Washington State Parks: South Whidbey

Tucked away in the Southwest corner of Whidbey Island is the little park called South Whidbey. It might seem like a quiet little park, off the beaten path and away from the hustle and bustle of Whidbey Island but it can be a happening place.



On summer weekends, the campground can be full to brimming. Don't let that deter you for the forest of South Whidbey beckons.


The park rests on a bluff overlooking Admiralty Inlet but the treasure of South Whidbey does not rest in the narrow shoreline at the end of a steep trail - the treasure rests in the forest across the road from the campground. And it's a fabulous forest, filled with ferns, ancient trees and a host of woodland critters. You might even think you're Snow White as you walk the trails chatting with the birds and squirrels.


Although the beach is quite lovely with views across to the Olympic Peninsula and up to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. All sorts of little flotsam and jetsam wash up along the shores here and one can spend hours photographing the minutia of beach shells and seaweed. In the fall, fishermen line the shores for a bit of surf fishing.


Yes, spend some time on the beach, but you must head to the forest across the way and hike through an ancient forest saved from the woodsman's axe by a husband and wife team who sought to protect this gem. Here you will find ancient trees, wooded glades, forest marshlands and the bountiful sword fern that keeps the forest understory green throughout the seasons. The forest is a wonderland of quiet reflection and awe inspiring trees.


Photo Tip: If you are finding yourself overwhelmed in the forest, try focusing in on the small forest vignettes. A stump filled with mosses and ferns can convey the majesty and beauty of an old forest just as much as trying to get those big trees top to bottom in the frame. Look for small details and small critters and soon you'll be able to see the forest and the trees.


To get here: Get onto Whidbey Island either by the ferry from Mukilteo (south end of the island) or drive from the north end of the island on Highway 20. From the south, drive north out of Clinton on highway 525 for 10 miles. Turn left on East Bush Point Road. Follow E Bush Point Rd for 2 miles, the main road curves to the right and turns into Smuggler's Cove Road. Follow Smuggler's Cove Rd to the park on your left another 2.5 miles. From the north, drive south on highway 20 through Oak Harbor. From Oak Harbor travel another 20 miles to Smuggler's Cove Road and turn right. Follow Smuggler's Cove Rd for 4.5 miles and the park will be on your right.

Going Solo

I often find inspiration on social media sites when my friends ask questions that really get me thinking. Near Christmas, a question was asked about holiday memories and I wrote a post about some of my favorite holiday memories.

Recently a female hiking friend of mine asked when any of her female outdoorsy friends decided to do their first solo backpack and why.

Good question.

I can tell you that for the longest time, heading into the backcountry by myself was a frightening proposition. A habit of reading true stories of people getting lost and dying while in the backcountry alone made the idea unfathomable to me. Why would anyone do that? You could get eaten by a mountain lion, mauled by a bear, fall of a cliff, freeze to death, get lost and starve, drown, break a leg . . . the list was endless of all the horrible and nasty ways you could meet you maker in the wilderness.

But then, well, isn't that the same list I had for everything that could happen to you in the wilderness anyway? What was the big deal? If I have an accident, it really didn't matter if I was going solo or I was with hiking buddies. And anyone who really knows me, knows that I'm pretty much an accident waiting to happen.

But you can't always live in fear, can you? In the years prior to my first solo backpack I had tried my hand at alpine scrambling, cross country skiing, kayaking, long distance backpacking and winter camping. All things I had been afraid of before but succeeded in accomplishing my goals. My next goal on the list - a solo backpack.

My number one recommendation for backpacking alone is to plan and plan well. I chose a destination I had been to a few times either with others or on day trips - Summerland Park in Mt Rainier National Park. Checking with rangers helped greatly with my planning - I knew the trail conditions, weather forecast and wildlife activity before I packed my pack.

My number two recommendation is to tell another person your exact route and itinerary. This is a good plan even if you're heading out with other people. My most reliable contact person lives in Montana and I email her the itinerary, route (trail names and numbers), which forest or park and the number to call in an emergency (the county sheriff's office - 911 does no good when you are a few counties away).

