Oyster Road

Let’s head out on an oyster shaped loop to find some succulents delicacies of the shallows of Hood Canal to either eat, photograph or just enjoy a day in your parks. This 78-mile trip will take you past some prime oyster gathering beaches plus a few farms and stores to buy these tasty bivalves-if you happen to show up in the wrong season or are unlucky in your harvest. And with any of these road-trips, there’s plenty of opportunity to photograph the beauty the state has to offer.

Just a note here that if you plan on harvesting oysters, check the WFWD for licensing, requirements, and seasons.

This is a road trip where the beaches are filled with the empty oyster shells of previous harvests for both human consumption and animal – racoons and gulls love slurping a raw oyster on the half-shell. When I come to these beaches for photographs, I look for scenics of hood canal as well as details of the beaches and textures of the oyster shells themselves – I use my shorter lens for these types of images. Because these beaches offer an abundance of food for other critters as well, be prepared with a long lens in your bag, just in case you can catch a gull lifting off to drop its find on the rocks below. Low tide is better for harvesting, but anytime is a great time for photography.

Our first stop along the way is Kitsap Memorial State Park, just north of Poulsbo on the eastern shore of Hood Canal. In the summer months, this park is popular with the wedding crowd and for good reason, the park is tucked into grand douglas-firs with views of Hood Canal and the Olympics beyond. Sunrise can be wonderful from here as the early morning sunlight reflects off the mountains. And sunsets aren’t too bad either. At high tide, the beach is almost non-existent but low tide exposes the treasures the waves conceal.

Next, we’ll cross the Hood Canal floating bridge to the little oft-forgotten Shine Tidelands State Park. Some think of this park as a little wayside, someplace with an outhouse for a quick bathroom break. And most might poo-poo the idea of this little beach of being photogenic, but I challenge you to look closer. To watch the eagles fly overhead. To watch the ducks swim in the marsh. To watch sunset and moonrise over Hood Canal. It is a small respite close to highway 104 yet peaceful.

We’ll head back out to highway 104 west to catch highway 101 south and our first stop along the way is Dosewallips State Park. With over 1000 acres to explore and 5 miles of beach front, this park is a destination for all adventurers. Oyster gathering is done on the beaches east of highway 101 – those beaches also hold sweeping views of Hood Canal and the Kitsap Peninsula. The shoreline here can be muddy and the marsh grasses evolved for the harsh conditions of saltwater habitat and show it by being coarse to the touch. The shoreline ripples along water’s edge to add rhythm to your images.

Once you tear yourself away from the flats of Dosewallips, travel south for 10 miles to little Triton Cove. The views aren’t expansive in this little boat put-in, but the beach is littered with oyster shells ready for a macro lens to work with textures and patterns. I can often get lost in these little details, but we have more parks to visit so let’s hop back into the car and continue south 29 miles to Potlatch State Park near the southern “hook” of Hood Canal and the Skokomish Indian Reservation. The term Potlatch comes from the of the indigenous people of the coastal Pacific Northwest and means a ceremonial feast where gifts are given and exchanged. And the gift of this park is the delicious oysters we are looking for. 

If you are not into harvesting your own oysters, stop in Hamma Hamma along the way at the oyster beds and restaurant. Or go a little further to Union to a few of the shops there.

The views from Potlatch are not as expansive as Dosewallips closer to the mouth of Hood Canal, but you will still find beauty in the landscape. The beach here is again muddy with rocks and oyster shells, perfect for beach details. 

One last park to visit as we drive around the hook of Hood Canal and through the town of Union. Just north of Union on highway 106 is Twanoh State Park. Because of it’s relative closeness to Bremerton, the oyster gatherers are often found along its shores. A few old CCC building s and long high docks add interest to your landscapes here and because we are now facing west, we have views of the southern Olympics across the water.

These parks have so much more to explore than just the shoreline and oyster beds. There is beauty here in all that the park holds. It’s easy to spend a day or a weekend along the beaches of Hood Canal.

Directions from Bainbridge Island: (Mileages are approximate)

To Kitsap Memorial State Park: From the ferry terminal, follow highway 305 through Bainbridge Island for 13 miles to merge onto highway 3 north just beyond Poulsbo. Drive highway 3 for 4 miles to turn left on NE Park St.

To Shine Tidelands State Park: Head back to highway 3 and turn north towards Hood Canal Bridge and cross the bridge in 3 miles – this gets you onto highway 104. As you get to the other side of the bridge, turn right to the park.

