Washington State Parks: Conconully

On the outskirts of the little town of Conconully which lies on the edge of the Okanagan National Forest, sits the small park of Conconully State Park. On the east side of the park site the town of (at last count) 210 residents and on the west side, Conconully Lake, a reservoir lake created by the Conconully dam.

I fist came here late one 4th of July. I didn't have a reservation for the campground and the town was buzzing with revelers. For a small town, they sure do know how to throw a party with live music well into the night and an old western-style gun battle scheduled for the next day. I found a parking spot just outside of the park along one of the roads, in between a truck and a couple of motorcycles, the riders of which were in town having some fun.

Zillah and I snuggled into the front seat of the car for a restless night's sleep - at some point in my life, sleeping in the car has ceased to be fun - but we made the best of the situation. At some point in the night, a storm passed through and fat raindrops splattered against the open window and into the car. I rolled the window up a bit. Cars drove by, drunks stumbled home and the night turned into morning.

It was morning that gave me my first sight of Conconully State Park, nestled in the hills looking out over the lake. Zillah and I startled some ducks as we meandered along the shore. An osprey dove into the water fishing for breakfast and the sunlight lit the surrounding hills, still trying to hold onto the last of the green of spring.

But that was last year. This year is a different story - the town residents and visitors have been ordered to evacuate the town as a fire bears down on the lake, the park and the historic buildings.

Fire has no direction - it goes as the winds push it and the fuel pulls it. And now a cute little town with 100+ years of history, festivals and western gun fights is in the path that fuel and wind have built for the fire. The little park on the shores of Conconully Lake with the ducks, osprey and old cottonwoods could be surrounded not by rolling green hills but hills blackened by flame and smoke and soot.

My thoughts and prayers are with those who had to flee for safety and the fire fighters trying to save the town. And prayers for big fat raindrops splashing down.

Washington State Parks: Willie Keil's Grave

On a small hill in a cow pasture nestled in the Willapa Hills of SW Washington stands a testament of the strength of a father's promise to his son. Willie Keil's Grave is no more than a pullout along highway 6 but it's story if far grander.

Willie's father was the leader of a religious sect called the Bethelites based in Bethel, MO. The group of Bethelites decided to look for their "promised land" in the fertile hills of the Oregon Territory. The year was 1855 and the way to the northwest from Missouri was a long arduous trek over the great plains by wagon. Willie was 19 and enthusiastic about the adventure. He learned to drive the oxen team that would pull his family's wagon across the plains. He became so proficient that the Bethelites awarded him the honor of driving the lead team.

However, prior to the departure, Willies became ill with Malaria. His father promised that he would not leave Willie behind - no matter what. Four days before the departure, Willie died. Remembering his promise to his son, he built a sturdy coffin lined with lead and filled it with whiskey to preserve Willie's body, put the coffin in the lead wagon and proceeded to lead his followers to the fertile lands of the northwest.

Six months later Willie was finally laid to rest in his coffin filled with whiskey in the rolling green hills of the Willapa valley.

Sadly, the Bethelites moved south of the Columbia River a few years later, but they left Willie in the lands he had dreamed of.

Now, you might not think there is much to photograph at a highway roadside along a cow pasture, but it is these situations where you can really exercise your creativity. While on road trips, have you ever grabbed your camera while running to the bathroom at the rest area? If so then you know what I'm talking about. If not, why not?

Practicing your photographic craft isn't all about the grand landscape with stunning lighting and awe-inspiring sunlight reflected in the clouds. Practicing photography is finding the elements of a landscape that help portray your emotions and experience at that time. It's in places like waysides when you want to stretch your legs that are perfect for stretching your creative muscles.

Camera memory is cheap so why not play and practice to understand what you're aiming for and how to get there. Maybe at some point, you will be asked to lead the way as Willie was. Just stay healthy so when you reach your goal you can appreciate it.

To get there: Willie Keil's Grave State park is located on Highway 6 just 4 miles east of Raymond or 51 miles west of Chehalis.

Washington State Parks: Jarrell Cove

To borrow a phrase from my sister when she described Jarrell Cove, this is a little gem of a park.

With two large docks, 14 off-shore moorage bouys and several boat-in camping areas, Jarrell Cove is used primarily for boaters out fishing in the waters off Key Peninsula or out for a relaxing paddle around the islands. But there is so much more to this park.

