Zion

3/30/07-3/31/07

I arrived at Zion just as the sun was setting. I knew I would need to get to the campground as soon as possible - this is where I planned to stay but Zion fills up rather quickly on the weekends. And sure enough, I backed into one of the last two campsites available - handicapped. Hey! The campground host said I could. My plan was to take a few little day hikes then start my long journey home. The ranger at the visitor's center gave me a few ideas including Emerald Pools, Weeping Wall, and the River Walk to get a good feel of the park.

I visited the park on a Saturday, the last day before Zion went into their busy season. I would hate to tell them this but if their busy season starts on April 1st and April 1st is a Sunday, they had better darn well fire up the shuttle buses the day before the busy season. By 10 in the morning, cars were lining the road at the trail heads - not a parking spot was found. I was able to slip into the Emerald Pools and the Weeping Wall, but there was no way I could get into the River Walk - there were just too many people, too many cars.

However, the beauty of Zion is remarkable. I found the scenery more of a reflection of what I had seen before in New Mexico and dry high mountain areas. Unlike Capitol Reef and Bryce, where I gazed in wonder at the desert and sandstone formations, I admired Zion for its comforting trees and high valley walls.

As I left Zion (past a line of cars at the fee station a 1/2 mile long), I realized I would need to plan vacations for the next 10 years to fully explore just the places I had seen on this 1 trip.

Springtime Snow

Rattlesnake Ridge 4/15/07 8 miles

Continuing on our conditioning for climbing Mt St Helens, Michael & I decided to traverse Rattlesnake Ridge near North Bend. This hike is 11 miles from start to finish - from the east end of the mountain to the west with a 2000 foot elevation gain. Not the conditioning hike Mt Si can be, but a good stamina booster. However, we didn't expect the late season snowfall that would contribute to our turning around.

Our plan was to start at the Rattlesnake Ledge trail head and continue to the other end at Snoqualmie Point. The last time we hiked the trail all the way through, the WTA had still been working on it. I was interested in seeing what they had done. We saw the dusting of snow atop Rattlesnake and the other mountains surrounding North Bend as we drove to the trail head. I thought this might make for an interesting hike.

Our initial climb to the ledge went smoothly, fog had settled in around the lake which gave the new green of the forest a soft quality. A few birds could be heard calling back to one another, possibly catching up on overnight happenings. The view that greeted us from the rocky ledge was partially obscured as the clouds drifted about the mountains - Mt Si and the other mountains across the valley played peek-a-boo with us.

We continued up the mountain. It wasn't too long before we reached the snow we had seen from the highway. Already the glimpses of sun had started melting what snow rested in the branches overhead. The resulting melt felt as if we were hiking in the rain - big heavy drops splashed on our packs, arms and hats. Every now and then a small frigid clump of wet soggy snow would let loose invariably hitting my neck or ear.

But that wasn't the worst of it. When we had hiked Mt Si the week before, there was no snow at the top. Mt Si is higher than Rattlesnake. We didn't envision the amount of snow we would run into on the trail. Approximately two feet of snow still lay in wide trail that once was a road. We were not prepared for this. On top of the snow on the ground, more snow had begun to fall around us. After a brief discussion, we decided not to chance it and turned around to head back to Rattlesnake Ledge and the lake below. Our day of happy springtime hiking cut short by snowfall.

Antelope Canyon

3/30/07

When you've been saturated with images of a special place and then finally make your own pilgrimage there one of two things can happen. Either you stand in awe that here you stand in this very special place, or it just won't stand up to you expectations. Happily I can say that I stood in awe of Antelope Canyon - at least the lower canyon impressed me, the upper one left a bit to be desired.

This day at least started out bright. Charly took us first to the lower canyon, however the steam from the coal plant on the hill above sufficiently blocked the sun from view. We meandered through the canyon admiring the twisted and curves, the striations and colors - hoping the steam would drift away and the sun would shine in on us. And finally our patience paid out, the sun streamed into the canyon reflecting off the walls and sand, to create that wonderful glowing effect I had so wanted to see in the previous slot canyons I had adventured in - that I had witnessed in Bryce.