To Dosewallips State Park: Continue on highway 14 west. Take the exit (right exit) to Center Rd in 9.5 miles and head south to Quilcene and the junction with highway 101 in 8 miles. Follow highway 101 for 12 miles to the park. There are 2 entrances to the park. On the west side of the highway is the camp area and trails through the forest. On the east side of the highway is access to the shoreline and oyster gathering. 

To Triton Cove State Park:  Continue south on highway 101 for 8 miles. The entrance to the park is on the east side of the highway.

To Potlatch State Park. Back on highway 101 south, drive 20.5 miles to the park. The day use area is on the east side of the highway and camping is on the west side of the highway. As you are driving, you will go through the towns of Hamma Hamma and Hoodsport. Pick up oysters in Hamma Hamma and stop for ice cream and coffee in Hoodsport.

To Twanoh State Park: Continue south on highway 101 to the junction with highway 106 at Skokomish and head east towards the town of Union. There are a few additional places along this route to pick up oysters. Once on highway 106, it is 12 miles to the park. The campground is on the east side of the highway and the day use with oyster gathering is on the west side of the highway.

Gorge-ous, South

 When it comes to absolute beauty in this state, we don’t have to look very far especially when we live in the Puget Sound area and are surrounded by mountains and water. But let’s drive south again towards Portland but head east just as you get to Vancouver to drive Highway 14 through some pretty stunning scenery along the Columbia River. This great waterway of the Pacific Northwest starts in Canada at a series of glaciers called the Columbia Icefields then travels over 1200 miles to the Pacific Ocean. In its journey, the river winds its way through granite mountains of the Rockies and the channeled scablands of Eastern Washington before leisurely strolling through the cliffs of the Washington and Oregon border. 

The river has been a major thoroughfare throughout history from the indigenous peoples who used it for trade and food resource to modern cultures for trade and food resources. Hmm, not much has changed but the river and its course through history as well as its course through the land will forever have a mark on this nation.

This road-trip primarily is to admire and photograph all the beauty the state has to offer. We sometimes forget the gorge has another side to it, the north side, we are so focused on the beauty in Oregon and the dramatic waterfalls that attract worldwide attention. But drive highway 14 out of Vancouver and I think your heart will be won over. There are other stops along the way that will add to your photographs, but we’ll be focusing on the state parks.

And our first park is Beacon Rock State Park. If ever you’ve driven in the gorge you know the rock I’m talking about. An ancient volcanic plug that stands along as a beacon nearly 850 feet above the river. There’s no missing it. But did you know the park itself is 4400+ acres with hiking, biking, and horse trails? If you have the time hike to the top of Hamilton Mountain for views of the Columbia River, Mt Hood, and Mt Adams. From this prospect you can look down on Beacon Rock. Don’t have that kind of time? Then hike the trail – sections of which are bolted into the rock – to the top of Beacon Rock. Afraid of heights? There’s a lovely little ADA trail below Beacon Rock that takes you through meadow and forest. Spring brings out the colors of wildflowers while autumn turns the cottonwood leaves yellow. The camping park is open year-round and is quite the destination itself, but we’re on a road trip so let’s get back on the road and continue east 27 miles to Spring Creek Hatchery.

This park and the next are right in the “bottleneck” of the gorge where the winds never cease and the adventurous athlete soars. Spring Creek Hatchery is a day use park next to the hatchery which can be a fun visit. But when I stop here, I pull out my longer lens and make sure I have a fast shutter speed to capture windsurfers and kite-boarders playing in the wind and waves. The other thing to remember here is that this park looks due south and on sunny days can wreak havoc on your exposure. I try to make the exposure for the athlete and the water spray as they carve trails in the river. As these are the most important elements, I let the rest of the scene fall where is may.

Doug’s Beach, another 18 miles further on, is also a haven for windsurfers and kite-boarders. You also have a few more views of the landscape here, but if you want to capture some great action you will not be disappointed by either of these parks.

Once we’re tuckered out by all the action, just 7 ½ miles more and we come to beautiful Columbia Hills State Park and Dalles Mountain Ranch. The variety here can leave you breathless and I’m sometimes not sure where to start what with over 3600 acres to explore. Horsethief Butte towers over the park and Horsethief Lake (created when they built the Dalles Dam just down river). Let’s start on the south-side of the highway, closer to the river. When they built the dam, they ended up flooding a Native American settlement and the beautiful pictographs. The Army Corps saved several of the pictographs, chopping them out the rockface and relocating them at the park. An interpretive walk close to the river tells the story of the pictographs and the effort to save them. Again, let’s remember that it serves no benefit to judge past actions with today’s understanding.

