Just another day at the Mountain

Pan Point, 4/26/09, 3 1/2 miles, 1400 elevation

We joined our friend Dave and a group he was leading on a snowshoe trip out at the mountain. I almost didn't head out - I spend so much time on Rainier as it's in my backyard that I get just a little bored with her. But the night before, I convinced myself to go get a day in the snow and fresh air even if it would be the same old boring area at Paradise.

The day started out normally, climbing through the snowfields behind the visitor's center. Fields that in just a few months will be covered in wildflowers, tourists and even bears. Then we got to the bottom of the hill climbing up to Panorama Point. The plan was that anyone who wanted to go up the hill would continue on with Dave - anyone who didn't want to attempt it would make a shorter loop wit Michael & I. Everyone decided to head up the hill, with Michael & I following behind to coach anyone who needed it.

It was a triumph for everyone as several of our trip members were pretty new to snowshoeing. The views were perfect - behind us stood Mt Rainier in all her glory, off to the east stretched the snowy cascades, to our south the Tatoosh Range were gnarled teeth across the valley. After resting at the top and picking up a new member for the group we circled around through the moraine areas below Muir Snowfield.

Then it was time to head back, but the snow was sloppy and hard. Going downhill would be treacherous, so came a quick lesson in glissading. And we began to slide our way back to the parking lot on our butts. Again a triumph for almost everyone as nobody had glissaded before. I personally had so much fun coming down that I was ever so happy to have changed my mind.

Pedaling in the Tulips

Skagit Valley, 4/25/09

Let me tell you. If at any time you want to see the tulip fields in the Skagit County, go by bike. A small illustration; It took us (me, Jamie, & Andy) a full hour to get off the highway in Mt Vernon, go through town and park our cars at the park on the other side of the river. Now continue with that traffic all through the tulip fields. ugh! Why not ride past all that traffic waiting to pull into the parking lots?

We spent the afternoon lazily riding from field to field, walking our bikes through the rows, catching the beauty of the fields from different perspectives. Most of the fields are free to roam through and some require a fee. So we stayed with the free fields which are in abundance.

Jamie & Andy who had never seen the tulip fields were amazed by the expanse and colors they contained. They were like children in a candy store snapping pictures here and there of every type and color of tulip and daffodil. And are looking forward to bicycling through the tulips next year.

Our Little Corner of the Planet

Washington Coastal Clean-up, 4/18/09

Another Earth Day and another beach clean-up. This year a few more of my co-workers joined us at Kalaloch for a fun day of taking care of our little corner of the planet. A couple of years ago Discover Your Northwest teamed up with Olympia National Park and a few other organizations to create the Washington Clean Coast Alliance to rid Washington's beaches of the marine debris that washes ashore every year.

It only takes everyone making small contributions to do our parts to take care of our little corners of the world.

To learn more go to the Alliance's website: http://www.coastsavers.org/index.html

Winter Storm Advisory

4/4/09

The radio warned throughout the day that a winter storm was coming. And it hit Olympia and I as we hiked the rim trail. How bad it would get would only be discovered in the morning.

Wind buffeted our tent all through the night, even though the forecast was that the winds and storm would subside by midnight. To sty warm, I stuffed several hand-warmers into my sleeping bag and curled up with Olympia, covering her with the extra blanket I had brought along. Occasionally during the night I would wake up to snow drifting through the bug mesh - blown under the rainfly by the winds. We would awake to a desert winter wonderland.

The winds had not stopped at midnight, and with all the blowing snow I wasn't certain that the snow had stopped falling. I packed up as fast as I could, but first had to empty my boots of snow that I had left in the vestibule of the tent. Both the tent and rainfly were coated with snow. Six inch drifts formed against the tent and the tires of the car. I had to stomp around in the snow to find Olympia's water dish buried.

Our drive out was eventful. Winds shoved snow into drifts in the road. The bumper of the Subaru played snow plow through the drifts. The wind tried pushing the car around. And even in all this misery, the Moab Marathon was about to begin as I drove past the starting line.

Next year I'm going at the end of April.

Big Horn View & Rim Trail

4/3/09

I woke in the morning excited about hiking along the rim of Dead Horse Point. Clouds drifted through but there was enough sucker-holes to make me want to get on with it. So I grabbed my pack and the dog to explore the rim views and formations - hoping to see potholes and maybe a few animals.