Around mid-day, we made our way to the upper canyon and the circus that ensues there. Seems most people head to the upper canyon - this is were the iconic images of Antelope Canyon are taken. The undulating walls, the shafts of lights streaming from above, the open passages. But because of these images, people flock to this spot to huddle around each shaft of light as the tour guides throw dirt in the air to make the shaft of light stand out against the walls. There was yelling, screaming, pushing, and a bit of shoving. I somehow got mingled into the crowd and as the party ensued, I glanced around hoping his calm frame could pull me out of the madness. I finally broke free of the crowd and made my own way quietly following Charly through the canyon.

Later in the afternoon, we made out way back to the lower canyon for a few last minute shots. A tribal member, wandered through the canyon, playing his guitar - serenading the few photographers, exploring this less visited canyon. It seemed to add a special touch to the afternoon, the day, and my trip.

Canyon X

3/29/07

When the four of us tourists asked our guide, Jackson Bridges, why this canyon was named Canyon X. He replied that they were looking for a name on the way to the site. They came up with Canyon X because it was the mysterious canyon.

Few people go to Canyon X. Charly and Overland Canyon Tours, who have the rights to lead tours here, limit the number of people they take to this out of the way slot canyon to help keep its pristine appearance. And so it remains a bit mysterious.

But it is worth a mention, for the twists and turns within the canyon rival those I would later see in Antelope Canyons. If only we had a bright day to see the walls glow in all their wonder. And if you are hearty, then the trip might be worth it. The road is not an easy one, criss-crossed with washes every rain seems to take a little more earth and road with it. Nor is the hike into the canyon easy, a descent through an unimproved crevasse.

Even though the day turned chilly and I needed to take refuge in my new friends' RV to warm up, the trip was well worth it to me. Jackson is quite a knowledgeable fellow (check out his website http://www.jacksonbridges.com/) and the scenery inspiring.

Mt Si

4/7/07 8 miles

I have, for the past 10 or so years, avoided with all possible strength hiking Mt Si. I've gone up Little Si, Mt Teneriffe, Green Mtn and Rattlesnake Mtn. But to Mt Si, I gave a resounding NO. Why is that? Because everyone has done her. I referred to Si as the town ho - everyone has been on top of her so why should I? But in our quest to climb Mt St Helens in May, I made the ultimate sacrifice. I suggested climbing Mt Si.

Mt Si is used by climbers as an early season training hike. 4 miles of up followed by 4 miles of down can take it toll on you leg muscle and is considered prime hiking for conditioning your legs and lungs for larger more intensive climbs. It is not unheard of for climbers who have their hopes set on the summit of Mt Rainier or Denali in the summer, to be blasting up Mt Si in April. But there are also the casual hikers, those wanting a nice view at lunch and have heard Mt Si is a good place for that. And when I say casual hikers, I'm talking about the people who wake up in Seattle on a sunny Saturday and say, "Wow, what a beautiful day. Let's go on a hike." Which isn't to say that's a bad thing, a little spontaneous foray into the natural world is a wonderful thing for the body and soul. But what that creates is a superhighway of hikers. And if you are looking for a bit of solitude, Mt Si and it's superhighway is not where you want to be.

After my solo road trip to the southwest, this superhighway quickly became a irritant. I started grumbling almost immediately about how many people passed us, both going up and coming down. "See?" I would say. "This is why I hate this hike." At one point I even mentioned being afraid of catching some sort of hiking venereal disease. But who was I kidding? I already have the worst kind of hiking venereal disease out there (and whole hardily plan to infect as many people as possible) - Wilderness Obsessionitis. Yep, I am not happy unless I get to pee behind a tree then crawl into my sleeping bag with just the wild critters for neighbors.

In the end, I enjoyed my lunch with a view, worked my calf muscles into a knot, and felt a little more confident to climb Mt St Helens later. I won't search out Mt Si for much more enjoyment than that, but training - she serves her purpose. All I needed to do was get off my pretentious high horse and admit that once in a while something that the rest of the huddled masses enjoys can't be all that bad.