Also in this area, we have clear access to the lake shore and any birds that might be gathered in the reeds. If we head east another mile, we get to the parking lot for Horsethief Butte and the trail there where you have views of the Columbia River and details of the vegetation of the dry side of the state. Look for smaller wildlife here and of course the birds in the basalt cliffs of the butte. Also look for rock climbers daring gravity.

On the other side of the highway from Horsethief Butte is a parking lot for the Oaks trail that winds through the meadows of Dalles Ranch filled with Arrowleaf Balsamroot and Lupine in the spring. You can also access the meadows from the historic ranch on the west end of the park. There is an interpretive walk here too of ranching life on the Columbia River with farm implements and out-buildings. It is easy to spend your day rambling in this park. 

But our last park on this trip is 19 miles down the road and a great place to rest for the night. Maryhill is a year-round camping park on the shores of the Columbia River. I like meandering around on the shores looking for little details to photograph but I have to say my favorite photo is of a little squirrel hopping through the picnic area. Most people associate the Stonehenge Memorial on the hill overlooking the park as part of the park, but it isn’t. Although, it is very close and a wonderful spot to capture the milky way on a summer’s evening.

Directions from Vancouver, WA (mileages are approximate):

To Beacon Rock: Start driving east on WA Highway 14 for 34 miles. There are two entrances to Beacon Rock State Park. The first one you come to is on the south side of the highway and leads to the boat launch and day-use area. There is a parking lot on the south side of the highway just past this entrance which is an easier access to the Beacon Rock trail. The other entrance for the camping area and trails is on the north side of the highway from this parking lot.

To Spring Creek Hatchery State Park: Continue east on Highway 14 for approximately 26 miles. The park is on the southside of the highway. Once you turn into the park, the day use parking lot comes before the parking lot to the hatchery.

To Doug’s Beach: Back on Highway 14, continue east for about 17.5 miles to Doug’s Beach. The parking is along the south side of the highway.

To Columbia Hills State Park: Again, head east on Highway 14 for 7 miles to Columbia Hills State Park. There are several entrances to the park. The first on you come to is on the north side of the highway and will take to you the ranch buildings of the Dalles Mountain Ranch – stay on Dalles Mountain Rd until you get to the buildings. The second entrance will be short distance beyond on the south side of the highway and leads to the boat ramp, camping, day use and the petroglyph exhibit. A little further along the highway is the parking are for Horsethief Butte on the south, then the Oak trails on the north.

To Maryhill State Park: continue on Highway 14 for 16 miles. Turn right (south) onto Highway 97, follow for 1.5 miles to the park.

Westward Ho! Part 2

Many heeded the call born out of an ideology that owning land would lead to independence and virtue which in turn would make the nation strong and through “Manifest Destiny” it was an American’s obligation to take to the edge of the continent our great experiment in liberty. Young men and old, women and children all migrated west across the great plains to the fabled riches of the west with dreams of farms, ranches, timber, minerals, and a chance for freedom to choose their own destiny. It was a dream worth dying for.

One-thousand settlers journeyed out from Missouri in 1843 to start the great migration of Euro-Americans heading west to find their small piece of freedom. Each year after, more wagon trains took the 4-6 month journey across the plains surviving illness, hunger, drought, and the violent storms of the American plains. Their journey took them through raging rivers and over treacherous mountain ranges to California and the Oregon Territory. Between 1841 and 1856, more than 350,000 settlers made their way to the west coast. Those early settlers were often alone in the wilderness, carving a homestead out of the thick forests of the Pacific Northwest and south into California. Their closest neighbors could be more than a day’s ride away or, more likely, they were the native Americans whose lands Euro-Americans settled upon.

This is a road trip that explores the experiences of these early settlers in the Pacific Northwest.

As settlers moved into the area, they were met by forests thick and vibrant with life. Douglas-firs and Western Red Cedars towering overhead with an understory of thick Salal and Sword Fern could give a person used to the more open forests of the east claustrophobia. And the consistent rains that nourish the plant life could give the most joyous person melancholy. That rich fertile land would make for a rich fertile farm. The timber from these massive trees would make millionaires out of paupers. Soon the land was tilled and planted. Homes and barns sprang up and the forest was kept at bay.