We first went north from the campground to Big Horn View to see the potholes and at least get a couple of miles in just in case the weather turned yucky as it was predicted to do. Hiking in the desert is a lot different than hiking here in the northwest. The trail isn't always obvious and is often marked with little stone cairns which are easy to miss if you're not paying attention. I got side-tracked several ties where needed to stop take stock of the "trail" and turnaround for the real one. Even though the country is so open, I could easily see how I could get lost.

I let Olympia's leash drop so she could explore a little wider scope. But I held her close as we approached the cliff walls. I could also quickly grab it when people came by to both give the others a sense of security that my dog wouldn't jump all over them and give them kisses, plus the added sense that we were following the rules of the park. I'm sorry if this offends anyone, but come-on - it's Olympia, you know, Ole-Gimpy? All she wants to do is get belly rubs from anyone willing. And wildlife? chasing them is out of the question. She couldn't even chase her own tail with the legs she's got right now. So if letting her drag her lash behind her in the sand is evil, then I am sorry for you poor state of judgement.

We got back to camp for lunch and I downloaded the images I had so far taken on my trip. Then the sky cleared and Olympia jumped on the trail heading southward to the point. I figured we could hike that and be back in camp in time for dinner, relax a bit, get up early for sunrise then mosey on home. Yeah, I noticed that, I was already stretching beyond the day in my plans. Remember I mentioned the weather report? That the weather would take a turn for the worse? Well, what we had was the largest sucker-hole I'd seen in a long time. We were out for 2 hours enjoying the warmth and the views when the wind kicked up. Followed by rain, which in turn was followed by snow. and wee weren't even o the point yet.

The image above illustrates the drama a storm has as it slowly moves across the canyonlands. By the time wee made the point, both Olympia & I had had about enough but we still had a couple of miles to go before it was over. We hurried through the second half of the hike. I kept note of some of the views I wanted to see again but mostly wee just walked as fast as we could through the wind and snow.

Olympia went straight into the tent as I quickly heated up a can of chili and we ate in the pseudo-comfort of the tent. Winter was not quite over in the canyonlands.

6th Stop - Dead Horse Point

4/2/09

How this little section of Utah's canyonlands didn't become part of the National Park system is beyond comprehension. Utah definitely got the better end of the deal. The scenery from the rim all around the state park is jaw-dropping. I honestly believe that Dead Horse Point State Park contains better views than Canyonlands National Park. Michael was right, I was going to enjoy my stay in this little park.

Dead Horse Point got its name from an unfortunate incident back in the pioneer days. Cowboys would round up wild horses on the "point" of the mesa which with its narrow neck made a natural corral. The cowboys would then pull out the horses they wanted and release the ones they didn't. However, they didn't always release the horses and the captive horses would soon succumb to death from dehydration. Sickening, really. But that was the way they thought back then. So glad we know better now.

Still, the views are well worth any effort to see them.

5th Stop - Canyonlands National Park

4/2/09

After my drive through Arches, and a quick stop to set up camp at Dead Horse Point State Park, Olympia and I ventured into Canyonlands National Park. I hoped to catch sunset at one of the many overlooks. The late afternoon sun made the spring growth glow with color and light. And I saw many opportunities for hiking at a later date. We parked at an overlook and had dinner in the back of the car. Cold wind blasted us every now and then - and to think, earlier in the day I had contemplated putting on my shorts.

There is a certain beauty in the desert. I had fallen in love with it a few years earlier on my first trip here. It's almost a sense of complex simplicity. The colors and textures of the land elicit both a tension in your sight and a calming presence in your soul. And then there's the ability to see for miles. In western Washington, trees get in the way of the views. That's one of the reasons I love hiking in the alpine zone - no trees. I love the trees, the green, the moisture of life. But the desert tugs my heart to a different view of life.

4th Stop - Arches National Park

4/2/09

It was cold when I woke up. Cold pains shot through my fingers as I pulled down the tent. But I had to keep going, a reservation at Dead Horse Point awaited me. I kept thinking about a luke-warm shower would also await me after I packed up the car. Disappointment instead was my reality - the rangers had turned off the water during the cold snap. I almost cried and in fact did when I finally talked to Michael on the phone. The loneliness hit me hard and I was ready to head home. But Michael convinced me that I would enjoy my stay at Dead Horse Point.

There are two national parks near Dead Horse Point: Arches and Canyonlands. Even though Olympia was with me, I could not pass up the opportunity to visit either. So I turned off the road just before entering Moab into Arches.

I am often disappointed if I just drive through a park without getting out of the car for a hike or two. Although I enjoyed seeing the new scenery, I wished I could walk through some of the sandstone canyons and features. Too bad the Park Service has such a negative view on dogs. I understand their reasoning but Olympia is practically lame so wouldn't be chasing after anything - except maybe a tumbleweed - and I do pick up after her. I will just have to come back at some point for more exploration.