My first trip was just an over-nighter, but it led to longer trips filled with fantastic adventures. There's a sense I get when I'm out alone of self-reliance, wildness and community with nature.

Going into the wilderness alone isn't for every one, but if you dare to take the chance you will never regret it - unless you get eaten by a mountain lion.

Onward!

Two-Thousand Fourteen was an amazing year for me.

I was able to get into the swing of becoming the Chair of the Seattle Mountaineers Hiking Committee - a position I dove into without much preparation. And I found folks eager to help me succeed and in turn, I'm willing to do what it takes to help them succeed as well.

Walking comfortably in my own skin (both physically and psychically) became easier. I've been able to make peace with my past and accept who I am and move forward in spite of my past.

I reached out to a couple of photography mentoring groups and made new friends, sharing ideas and trouble shooting problems. Good honest feedback.

But the best thing that happened to me in 2014 was that I found my voice and started writing. A friend reminded me that I had something to say and that I should share my message with everyone and anyone. I started writing a book for photographers. Not only started researching and writing but looking forward to getting out and researching more.

So now that we're done reminiscing about last year, what's going to happen this year?

Good things.

My schedule is ready so I can complete 90% of my research by the end of next year. Plus get a major portion of the book written and research getting it out to you.

I'll be looking for a publisher or looking into self-publishing.

Fixing my website so I'm not completely embarrassed when I hand out cards.

Starting a newsletter to keep you up to date on my progress. (Won't you like to sign up?)

It's going to be another amazing year!

My 12 favorite images of 2014

What a year it has been! Whew!

So much has happened in my little corner of the world. I've explored a few new places and several old favorites. Put a lot of miles on my boots and my tires. Started a few new chapters in my life including turning a personal project into a book project. To round out the year, I chose 12 of my favorite images (and it was a very difficult choice as I know I'm missing some). Enjoy!

And in no particular order . . .

1) Reflected Sunset, Capes Meares, OR - In January, I joined family on the Oregon Coast and they gladly allowed some time for me to photograph some very beautiful beach sunsets. On this night, sunset wasn't that spectacular but I was able to catch a little of the color reflected in the windows of the Cape Meares lighthouse for a unique sunset image.

2) Misty Mountains, North Cascades National Park, WA - This was one of those place I had been wanting to hike to for years and I finally got the chance with a group of Mountaineers. It was a misty day as we ventured up the trail to Cascade Pass but every now and then the clouds parted just enough. It's easy to see why this is one of the classic hikes in Washington.

3) Sunset under the Oaks, Elma, WA - A visit to my aunt's house this summer rewarded me with a pastel sky. I have always loved my aunt's oak trees and have photographed them often over the years. This time however, the result turned out perfect.

4) Apple Blossom, Fort Simcoe State Park, WA - While exploring Fort Simcoe this past spring I happened across this apple tree with just a few blossoms. What could be better for a sweet spring image? This may be the image I think of as spring rolls around again.

5) Cape Disappointment, Cape Disappointment State Park, WA - This is a story of patience and poor weather. I had already fallen on my tooshie, slipping on wet logs to get to a good vantage point. But looking at the waves crashing on the rocks, I knew the bruises would be worth it. I had already captured a few good images of the roiling sea when I spied the ship on the horizon moving slowly towards the point. I waited until the ship moved into position. Then carefully but quickly retreated back to the warmth of my car.

6) Beacon Rock at Sunrise, Beacon Rock State Park, WA - This is another case of patience paying off. This morning I watched as daylight progressed without the colors of a glorious sunrise, clouds obscured to eastern horizon. But noticing a break in the clouds, I waited. My hope was that a shaft of sun would strike the face of Beacon Rock. Sure enough it did and I jumped for joy.