Just a few miles from I-5 is one of the few remaining stands of low land old growth forest in Washington at Lewis and Clark State Park. In an effort to preserve old growth forests, these 600 acres was set aside from development and continues to teach us about the Pacific Northwest forest ecosystem before settlers began to tame the wilderness. With over 5 miles of hiking trails and 8 miles of multi-use trails, there’s no shortage of opportunity to explore. I enjoy spending time on the Trail of the Deer and the Old Growth Forest Trail. Check out my tips on photographing forests.

Just a few miles from Lewis and Clark State Park stands a small unpretentious cabin, a replica of the home of John R. and Matilda Jackson. The original Jackson house is thought to have been the 1^st Euro-American structure built north of the Columbia River. John called the farm The Highlands and together he and Matilda raised 7 children in their modest home. They would soon come to find that on the frontier, a home isn’t just a home. The Highlands would become a way station along the Cowlitz Road between Oregon City and Olympia, a post office, hotel, tavern, grocery store and courthouse. John himself was more than a husband, father and farmer – he became a sheriff, assessor, tax collector, territory representative and a justice of the peace. To make civilization work in the wilderness, one had to wear many hats.

The park is small but with plenty of opportunity to photograph the cabin among the trees. Look for the small details of the building materials – while the cabin is a reconstruction of the original building, much of the techniques and materials represent what was used in the 1840’s to 1850’s. Tours of the cabin can be arranged in advance by calling 360-864-2643.

Our last park looks at how fervently migrants believed in their dreams and the lengths they would go to fulfill them. This story starts with a young man and his excitement over his family and their religious followers’ decision to move to the fertile lands of the Willapa Hills in what is now SW Washington. Willie hoped to drive one of the oxen teams across the prairie and worked so hard he gained the respect of the rest of the group and was awarded the lead oxen team. Sadly just a few weeks before departure, Willie became ill and died. But no one wanted to leave Willie behind, so his father built a casket lined with lead, filled it with alcohol and Willie’s corpse, placed the casket in the lead wagon and traveled across the plains into the Oregon Territory. Once they arrived at this place that Willie dreamt of living, they finally laid him to rest.

Willie’s actual gravesite is inaccessible, but a wayside along the highway tells his story – and the story of the thousands of migrants who believed that their destiny could be written in the promise of land in the frontier of a young nation writing its own destiny.

Directions from I-5 north or south: (mileages are approximate)

To Lewis and Clark State Park: Take exit 68, highway 12 E, and turn east. In 3 miles, turn right onto Jackson Highway. In 2 miles, enter Lewis and Clark State Park. The day use area will be on your right and the parking area here is seasonally closed. On your left is the Environmental Learning Center and the multi-use trails.

To Jackson House State Park Heritage Site: Head back to highway 12 along the Jackson Highway. In 2 miles the park will be on your right. (You passed the cabin on your way to Lewis and Clark State Park).

To Willie Keil’s Grave State Park: Head back to highway 12 and turn left towards I-5. Merge onto I-5 northbound. Take exit 77, highway 6, west toward Pe Ell. Continue west on highway 6 for 23 miles. Look for the pull-out with the interpretive sign on your left.

Vulcan's Lair

Vulcan’s Lair is a fun add on to your drive to Portland and beyond as both park are within 20 miles of I-5 and offer wonderful examples of wild geologic forces that built the world and laid foundation for our beautiful state. Of the nearly 20 volcanoes that run parallel to the coast in the cascade range extending from California to southern British Columbia, Washington is home to 5: Mt Baker, Glacier Peak, Mt Rainier, Mt St Helens, and Mt Adams. But according to geologist Nick Zenter, there is plenty of evidence that these 5 are the youngest in a family of even more ancient volcanoes. This road trip introduces you to the most recent and most active of all the cascade volcanoes and one very old eruption.

So, head south with me and we’ll pull off the highway near Castlerock to visit Seaquest State Park and views of Mt St Helens. The main portion of Seaquest is across the road from where we’re exploring which is the Silver Lake Mt St Helens Visitor Center and nature trail. If you have the time, the lush forest across the street (easy access by an underground tunnel), is well worth the visit. But on this trip, we’re here to see volcanoes.

Five dollars will get you in to see the exhibits and other programs in the visitor center. Displays of the history of the area before and after the 1980 eruption discuss the interactions between humans, the fertile lands in the area, and the often-disruptive peak. I like heading down into the model volcano to understand more about the geology and ingredients needed for an eruption like the one that occurred 38 years ago. Stop in the theater for a short movie about the eruption and the destructive forces before heading out to see the (for now) quiet volcano.