Temple Mountain and South Temple Wash

4/1/09

With satisfied appetites, I looked at the map for an adventure close to the park. An 8-mile canyon hike looked promising except for Olympia's inability to walk farther than just a few miles. As I was contemplating how to get Olympia through the canyon another nearby land formation caught my eye - Temple Mountain.

The guidebook stated that Temple Mountain is the highest point along the San Rafael Swell. This was something I just had to see. After getting warned of the old uranium mines in the area - highly radioactive, lots of radon . . . and bats - Olympia and I set off to explore the area leading to Temple Mountain. We wouldn't be able to reach the top as most of the upper trail had been destroyed by erosion, but I wanted to get a good view and get a little more walking in.

Along the way, we stopped to look at some ancient pictographs. chunks of sandstone with the paintings had fallen away either by erosion or stupidity. If it was stupidity, I'd like to kick a few chunks off the idiots who thought it would be fun to destroy this ancient art.

Olympia and I walked up old roads past abandoned mines and equipment. At one point this area was a thriving community of uranium miners. Then the bottom fell out of the market - odd thinking that since nuclear power had been the ideal power source for so long and is still highly recommended in some circles. We turned around after a good look at Temple Mountain, thinking this would be a great place to come for sunset.

On the way to Temple Mountain, I had noticed white rounded sandstone hills that looked like they might be fun to explore. And explore them we did. Little pockets of vegetation and expansive views of the prairie were what awaited us. Olympia even tried her paws at rock climbing when I climbed up a rock for a better view. She must have thought I was leaving her behind because I heard the scrabbling of claws on rock and turned around to see her hoist herself up the same incline I had just scrambled up myself. The determination of a dog, even a gimpy one.

By the time we ate dinner the wind had died down quite a bit and I was able to clean out the tent before heading back for sunset. Still, I would be shaking out sand even after I got home.

Carmel Canyon & the Valley of the Goblins

4/1/09

The wind continued to blow throughout the night, showering sand and grit through the bug-mesh on my tent. There was no escaping the grit. When I would leave the next day, I was still eating grit that found it's way into the cracks and crevasses of my gear. I was still cleaning grit out of my ears two days after I returned home. Just because it was the morning, the wind didn't let up. In fact it brought a little snow with it. Olympia & I huddled in the car, warming up a little and letting the band of snow pass before heading to the valley and one of the trails I wanted to scout - Carmel Canyon.

Desert hiking for a Northwesterner is a little disturbing. there are no easy trails to follow - in fact there are at times no trail at all. Just rock cairns spaced along the general route you want to follow. Several times along the Carmel Canyon trail, I had to stop to look back the direction I had just come from to make sure I hadn't somehow missed a pile of rocks. Olympia was happy just to roam from one sage to the next, smelling what had passed before. After we got through the open sandstone section of the trail, the cairns were easier to follow and we soon found ourselves meandering along with an arroyo.

There were distant views of sandstone mesas and the openness of the land made me want to run free or spread my wings and fly. Which could have been very easy as the wind still hadn't relented. Soon Olympia & I turned up in the canyon and followed the narrow channel as it twisted through the steep cliffs, becoming even narrower turning into a slot canyon. The last time I visited the Southwest, I spent much of my time in the slot canyons of Arizona - I fell in love. That love was one of the reasons I wanted to return to the Southwest. I feel as if cradled by my mother when I walk through the dark reaches of the earth.

We came back out into the parking lot, again buffeted by winds - the canyon walls had shielded us from the blowing onslaught. I figured this would be an opportune moment to explore the bizarre sandstone formations which give Goblin Valley its name. There are three sections to the valley, I stayed in the 1st one. Next time though I will spend far more time exploring them to the end. The variations of erosion on the land make for amazing shapes and shadows. I spent only a couple of hours weaving through the formations but could easily spend a whole day. As my stomach started rumbling and lunch still in camp, Olympia & I made our way back shielding our eyes from the sand carried by the gusting wind looking forward to our afternoon adventures.

3rd Stop - Goblin Valley

3/31/09

Such an ominous name - Goblin Valley. Brings up fairy tales of lost little girls in the wilderness besieged by monsters in the shadows. But no frightening creatures were there awaiting me and Olympia. What did great us were prairies, bluffs, sandstone cliffs . . . and wind.

