Petrified Forest

10/6/09

In the deserts of eastern Arizona is a magical colorful place - Petrified Forest National Park. We were hurtling down the interstate late in the day as we came upon the park that straddles the highway. Since we weere herre to explore, we decided to make a quick drive through as much of the park as we could with at least one stop for a nature hike.

Our first stop overlooked the painted desert unit of the park. I was immediately struck by how much the colors reminded me of the Painted Hills in Eastern Oregon. In the late afternoon sun, they seemed to radiate with color. We hastened our way along to our next stop, pueblan ruins and petroglyphs. Our view was of flat prairie extending seemingly forever. I felt uneasy the first time I had ever seen the prairie-lands in their immensity. I grew up in the forest-cloistered northwest where our next view was always obstructed by another tree. As I lived longer in the midwest and its prairies, I began to recognize the beauty in them. This afternoon, the extensive views were relaxing, a soothing presence to my soul.

Up to this point, we hadn't seen much of the petrified forest but as we drove along we began to see the ancient logs, the wood fibers replaced by silicone particles lying about the eroded hills. It was here we decided to get out of the car for a stroll along a pathway through eroded hills that slowly exposed the fallen trees. The lowering sun cast dramatic shadows along the hillsides highlighting the cracks and crevices, exposing trees still embedded in the sandstone. It was a fascinating place that deserves more than the little time we devoted to it. I can only hope we are able to return soon.

Walnut Canyon

10/6/09

We love finding those little out of the way treasures while road-tripping. Sometimes it's a country road filled with bucolic scenes. Sometimes it's a little known national treasure. Sunset Canyon the day before was one of those. And now, just off interstate 40, we came across Walnut Canyon - a community of cliff dwellings in a quaint, colorful, bucolic canyon.

The native Americans who settled here came from closer to the volcano called Sunset Crater. Driven in fear of the earth to a better place with less fear. They found Walnut Canyon and as we walked around the cliff dwellings, we could understand why this seemed like an idyllic place to live. In fact, Michael began looking for a nice piece of real estate to build his own cliff dwelling.

Being near the interstate, people visited here more than Sunset Crater. Yet we had most of our hike to ourselves. The trail wound its way along the cliff walls and into alcoves perfect for building a home. Partial walls were left and fire blackened walls. We could look across the canyon to other dwellings built between the sandstone stria. We could have stayed there all day, but the open road called us along. So with hearts not sad but thoughtful, we left to find a picnic spot and then back to the interstate.

Flagstaff & Sedona

10/5/09

While planning our trip, Michael & I decided we wanted to see the communities of Flagstaff and Sedona. Both were places we wanted to see as they were in our dreams of being places we might desire to live.

Flagstaff came first on our journey out of the Grand Canyon. I had been thinking a lot about this Arizona mountain town for several years. I was wholly disappointed. This was not the quaint mountain town I had been dreaming about, but an average place with sprawl and without personality. Needless to say, we didn't stay long.

To drive to Sedona, we went south through Oak Creek Canyon. From the rim as we started do to the end where we came out to Sedona I knew that this was the place for me. Close canyon walls, pine forest along oak creek, multi-colored sandstone. I was loving it and here I wanted to stay.

And then we entered Sedona. If there is a more perfect setting for a town I can't think of it. The sandstone formations surrounding town made this little piece of heaven feel as if we had driven into a faerie land. I was smitten.

Grand Canyon

10/4-10/5/09

My hands rested lightly on the rail. In front of me a hole deep and wide filled with the colors of the ages. I was here. On the edge. The most famous hole in the world. A gash so wide, so long it takes days to travel the rim or to float down the Colorado River that tirelessly carved this masterpiece that we know as the Grand Canyon. I couldn't stop the smile from my lips or the satisfaction in my heart.

I wanted to drink in the scene in front of me - the color, the lines, the light. The mesas and ridges faded off into the distance as the sun faded in the sky. This was a moment of discovery and I wanted it to last. And I wanted to share it. The light finally faded from the sky and we made our way to find camp - to set up the tent in the dark and make a dinner I was glad we couldn't really see. At least it went down all right.

Predawn and I found myself walking along the road to the lookout closed to all vehicles except the shuttle which hadn't started its run. I was there alone. Surely there must be someone else here in the early morning cold and wind. No one. I wandered along the rim to see where I wanted to be as the sun rose above the horizon. It was the alpenglow on the mesas that stopped me in my tracks. They seemed to vibrate with color and light. I alone was its witness. A discovery for myself, a discovery to share.

Later, after a visit to the Kolb Studio, we rode the shuttle to Hermit's rest for a hike back. Glimpses of the river below made us yearn for a trip of a lifetime. What I would give for that trip. To see the canyon from such a view. To explore the side canyons. To explore the ages.

We took a side trail, the trail that was replaced by the new wider and paved trail that was farther from the rim. We wanted to be closer, to see over the edge. An amazing experience to see down into the canyon while hanging onto a tree clinging to the edge - your only support from falling in. Then below us a fox darted along the edge. Something we would never had seen if we had stayed on the paved trail. He darted into a crevasse then back out and around the corner. Now that was a great little experience.