From the visitor center, make your way towards the lake and a looped trail that meanders along boardwalks connecting small islets in the marshy areas of the lake. From the board walk and trail you will have views of the now collapsed mountain – if it’s a clear day. Create depth in your images by placing the marsh vegetation in the foreground, find interesting lines or unique foliage that help lead the viewer’s eye to the often-snowy mountain. There are several good spots to photograph the mountain and you walk along the path.

Once done with the boardwalk trail, hop back in your car to continue south to the little town of Battle Ground and the little nearly perfect circle of a lake there. 7700 years ago, a cluster of volcanoes in Oregon erupted and in the aftermath of the explosion a lake formed in the leftover caldera. Crater Lake is considered to be one of the bluest clearest lakes in North America. And is well worth the drive to see it. But just north of Vancouver, WA you can see a miniature caldera lake even older than Crater Lake.

In an event called the Boring Lava Volcanics, the eruptions left a small caldera at the foot of the cascades about 100,000 years ago. The caldera filled with water to become a miniature Crater Lake except without the blue water and Wizard Island. But the depression is a sweet surprise in the forested landscape. Several trails encircle the lake to let you experience the terrain left over from the more active volcanic periods. The trails closer to the lake edge hike past volcanic rocks, remnants of the eruptions so long ago. Higher, on the crater rim, the forest is thick with vine maples that in the late fall bathe the park in a yellow glow. Stop long enough for a picnic on the lake’s shore and watch families fish from the dock before heading on your way.

Directions from Olympia (mileages are approximate):

To Seaquest State Park: Drive south on I-5 for 55 miles to exit 49 and highway 504 east. Head east for 6 miles to the park. The Mt Saint Helens Visitor Center and boardwalk are on the south side of the highway. The campground and wooded hiking trails are on the north side of the highway. There is a pedestrian underpass that links both sides of the park.

To Battle Ground Lake State Park: Leave Seaquest Park and head west on highway 504 back to I-5 south. Continue on I-5 south for 38 miles to exit 11, highway 502 east to the town of Battle Ground. Continue on highway 502 for 6 miles to town and drive through town. Turn left on NE Grace Ave. In ½ mile turn right on NE 10^th St and continue on NE Heisson Road which turns into NE 244^th St then then NE Palmer Road. After all that, turn left on NE 249^th St and the park.

River of Eagles

Pack a picnic and get an early start, for our Nation’s national symbol is at the heart of this trip to the Skagit Valley. At just 46 miles from start to finish you’ll have plenty of time to stop at all the way-sides to look for Bald Eagles. You can find eagles here anytime of the year, but your best bet to photograph these gorgeous raptors is between the end of November to the beginning of March so make sure you bundle up and bring your longest lens.

Bald Eagles migrate into the Skagit River Valley during the winter to feed on spawning salmon battling their way upstream to end their life cycle and nourish another. The eagle numbers are so great here that the towns in the Skagit Valley host an Eagle Festival every year and wildlife spotters help tourists identify and understand these great raptors. That’s one of the reasons I love this trip – all the little waysides that will get you close enough to really watch eagles roost and hunt or scavenge.

Our first stop on this trip is on Padilla Bay not too far from the mouth of the Skagit River at a little park named Bay View State Park. Padilla Bay and its mud flats filled with tasty bird treats (insects and small marine life) are well known in birding circles. While looking for eagles roosting high in the trees, keep an eye out for wintering water birds in the bay or Great Blue Herons perched on the shore. Just north of the park is the Breazeale Padilla Bay Interpretive Center. Swing by to learn more about the role the area plays in the healthy eco-system.

Thirty miles east along the Skagit River, just off highway 20, is Rasar State Park. Perfectly situated along a stretch of wide shallow water, eagles love to roost in the trees looking for the perfect salmon to snack on and screech at each other. From the parking lot, hike down through a meadow with views of Sauk Mountain and listen for the high-pitched screechy call in the trees above. Once you get to the river, walk easterly and look up. Eagles enjoy roosting in the leaf-bare alders here – better fish viewing for them and better bird viewing for you.