This time I was ready. I staked down the tent to hold it still while I set up and grew quite envious of the campers tucked away behind sandstone outcrops - the wind didn't seem to buffet them around as much. I am sure the grit in their tents was considerably less.

Olympia and I scouted out the campground and wandered to the entrance station admiring the late afternoon light on the prairie. we snuggled into our tent when we returned. The winds coming across the prairie brought with them sand and grit that found their way under my rainfly and through the bug mesh on my tent. There is just something nasty about eating grit in the middle of the night. I began to understand just a little of what Helen Thayer went through in the Gobi.

The next day we would explore the goblins.

2nd Stop - Bruneau Sand Dunes

3/30/09

I had driven through most of the night and snow storms in the mountains of Idaho - a little hairy at 2am when I was practically the only one travelling on the highway. After sleeping in the car in Riggins, we were off again heading to Bruneau Sand Dunes near Mountain Home. Winter was still in existence in the mountains but spring seemed to be right around the corner in the valleys. At Bruneau it seemed as if spring was being swept in by the wind.

Setting up my tent was an exercise in creativity as I sorted out the pieces and chased down stray bits as they darted across the campground. Finally, I staked down the ground cloth and tent and got the poles positioned. Everything after that was fairly easy. With the tent set up, Olympia and I went on a hike along the lake and through one of the smaller dunes. One of the reasons I like Bruneau so much is the sense of solitude that can be experienced as you walk though the dunes large and small. Although people were having a picnic in the sand I felt as if I had the place to myself.

Coots swam through the water, skimming just under the surface for algae. Wind kicked up the loose sand carrying it across the surface in a fine dust. Jack rabbits darted from shrub to shrub. A hawk floated on thermals overhead. Birds flitted through the winter-bare trees. All of a sudden, Olympia stood at attention hackles raised a low grumble escaped from the throat - I steeled myself for what I believed would have to be a dog tackle before she chased off after some poor critter. Instead Olympia darted after a tumbleweed. Yes, my big brave puppy felt the need to protect me from a vicious attack of tumbleweeds.

After a beautiful sunset, we settled into the tent for the evening serenaded to sleep by an owl or two.

1st stop - The Palouse

3/29/09

The forecast called for snow again over the weekend proving that spring was still far away, yet the vibrant colors in the flower stalls in the market prior to my departure rallied my hopes that spring would indeed be right around the corner. Furthering my hopes that spring would be quickly on its way, the drive over the pass to Spokane revealed more land as the snows receded, the ice in the waterfalls replaced by flowing water. Yet this morning we woke to snow falling on the hills of the Palouse - winter was refusing to release its hold on the northwest.

However, I had been looking for this up close look at the Palouse by people who lived in the area, I was not going to let it pass. We did pass planned photo-op after photo-op as the falling snow made distant views non-existent. At breakfast we were joined by a local farmer turned historian, Glen Leitz, who shared with us bits and pieces of the history of the Palouse. I always enjoy listening to oral history and this gentleman had a lot to tell, so much in fact that we had to leave before he even finished his stories.

We continued on our journey as the snows started slacking off so we were able to stop at more places - museums, barns, mills, churches and cemeteries. All unique in their photographic qualities. I began to realize I would need to come back for several days to truly capture this rare and beautiful place. Finally, the clouds started breaking apart in the late afternoon and the sun highlighted the hills in the distance. Just in time too, our final stop near sunset would be Steptoe Butte.

Never seeing Steptoe before, I was extremely excited as I drove up the winding road to the top. Each turn revealed more of the scenery - rolling hills touched with snow stretching in every direction. I decided to leave before sunset - eager to be on my way and hoping to be someplace really cool for sunset. I was in a gully at the best color, but a not too disappointed because I knew my trip had started off great - even if spring was reticent in its appearance.

Spring Road Trip 2009

3/28/09-4/4/09

Another Spring and another road trip - and boy was I ready for this one. Early in the winter I learned that Frans Lanting would be speaking in Spokane for the PSA conference held there at the end of March. This time I would not miss the conference for Frans is one of my photography idols. I decided to plan this trip around going to Spokane and kicking off a fabulous photo vacation for myself.

This year I had the strongest desire to head back down to Utah planning 4 days near the Moab area: Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Goblin Valley, and Dead Horse Point. There would also be a slight layover at Bruneau Sand Dunes as I had been wanting to visit there again.

Olympia would be my traveling companion. I enjoy this time by myself but I really do like having someone with me. Olympia's conversations aren't the best but she good company never the less.

So continue reading the stories are adventuresome and I hope you enjoy reading about them as much as I had experiencing them.