Page, Arizona

3/28/07

Page, AZ. I finally arrived. This town marked my halfway point in my time frame and it seemed to make all the difference. I no longer sorely missed Michael and my friends, although the ability to talk to Micheal gave me a bit of relief. I was able to settle for a couple of days, for my plans were to stay in Page 2 nights and explore the slot canyons with my hired guide - Charly of Overland Canyon Tours. If you are ever in Page and want to go on an adventure give Charly a call. He is a fabulous guide. Born in Weisbaden, Germany and came to Page by way of LA, he is a man at ease with the desert. Quiet, but has an easy laugh. The ordinary doesn't seem to be ordinary to him. He spent several minutes watch a caterpillar inch its way across the canyon floor as I took picture after picture of the canyon walls. I will be hiring him again and would recommend him to any who ask.

Charly met me at my campsite to go over our schedule for our tours and let me know I would have company. Perfect, a little company would be nice to have: Greg, from L.A. and Bonnie & Roy from Idaho on day 1 and then just Bonnie and Roy on day 2. Came to find out that Bonnie & Roy were camped in their RV right behind my tent - their nice warm cozy RV. Which came in very handy on Friday when the temperature dropped, as did the rain - the wind however picked up.

After our first trip to the canyons (described in a later post), Bonnie and Roy invited me in to their RV to warm up. The canyons had gotten very cold as we photographed their curves and twists. By lunch my hands were freezing and a slight shiver had set in - and I was wearing layers and fleece. I have to thank Bonnie and Roy for the comfort of their RV, a little hot chocolate, and the use of their microwave.

The campground had a permanent resident - a little black cat. My first night camp kittie stopped by my tent to welcome me to the neighborhood. The second night camp kittie decided that both he & I needed to share our warmth and he joined me in my tent for the evening. Really, I don't blame him. I awoke the next morning with my rain-fly encrusted in ice. The rain the previous day and the freezing overnight temperatures had turned my tent into a giant snow cone. Camp kittie was not interested in heading out of the tent, but I had to shove him out anyway. He didn't hold a grudge, for he came back at lunch to help us eat our sandwiches.

Page was a nice rest on the trip, with beautiful scenery both from above and below. And knowing a great guide is there makes future planning all the easier.

For Charly's website at Overland Canyon Tours go to www.overlandcanyontours.com

Wire Pass

3/28/07

Now that I had one of my hiking fears put to rest, I decided to try out another one - hiking a slot canyon. The same BLM officer who recommended the Toadstools Trail also sent me down for a hike near the Coyote Buttes area in a slot canyon named Wire Pass. Both hikes were short and fairly close together so I was more than willing to hike them both in one day before heading down to page.

It was the idea of flash floods and Aaron Ralston that unnerved me so. All my southwest hiking books warned of the dangers of flash floods. My friends who have hiked in the southwest warned of the dangers of flash floods. All throughout my trip, my obsessive brain reminded me of the dangers of flash floods. And even though, the BLM officer assured me that no rain would fall anywhere today, I kept eyeing the heavy (snow-laden) clouds above and kept an ear open for the warning sounds of rushing water.

Not that it would help once I entered the canyon itself. Then there was Aaron, the poor guy who had to cut his arm off with a pen knife after the got pinned by a boulder while hiking through a slot canyon. I knew I would never be able to do that and would lie languishing in my fate, lost forever. Or, until the next hiker came by as this seemed to be a rather popular route.

This route was easier to follow. Just meander along the wash to the narrows of Wire Pass. As I entered the pass and the walls began to close in around me, I relaxed a bit. Still concerned with my own little fears but ready to experience this place: the sandy floor strewn with rocks, the smooth-looking walls with a fine texture, the curves, the swirls. I came to a drop, several feet over a boulder wedged between the walls. Buckskin Gulch was somewhere ahead but this would have to be my turn-around. I didn't have my pen-knife with me, nor a buddy to push me up on the way out. This will need to be explored later.