As your morning winds down, hop back in your car to drive another 16 miles east on highway 20 to Rockport State Park. While there isn’t river access from this park, the thick old growth forest aides in keeping the river healthy so salmon and Bald Eagles return every year. Check the calendar for one of the ranger led walks through the forest ecosystem to learn more about the interconnectedness of the forest, river, salmon, and eagles.

If you want to continue your adventure, keep heading east on highway 20 through the towns of Rockport and Marblemount. There are several stops along the way with opportunities to photograph eagles. The first is in Rockport at the Howard Miller Steelhead Park where you will find an eagle interpretive center and can take part in interpretive walks. Further along the road at milepost 101, a small park has open views to allow for eagle viewing. And in Marblemount, head across the river to the boat access where you can walk a trail leading down river a bit and eagles watching from trees. 

Directions from Mount Vernon (mileages are approximate):

To Bay View State Park: In Mount Vernon, follow highway 536 through town to the junction with highway 20 in 7 miles. Head west on highway 20. In 2 miles turn north onto Bay View Edison Rd and drive 1.5 miles to the park. The entrance is one your right then you’ll need to take an immediate left into the to drive under the road to the day use area and the shoreline. The Padilla Bay Education Center is just a half mile up the road from the park.

To Rasar State Park: Drive back into the town of Bay View then head east on Josh Wilson Rd. Stay on this road for 8 miles to the junction with I-5. Head north on I-5 for a mile then take the exit to Cook Rd. Follow Cook Rd through 2 round-abouts. The first one, take the second exit. The second one, take the third exit, this will have you driving on highway 20 eastbound. Follow highway 20 for 15.5 miles to Lusk Rd and turn right. Turn left onto Cape Horn Rd and in 1 mile you come to the park. On the left is the group camp area and the right is the campground and day use area with the trail along the river.

To Rockport State Park: Head back to Cape Horn Rd and turn right (east) then turn left onto Russell Rd. This will take you back to highway 20. Continue east on highway 20 for 13.5 miles. Access to the park is on the north side of the highway, but the park spans the highway.

My Favorite Images of 2018

Another year comes to an end and we all seem to look back on the previous 12-month increment with reflection. Reflection of what happened in the year and reflection on what the future holds. As I look back, I think on all the friends, old and new, who helped to write my year’s stories. Of the laughter shared, the tears cried, and the bonds we will always carry with us. So, each of these images has a story to tell, of what I came to treasure I this passing year and sometimes a life-long story of friendship.

January – One of my favorite images from this past year is also one of my first. It is a story of trying something new, of a challenge offered and accepted. When the notification for a dance photography meet-up showed up in my email, this nature-girl and flower photographer knew she’d be out of her element. But I signed up anyway and found joy in the simple beauty of a beautiful human form. I was only able to meet with this group one other time, but I hope to meet with them more in the future – the continuing challenge of stepping away from comfort.

February – It’s taken a long time for me to feel comfortable with promoting myself as a photographer and writer. We all know how real that imposter syndrome is and I had been feeling it for some time as I struggled with my book project and wondering if anybody would care. This beam of sunlight was an awakening. This shaft of light reminded me of all the reasons my book is important – that it is not the grand images of wide landscapes with startling color so often searched for by so many photographers that persuade people to love their public lands – it’s these intimate moments of a simple shaft of light through a misty forest that touches the soul.

March – The boat tossed and tipped under my unsteady legs as I gripped the railing tightly, my heart skipping a beat as each wave hit us broadside. It had been since childhood that I’d been in a boat this small on the open ocean. My cousin casually walked towards the front of the boat and I wished for her confidence on sea. Somewhere I knew the boat wouldn’t capsize, I just needed to remember that and soon, on cautious feet, I followed her. We were here with her granddaughters to see whales something I had yet to see on the few whale watching trips I’d been on. But the guide promised us whales. And whales we were shown.

April – In all my travels documenting the state parks, I have come across a few places within the parks that touch my soul deep to an inner core. The places are unshakable in my psyche and I revel in knowing they are there, waiting for my return. This madrone grove at Miller Peninsula State Park is one of these places. There is something about the madrone tree with its vibrant green leaves and red peeling bark that exposes a lime green under-bark. And seeing so many grouped together on this hillside has me wishing for a chair to lounge in, so I can look up and dream the day away.

May – Three women rocket scientists walking to demonstrate their final project at the University of Washington. Do I really need to say more?