As we soaked in the day's experience over lunch, a large dark shaped floated on the winds just above the canyon rim. A condor. How great! Condors drifting on the canyon's currents. I about jumped out of my seat to run for that shot. We saw them after lunch basking in the warmth of the sun, wings outstretched just below us. I was ready to stay longer, but our whirlwind trip spurred us on.

Fall Road Trip 2009

Four Corners, 10/2-10/9/09

There is a fabled land of strange yet beautiful landscapes. A place I visit every so often. Not nearly enough. Each image reminds me of what I love about the southwest and why I desire to return. I come from a land that is green and moist. I dream of a land that is brown and dry. The grass is always greener? For me it's either brown I desire or no grass at all.

Michael & I decided to hit a few places on this road trip that were either old favorites or something one or the both of us had never seen. Makes for a long list and an exhaustive trip, so we slimmed it down a bit and still almost tried to put too much in to our trip. We ended up cutting a few things out along the way and added a special place or two.

Read on and you'll visit four amazing states and places that mark them as extra special.

Antelope Canyon

3/30/07

When you've been saturated with images of a special place and then finally make your own pilgrimage there one of two things can happen. Either you stand in awe that here you stand in this very special place, or it just won't stand up to you expectations. Happily I can say that I stood in awe of Antelope Canyon - at least the lower canyon impressed me, the upper one left a bit to be desired.

This day at least started out bright. Charly took us first to the lower canyon, however the steam from the coal plant on the hill above sufficiently blocked the sun from view. We meandered through the canyon admiring the twisted and curves, the striations and colors - hoping the steam would drift away and the sun would shine in on us. And finally our patience paid out, the sun streamed into the canyon reflecting off the walls and sand, to create that wonderful glowing effect I had so wanted to see in the previous slot canyons I had adventured in - that I had witnessed in Bryce.

Around mid-day, we made our way to the upper canyon and the circus that ensues there. Seems most people head to the upper canyon - this is were the iconic images of Antelope Canyon are taken. The undulating walls, the shafts of lights streaming from above, the open passages. But because of these images, people flock to this spot to huddle around each shaft of light as the tour guides throw dirt in the air to make the shaft of light stand out against the walls. There was yelling, screaming, pushing, and a bit of shoving. I somehow got mingled into the crowd and as the party ensued, I glanced around hoping his calm frame could pull me out of the madness. I finally broke free of the crowd and made my own way quietly following Charly through the canyon.

Later in the afternoon, we made out way back to the lower canyon for a few last minute shots. A tribal member, wandered through the canyon, playing his guitar - serenading the few photographers, exploring this less visited canyon. It seemed to add a special touch to the afternoon, the day, and my trip.

Canyon X

3/29/07

When the four of us tourists asked our guide, Jackson Bridges, why this canyon was named Canyon X. He replied that they were looking for a name on the way to the site. They came up with Canyon X because it was the mysterious canyon.

Few people go to Canyon X. Charly and Overland Canyon Tours, who have the rights to lead tours here, limit the number of people they take to this out of the way slot canyon to help keep its pristine appearance. And so it remains a bit mysterious.

But it is worth a mention, for the twists and turns within the canyon rival those I would later see in Antelope Canyons. If only we had a bright day to see the walls glow in all their wonder. And if you are hearty, then the trip might be worth it. The road is not an easy one, criss-crossed with washes every rain seems to take a little more earth and road with it. Nor is the hike into the canyon easy, a descent through an unimproved crevasse.

Even though the day turned chilly and I needed to take refuge in my new friends' RV to warm up, the trip was well worth it to me. Jackson is quite a knowledgeable fellow (check out his website http://www.jacksonbridges.com/) and the scenery inspiring.

Roadtrip: Spring 2007

March 23-April 1

There I stood on the overpass leading the commuters from the train to their cars. I watched as the Sounder disappeared down the tracks, thinking about doing the same. I was lost in the idea of traveling on, away from the city and my daily grind. Where would the train take me? Where could it take me? I shook myself from my thoughts to follow the rest of the commuters fighting their ways to their cars.

That was in October. From there, I told Michael I needed a vacation - to somewhere - in the Spring. March would be nice. Somewhere I had never been before. Sadly, after changing jobs, he didn't have the vacation time so wouldn't be able to join me. However, he encouraged me to go on my own, explore the world and have a wonderful adventure. But where to go?

Should I take the train to Montana as a friend suggested? I could play in the snow-covered hills outside of Glacier National Park. But then I really got to thinking. If I head somewhere in March, I would want to head south - to warmer climates. Get some sun, warm up the bones. South was where I turned. After reading and article on Glen Canyon and the Grand Staircase-Escalante area, my mind was made up. I would tour Southern Utah & Northern Arizona for a week near the end of March, a place I had never before ventured into.

In the following days, I will tell you all about my adventures in the prairies, canyons, and plateuas of Utah and Arizona. I saw Golden Eagles larger than life, more Mule Deer than I could count, and a Bobcat running across the road. I made new friends (including a black kitty who kept me warm on one very cold night). I hiked into canyons of all shapes and sizes, over slick rock and through arches and drove over 3000 miles round trip.

So come back for further installments of the fun and fascinating RoadTrip: Spring 2007.