several images of the same exposure and compositions. And this is where your layers and rain gear will come in handy to keep you warm and dry.

Lyle Cherry Orchards

The vision was in my head. I knew what I wanted in my photograph, but would I be able to catch it? I knew that from where I stood, the sunset would be truly amazing. The real question was did I have the fortitude to wait for it? One more frigid blast of wind gave me my answer - I would come back some other time.

I had climbed to the Lyle Cherry Orchards late in the afternoon with the plan of sitting & waiting for sunset after exploring the "orchards." Ok, there are really only about 3 cherry trees left of the century old orchard, but the views they have a stunning. High above the Columbia River looking east towards The Dalles, a homesteader with a great eye for the dramatic planted a cherry orchard. Today the homestead is nothing more than a clearing with a few trees left, the surrounding oak forest fast encroaching upon the scene. (OK, not that quickly, not as we would judge.)

I had picked the spot for my perfect sunset image. But I had misjudged both my time and my perseverance to endure the icy wind.. I tried, I really did. But that last blast shook the desire right out of me - I wanted something hot to eat & I wanted it now! Forget the sunset & forget hiking down in the dark. I rounded a switchback & stretched out before me was a golden light over the bench below, filtered by the clouds. I quickly shot a few images then continued my hike down towards hot food.

Maybe I didn't need to stay for sunset after all.

Waterfalls & Wildflowers

I needed a break. I had received some not so great news earlier in the week which could have restricted my ability to head out to the Columbia River Gorge. But I was not to be deterred. I had been looking forward to this trip for over a month and the journey had been close to cancelled several times. The first group I was to head out with changed to the weekend prior, but I was already booked to go to Mt Baker. The second group ended up cancelling on me as they needed to finalize a few things in town. Then I was hit with a financial restraint. But I wanted to head to the gorge and explore a few waterfalls and trails I had never been on. So I packed up my tent, my camera & my determination to not let bad news spoil my life and drove south.

There are two times of the year that I love the gorge - Spring & Fall. I'd love to head down when the waterfalls are frozen, but have yet to make the time. Fall is great as sunlight glitters through the golden leaves of maples & alders, their brilliant colors reflected in the tumbling streams and rippling pools near the waterfalls. Spring brings great sprays of power of waterfalls gushing over the cliffs and wildflowers. Two of my favorite things to photograph, moving water and colorful flowers. It would be a perfect destination for me.

I took no time after setting up my tent in Ainsworth State Park before I grabbed my camera, put on the diopter filter and began playing with the flowers surrounding my camp: bleeding hearts, trillium, herb robert, spring beauty. I even focused in on leaf & fern details. I just wanted to immerse myself in my photography, forget about my troubles for a few days. My camp neighbor invited me to share his campfire with himself & his 3 sons as night approached and I gladly accepted. As the night wore on, I began spilling my troubles to him and began to feel relieved and thought his presence in my life for this one evening was no accident. 

The next morning he & his boys broke camp while began my day of hiking. I decided to head out from Ainsworth and connect with the Gorge trail which would lead me past several waterfalls and into Oneonta Gorge to Triple Fall - my destination for the morning. I hiked through sweet green light of the sun streaming through the new spring growth of the trees covering me, trillium & calypso orchids glittered beside the trail like jewels. I first came to Ponytail Falls - a horsetail fall spraying out over columnar basalt. A cave behind the falls gave me an interesting perspective to photograph. Oneonta Falls & Triple Falls were next but the smaller falls along the trail were just as marvelous. I spent all morning and most of the afternoon hiking, photographing, and chatting with the other hikers. All of us in good company enjoying the beginnings of spring in this place, filled with waterfalls & wildflowers.

Fall into Autumn

Punchbowl Falls, 10/25/08, 4 miles, 300 elevation

What a wonderful weekend. I was able to spend 3 days with a very good friend and about 20 other of her friends to celebrate the 70th anniversary of her birth and continued good health along the Columbia River. We had hoped for glorious fall color and although the colors weren't as far along as we had hoped, they were nothing to guffaw at.

We are all photo-geeks so we spent each day exploring the waterfalls and apple orchards in the gorge and the Hood River valley. I think came away with almost 300 shots - gotta love the digital age.

The one hike a few of us took was along Eagle Creek to Punchbowl Falls. The trail continues further to Tunnel Falls - that famous cascade where the trail cuts under the waterfall along the cliff. We didn't have the time to go that far, but it's on my list.

The trail hugs the cliff even in the first 2 miles to Punchbowl Falls, with a few ramblings through the woods as it slowly climbs to a vantage point over-looking the falls. Before the vantage point, a side trail takes off down the hill. This will take you to the falls and a sweet little waterfall below punchbowl. Most photo-geeks lament about the log that has fallen across the chasm leading into the falls for it blocks a perfect view. I instead playing with the log - after all, nature is nature and you must work with what she gives you.

We all met afterward for dinner and birthday cake in Hood River and made plans on where to go on our friend's 80th birthday.

A Day of Waterfalls

Columbia River Gorge, 3/24/08

I took a drive back through time to visit a few of the waterfalls in the Columbia River Gorge. The Historic Columbia Highway runs through the gorge and back through time - to an era when Sunday drives meant something more than getting somewhere fast. It curves through the gorge along stone rails and bridges, parks meant for picnics, hills with vistas, and magnificent waterfalls. I set out on a leisurely pace like those who traveled this road years before.

My first stop was Sheppards Dell Falls - a falls that can be easily overlooked as it is tucked away in a little grotto, not easily seen by those accustomed to a faster paced life. It's a two-tiered waterfall dropping approximately 120 feet to the canyon below. Moss and ferns dripped from the rock wall lining the walkway a sign of the shadowy moist life in the gorge.

Next came Bridal Veil Falls cascading between moss encrusted boulders. The creek rumbled over rocks as the spring melt rushed towards the Columbia River. Anther trail takes the visitor along several viewpoints overlooking the Columbia River where the Portland can be seen far in the west and Bonneville dam to the east.

A short drive took me to Wahkeena Falls, falling 242 feet from the high cliffs then tumultuously tumbling downhill under a sweet little bridge. A short hike takes you to the base of the falls where the spray immediately cools you down from the exertion of climbing the hill. Another stone picturesque bridge awaits you here and beckons you to continue on.

I would recommend that you do continue for although the way is steep the beautiful little falls that awaits you a mile up the trail is well worth the effort. Fairy Falls cascades over a series of rocks in a horsetail reminiscent of waterfalls found on islands of paradise. There may not be a pool at the bottom to swim in, but I could easily imagine little sprite showering in the cool waters.

After that, Olympia was a bit weary so I made a quick stop at Multnomah Falls before continuing on to Horsetail Falls and camp to rest for the afternoon. That evening I drove back to Crown Point to watch the sun set over the Columbia River - a sunset deserving of a standing ovation.