June – In the far reaches of southeast Washington is a little park on a hill overlooking the Grande Ronde river valley. Each spring, the sun paints the park with brilliant colors of wildflowers. If I could be here every June to see this display, I would. This June I got a little more than I had hoped for: colorful wildflowers, gorgeous sunset colors, and a sense of courage I never thought I’d need. For I shared this meadow with a meandering black bear – the most beautiful bear I had ever seen. He was a tawny brown with a jet-black face. And thankfully far more afraid of me than I was of him. We both survived the encounter and I wish him well in his bear life.

July – The father and his adult son pushed their kayaks into the bay as the sun slid closer to the horizon. Quietly they paddled out as my friends and I watched from the beach. We could hear the son tell his father, “This is a great idea, Dad.” We sat on driftwood chatting quietly as the sky darkened then turned to shades of yellow and orange. From across the bay we heard the excited words of a son and father sharing a special moment of kayaking in liquid gold. I looked to my friends, each of them I met on a trail somewhere and thought, “Yeah, this IS a pretty special moment.”

August – As kids we fought and most likely tried to kill each other at some point. Maybe not on purpose. But that’s what siblings do. We pinch. We poke. We punch. And at some point, as we grow, we become friends. I always say, the only time my family got along was when we were camping. My sister and I learned to bond over that. Camping together is easy as we are comfortable in our self-reliance. She is slower on the trail and often in camp, but that only gives me more time to photograph flowers. I fly by the seat of my pants too often, but she’s great at making a plan. Summer seems empty without a trip with her in it.

September – This was a year for trying something new because the old habits weren’t getting me anywhere. In January I joined a writing group to kick myself in the butt and get writing on the book. And I met some of the most amazing people, each with their own backstory and motivations. I admired them all with their ability to tell a story, write a poem, and be vulnerable to the process. We found ways to explore our writing, our friendship and ourselves. A few of us took a trip to Lake Quinault for a writing weekend. With clouds slung low over the forested hills we wrote, we cried, we laughed, then we wrote some more.

October – My mother died too young. Leaving behind two young women still searching for a sense of self. At times her loss is immeasurable even after 30 years. Then there are times where I feel her presence, a whisper on the wind, an agate on the beach, the glimpse of an owl. Mom loved owls and collected figurines and pictures. During my divorce, mother came to me in an owl-shaped pillow I just couldn’t let go of. The comfort I felt from a silly little pillow helped get me through some very tough episodes. So now, I like collecting little owl figurines and pictures.

November – Photographic destinations: Yosemite, Blue Ridge Mountains, Yellowstone, Oklahoma? I had never really thought of Oklahoma as a photographic destination before – it is a fly-over state after all. But there I was, booking a flight to a destination on a whim and a photo I had seen from another photographer. I planned and planned then threw all that out the window as I explored a part of the country I had never been to before. It was a reminder of the journey I find myself on – to show that there is beauty everywhere, you just have to look.

December – As with January, my last favorite photo is one of the last photos I created in 2018. And I notice that Fields Spring State Park made the list twice. On the last days of the year, my whale-watching cousin with my camping sister and a trail buddy (all I need was a writing friend to really tie the year together) packed ourselves into a little sedan and drove to SE Washington for some snowshoeing and solitude. As we explored the winter trails, snow fell on the Blue Mountains with just a hint of sun. It was the perfect blend of winter and friends.

To you and yours, I wish you a story-filled 2019.

Westward Ho! Part 1

As we remember back through our childhood history lessons and the Euro-American migration west crossing the Mississippi Rivers, through the great plains and over the Rocky Mountains, you might recall that there were basically 4 stages of population influx into Indian lands.  First, we saw trappers and miners exploring the wilderness. As interest in settling the west grew, forts were built to help tame the wilderness and protect the settlers from the Native Americans whose homelands they took. Homesteaders followed closely on the heels of the army, they built towns that would support their agrarian business. Finally the great iron roads of the railroad barons began crossing the plains bringing in a greater number of Euro-American settlers and the wilderness of the west was considered tamed.

It was a time of great changes and great troubles as the accomplishments of one people did not benefit all people. Looking at history comes with its own challenges but a historian friend of mine often reminds me that it is a trap with no clear answers or escape to judge yesterday’s actions with today’s sensibilities. All we can really do is observe and report, watch trends and tendencies with the hope of learning from the past and not passing judgment.

