Washington State Parks: South Whidbey

Tucked away in the Southwest corner of Whidbey Island is the little park called South Whidbey. It might seem like a quiet little park, off the beaten path and away from the hustle and bustle of Whidbey Island but it can be a happening place.



On summer weekends, the campground can be full to brimming. Don't let that deter you for the forest of South Whidbey beckons.


The park rests on a bluff overlooking Admiralty Inlet but the treasure of South Whidbey does not rest in the narrow shoreline at the end of a steep trail - the treasure rests in the forest across the road from the campground. And it's a fabulous forest, filled with ferns, ancient trees and a host of woodland critters. You might even think you're Snow White as you walk the trails chatting with the birds and squirrels.


Although the beach is quite lovely with views across to the Olympic Peninsula and up to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. All sorts of little flotsam and jetsam wash up along the shores here and one can spend hours photographing the minutia of beach shells and seaweed. In the fall, fishermen line the shores for a bit of surf fishing.


Yes, spend some time on the beach, but you must head to the forest across the way and hike through an ancient forest saved from the woodsman's axe by a husband and wife team who sought to protect this gem. Here you will find ancient trees, wooded glades, forest marshlands and the bountiful sword fern that keeps the forest understory green throughout the seasons. The forest is a wonderland of quiet reflection and awe inspiring trees.


Photo Tip: If you are finding yourself overwhelmed in the forest, try focusing in on the small forest vignettes. A stump filled with mosses and ferns can convey the majesty and beauty of an old forest just as much as trying to get those big trees top to bottom in the frame. Look for small details and small critters and soon you'll be able to see the forest and the trees.


To get here: Get onto Whidbey Island either by the ferry from Mukilteo (south end of the island) or drive from the north end of the island on Highway 20. From the south, drive north out of Clinton on highway 525 for 10 miles. Turn left on East Bush Point Road. Follow E Bush Point Rd for 2 miles, the main road curves to the right and turns into Smuggler's Cove Road. Follow Smuggler's Cove Rd to the park on your left another 2.5 miles. From the north, drive south on highway 20 through Oak Harbor. From Oak Harbor travel another 20 miles to Smuggler's Cove Road and turn right. Follow Smuggler's Cove Rd for 4.5 miles and the park will be on your right.

Can't count on the weather

Ebey's Landing, 3/14/09, 5 miles, 250 elevation

Finally the day came when Michael and I were to lead our mentored hike for the Mountaineers. But as the weekend approached the weather forecast got worse. We were expecting high winds and rain for the morning of our hike. Our group began to dwindle until there were just two on the list the night before our adventure. I learned several years ago that you never cancel a trip because you don't know what will happen. And it's a good thing we didn't.

Rain may have been falling in Seattle when we left, but the grey skies held off their threat of a deluge until after our hike. The wind however was stiff and cold as we started up the bluff. We all bundled up as we set off for our little journey.

Ebey's Landing is a hike full of history and we detoured to view a piece of that history - an old blockhouse used in the Indian Wars of the 1850's. The settlers would take refuge in these smallish structures. They would fire rifles through holes in the thick walls at their attackers. When the attack was over, the settlers would return to their homes - one of which is replicated nearby.

We continued our hike along the bluff and once past the ridge the wind died down so we were able to enjoy our walk much better. Without the wind freezing our exposed skin, we could stop every now and then to admire the view - and notice a cactus or two just below us on the bluff. Yes, you read that right, cactus. There are several cacti making their home in the sandy soils of the Ebey's Landing trail. It's quite a sight.

Once we hit the beach the wind had again picked up - no longer blocked by the ridge. So our walk trek back to the cars was quick - just so we could get ourselves out of the cold. It wasn't until our drive back to Seattle that the rains started falling. Like I said, you don't always know how a day will turn out.

Scouting Trip

Ebey's Landing, 3/1/09, 4 miles, 250 elevation

On a blustery type of a day, Michael & I went to scout a trail we'd be leading a hike on later in the month - Ebey's Landing. I had often read about this little trail and the bounty of flowers in the spring. March is a little early for flowers, but we scheduled the trip anyway to accommodate our Mountaineers Hike Mentor. To become hike leaders for the Mountaineers, we had to lead a hike under the supervision of a certified hike leader.

We packed extra layers expecting a bone-chilling wind and made sure the dogs had their coats, but those were not needed. e were peeling off layers barely a mile into the hike. The sun even glowed brightly behind a thin veil of clouds. The wind never materialized - amazing as we hiked along a high bluff over-looking the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Admiralty Inlet.

The hike itself is a leisurely paced trail along the bluff and completes a loop along the beach. Even though flowers were not yet blooming, we saw quite a bit of wildlife including a sea lion swimming through the kelp just off the shore.

And now that we have scouted the trip, we feel comfortable enough to lead the hike later on.