7) Leaf on Windowsill, Oysterville, WA - Sweet memories. Oysterville holds so very many childhood memories for me. Of summer days spent staying with my grandmother in her little trailer just out of town. Walking to town, playing on the beach - lazy days of exploring as only a child could. When I visited Oysterville this year, I stopped by the church. The church where my uncle married (and I was a candle lighter). Sunlight streaked throughout the church and as I explored the corners and memories I spied this little dried leaf perched in the sill.

8) Window Reflection, Seattle, WA - I do love street photography. There's an element to the art that makes me concentrate on the small details of the world. Here I was sitting outside a cafe and noticed this man's face reflected perfectly in the window. This may be my favorite from the year. An image where everything ties together.

9) Mt Shuksan, an Alpine Tarn and Starburst, Mt Baker NRA, WA - I knew what I wanted. I wanted a starburst over a ridge with a tarn in the foreground and Mt Shuksan in the background. So to get what I wanted I hiked along Artist's Point until I found the setting and waited for magic to happen.

10) Karen's Sunset, Gifford Pinchot NF, WA - I think this might have been the saddest day of my year - the day I found out my friend Karen Sykes who had been lost on Mt Rainier would not be coming home to us. My cousin and drove up to this viewpoint of the mountain she loved for sunset. Her absence is felt throughout the hiking community.

11) Elowah Falls, Columbia River Gorge, OR - Rushing water, green moss, gorges and cliffs - really what's not to love?

12) Abstract in Water, Poulsbo, WA - beautiful abstracts in water. Whenever I'm out kayaking, at some point I focus my lens on the reflections in the water to capture the dancing light and colors.

Bonus Image - Fallen Barn, Choteau, MT - While on my annual trek to visit friends in Montana, I spied this old barn in the middle of the field. I wanted to photograph it. And knew that to capture what I saw I would need my telephoto lens. Maybe all those college classes in photography paid off after all.

Christmas Memories

A friend posted on Facebook the other day asking for our favorite memories. She wanted to give her kids memories, not presents because she treasured the memories of Christmas from her childhood.

It got me to thinking about my favorite memories and I'd like to share them with you.

When my sister & I were young, we lived in an apartment above the clubhouse of a golf course. Dad worked on Christmas running the course and had to be ready for the golfers before the sun came up. But he always wanted to be there when we opened presents. We'd get up and open our presents, hug and kiss mom & dad then go back to bed with a toy or two. Dad would go to work. Mom would get busy in the kitchen. Not for us really, but for the golfers. The café at the golf course was closed for the holiday and mom couldn't let the golfers go home with empty bellies. There were pies to be baked, cookies to be put out, veggies to steam, meats to roast, drinks to chill and pineapple chunks to soak in rum. We'd wake up again to the savory smells coming from the kitchen and play as golfers streamed into the dining area mom had set up as a buffet with candles and decorations.

There was warmth and love flowing throughout our home.

Several years later, I was away at college - what felt like a world away from family and friends. I had just escaped from a violent marriage, was facing Christmas alone and feeling all the lonelier as my friends at school had gone home. I cried myself to sleep holding onto the one thing that kept me going, my dog Max. For a tree, I cut down with a kitchen knife a little scraggle of a tree (think Charlie Brown), wrapped the trunk in rags so it would stand upright in the holder and threw some tinsel and lights on it. At least I'd have a tree even if there were no presents underneath. My cupboards were pretty bare - hotdogs and Top Ramen were the fare for most days and I wondered if I should splurge.

A few days before Christmas, a man I had been tutoring called and invited me to spend the day with him and his family. He was a man who had seen the underbelly of humanity in himself and was fighting his way out of the waste he had become. She was the daughter of a preacher who saw the potential of the man he wanted to be. They had four kids together and they all loved to sing - so did I. They had no more than me as they were also college students and struggling to make ends meet. But they had room in their home and their hearts for a lonely woman on Christmas.

We ate food from their garden preserved for the winter, sang Christmas carols and filled their home with warmth and love.

These are memories I will treasures for as long as I may.