Fort Simcoe was built in 1856 near a fresh spring used as a gathering place for the Yakama Indians. The translated name for the area means bubbling water. I can imagine trappers introducing the Yakama Nation to Euro-Americans here. But it is the fort that visitors come to see, and right now I have no proof that ever occurred. The fort was originally built to keep the peace between the native people and settlers and this fertile area was coveted by both populations. So the army being the army, settled the matter and built a fort. Once the treaty between the Yakama and United States was ratified in 1859, the army abandoned the fort to the Bureau of Indian Affairs and it became a controversial boarding school for Yakama children. It’s a hard history to understand, but the beauty of Fort Simcoe will show you why it was a treasured place for the Yakama people.

The fort sits on a hill overlooking the fertile lands of the Yakima River Valley. While most of the buildings are reconstructed – the officer’s quarters and a block house a distance from the main fort are original. Enlisted barracks, jails, block house, and interpretive center are reconstructed in the construction techniques of the time. The Officer’s Quarters are styled in Gothic Revival with high pitched dormers to add a perfect contrast to the rolling hills of Eastern Washington. You can also explore the officer’s quarters and the park has created styled vignettes in each of the rooms.

I like focusing in on the details of the buildings and construction techniques. Try to record the details that help record the era. The vignettes in the officer’s quarters are blocked off as in most historical homes but I’ll use a longer lens and a high ISO to zoom in on the settings and furnishings.

A mile-long trail around the park takes you through shrub steppe and oak forest, giving you an idea of what the land may have looked like before Euro-Americans settled here.

We’ll next drive 72 miles north and a few years beyond Fort Simcoe to 1875 and Olmstead Place Historical State Park to photograph life on a frontier homestead. The Olmsteads settled along the Altapes Creek in Kittitas Valley. Their modest cabin soon grew into storage and animal sheds. As the prosperity through cattle grew in the region so did the Olmsteads. The homestead now includes a pioneer cabin, original out buildings, a more modern barn and house, plus a heritage garden filled with colorful flowers.

The out buildings are filled with agricultural implements from the 19^th and early 20^th centuries while the cabin is filled with home making supplies so the visitor can imagine life on the farm on the frontier. Use whatever lens you’re comfortable with and look for patterns and textures in the details.

We’ll need to speed forward a few years to 1909 and 35 miles west to the Chicago, Milwaukee, St Paul and Pacific Railroad South Cle ElumRail Yard – I just call it the South Cle Elum Rail Yard. As Railroads began to cross the expanse of our nation, a greater number of Euro-Americans made the trek to cities large and small to open libraries, schools, and businesses not entirely dependent on the agrarian culture. The beginning of the industrialization of the west began – very few areas of the west were considered frontier.

Now the South Cle Elum Rail Yard is managed by the Cascade Rail Foundation in partnership with Washington State Parks. It is what is called an affiliated site as it has been preserved through funds and administration of the Washington State Parks Commission. The Milwaukee Road is now a mostly paved trail  - the Palouse to Cascades Trail - stretching from North Bend to Vantage with plans to extend the trail when possible.

But our focus is on the old depot. South Cle Elum became a division point where locomotives were serviced and crews switched on and off. Passengers and freight could also board or depart the trains in the points. A short interpretive trail circles a meadow where you can see some of the old foundations of structures needed to run a depot such as the roundhouse and water tank. The depot is open with exhibits and stop by Smokey’s Bar-B-Que next door in the depot for dinner to end your day.

Directions from Yakima, 106 miles between parks

To get to Fort Simcoe from Yakima: Drive south on I-82 for 7.5 miles to Lateral A Road. Turn right and follow Lateral A Rd for 10 miles to Fort Road. Turn right on Fort road and follow to White Swan in 14 miles. Turn Left on Signal Peak Road then another right onto Fort Simcoe Road. The park will be on your left.

Fort Simcoe to Olmstead Place: Go backwards from the above directions and pass through Yakima on I-82 heading north until the Thrall Road exit just before the junction with I-90. Turn left onto Thrall Road and another left onto Number 6 Road. In 4 miles, turn right onto Kittitas Hiway and follow to the park on your right.

Olmstead Place to South Cle Elum Railyard: Head back out to Kittitas Highway and turn left, follow into Ellensburg to Canyon Road. Turn left on Canyon Rd then another left onto I-90 westbound. In 25 miles, take exit 84 from I-90. Turn right onto Oakes Ave in Cle Elum follow to 1^st Ave then turn Left. Make another left onto S Cle Elum Way. Follow S Cle Elum way into South Cle Elum then turn right onto Madison Ave. Turn left onto 6^th and another right onto Milwaukee Ave. The depot and park will be on your left.