Merry Christmas.
Heidi

Washington State Park: Wallace Falls

Growing up in Monroe, I spent a bit of time at our local state park Wallace Falls. It was the local park and a fun hike on the weekend, even in the winter. When higher elevations were snowed in, Wallace Falls was there for us, like an old friend. It has been a fall-back hike years when snow lingered in the mountains longer than desired. And it's been a perfect late season hike. It was also one of the hikes I went on with my big 4x5 view camera when I was taking classes on exposure in college.

I understood, after that hike, why William Henry Jackson had donkeys.

The park hasn't changed a lot and yet it has changed so much. Rental cabins have been added to add more space for anyone wanting to sleep close to the Wallace River. Plus a few more trails have been added leading hikers to Wallace Lake and Jay Lake. Backpackers can now sleep overnight near Wallace Lake with a permit from the park.

But the true draw here is the falls. Wallace Falls is three falls along the river, creatively named upper, middle & lower falls. Each spectacular on their own, but all together quite amazing. Middle falls can be seen from highway 2. Each falls has its own viewing area plus there are viewpoints along the trail that look out over the Skykomish valley.

Don't be in too much of a hurry to get the the main attraction. The Wallace River is beautiful as it tumbles over river rocks below low hanging limbs of the thick forest. Take the small side trail to Small Falls, an appetizer for the main attraction. You'll see these if you hike the Woody Trail which I advise either on the way to or from - you will not want to miss them. The Railroad Grade is an easier climb but longer. The walk here can be cool in the summer heat with the overhanging maples and alders that turn yellow in the fall.

Small details of the forest can be found on either trail (and you can make a loop out of your hike with a short connector trail - the connector trail also gets you to the Greg Ball Trail which leads to Wallace Lake). Small streams, ferns, flowers, and mushrooms help bring life to the forest. Bring your macro lens for some of the details.

This is a park where you'll want to bring your long lens, your short lens and your macro lens. You'll find an opportunity to use them all.

To get there, drive Highway 2 to the town of Gold Bar. Westbound, turn right on 1st Ave, Eastbound turn left. Turn right onto May Creek Rd and follow for about 3/4 of a mile. Turn left on Wallace Lake Rd, and arrive at the park.

Washington State Parks: Bottle Beach

Little Bottle Beach State Park. It holds so much in it's tiny package: history, scenery, wildlife. And it's all tucked away next to the highway along Grays Harbor. What's not to love?

On the site of Bottle Beach State Park once stood the community of Ocosta by the Sea - the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad was located here and a grand port had been in the plans. Hotels, churches, schools and industry sprung up in the area including a bottle company. But as it sometimes happens the railroad went somewhere else, the economy sunk and sediment along the shoreline made it difficult for large ships to moor. Sadly Ocosta by the Sea became no more.

As the town dwindled, nature came back. The marshes are filled with birds. Grays Harbor is one of the most important feeding areas for migratory shorebirds. Millions of birds have fed on invertebrates in the mud flats as they migrate north to their breeding grounds. It's estimated that about 20% of them can be found near Bottle Beach. Whew! That's quite a population for this little spec of land.

What about the scenery you ask? If the park is on 75 acres how much scenery can there be? And mud flats? Euw. But don't despair my landscape and scenery friends, the trail to the beach meanders through marshlands and you almost feel as if they could stretch forever. Grand mountain views? Who needs those when you have open skies and rugged land in front of you?

Continue to the beach where the skeleton of an old building remains. Skirt around the side to a wide open stretch of beach. When the tide is out, you can see the remnants of the pilings for the long docks that once stretched out into the bay creating wonderful lines towards the horizon. Walk out on the mud flats for ripples in the earth and almost hidden pockets of standing water. It's the feel of another world.

Bring your long lens for the birds and your imagination to take you back into yesteryear. This little park will not disappoint.

To get here drive highway 105 from Aberdeen along the south shore of Grays Harbor for approximately 15 miles. The parking lot is on the north side of the highway.