A trail allows visitors to stroll through the forest, towering douglas-fir reaching towards the sky with salal and sword fern greening the forest floor. Wildflowers and mushrooms peak out from under moss covered logs that appear to glow in the light. It's a forest that seems so wild but always just a few yards from the campground and road.

But there is more. Walk to the "L" dock for views further into the cove. Come here in the morning to catch the morning glow over the trees or the evening to catch the last rays of light on those same trees - it will feel different in the different light. On the "T" dock look across to the boats moored on the other side of the cove or look out into Pickering Passage.

Come to Jarrell Cove for a quiet respite, your camera will not be disappointed.

To get here: From Shelton drive north on Highway 3 for 6 miles or south on Highway 3 from Bremerton for 23 1/2 miles. Turn east on E Pickering Rd for 3 miles across the Harstine Island Bridge then turn left on North Island Dr. Follow North Island Drive for 3 1/2 miles and turn left on E Wingert Rd to the park.

Washington State Parks: Wanapum

The mighty Columbia River starts with not so humble beginnings in the Columbia Icefields of the Canadian Rockies and flows 1,243 miles to the Pacific Ocean. When Lewis & Clark first explored the west and David Douglas investigated the native flora and fauna, the Columbia ran free and wild. But in recent history this grand river was tamed and tethered, passing through 14 dams providing flood control, irrigation and electricity to the populations of the northwest.

Among these is Wanapum Dam which forms LakeWanapum near Vantage. The dam lies south of Vantage and between the town and the dam on the shores of Lake Wanapum lies Wanapum State Park.

Sitting on a small hill above the lake, Wanapum has a nice view of the dam to the south – far enough away the ever illuminated lights aren’t a nuisance to campers. Wait for the vibrant blue of twilight and the lights from the dam against twilight and the canyon walls can make a compelling image. Walk through the sage hillside in the spring to photograph wildflowers in the scrubby brush. Beautiful floral colors against the grey green sage creates a beautiful contrast.

When the waters in Lake Wanapum are low, walk the sandy beach between the day use area and the boat ramp. The beach here is littered with thousands of tiny clam shells, some no larger than a dime. Try photographing them backlit by the sun to show off their glowing transluscence.

For a small park built primarily for camping to accommodate the visitors to Ginkgo Petrified Forest State Park to the north and boaters visiting Lake Wanapum, Wanapum State Park has a lot of potential for beauty.

To get there:  From I-90 either east or west take exit 136 from Vantage/Huntzinger Rd. Turn south and drive for 3 miles to the park.

Washington State Parks: Ginkgo Petrified Forest

Once upon a time there was a vast forest covering what is now the dry landscape of eastern Washington. Douglas-fir, oak, hemlock, walnut and ginkgo forested the land stretching for miles in a blanket of greens. Then volcanic eruptions blanketed the land east of the cascades in lava and ash killing the forest and covering lakes. Soon any logs that had fallen into the lakes were preserved in a chemical process where nutrients in the logs were replaced with silica turning them to stone.

Fossilized trees.

Kind of cool really. But what’s really cool about the petrified trees of Ginkgo is that this is one of the few places on earth where fossilized remains of ginkgo trees exist. Ginkgo trees no longer grow naturally in the wild, they are a cultivated tree but at one time they could be found in forests growing freely. And this is why Ginkgo State Park is named after the tree – it holds the proof that these trees were once wild.

The park is essentially separated in two distinct areas although much of the land surrounding Ginkgo is under Washington State Park protection, it is undeveloped. The developed areas contain 3 miles of hiking trails, picnic areas, boat launch and Interpretive Center. 

The first area of the park is where you will see the petrified trees. Looping trails meander through the hills giving you views of the sage country and glimpses of the petrified trees. The trees are partially submerged in the earth locked behind iron fencing. But it you place your lens on the fencing and zoom in past the fence, you can easily capture details of the trunks. Also bring along a medium sized diffuser to help block the sun from casting harsh shadows across your subject. But the trees aren't the only things to photograph here. Song birds fly and sing amongst the sage brush and in the spring flowers spread across the land shaded by the shrubs. And the views are simple yet soothing.

In the town of Vantage is the second area to explore. High on a bluff overlooking the Columbia River stands the interpretive center telling the story of the natural and cultural histories of the area. Here you can find more petrified logs and petroglyphs rescued from the flooding River when Wanapum Dam was built about 5 miles south of the park. From this vantage point, you have views up and down the Columbia River and the basalt cliffs that contain the river.

A trip to both areas is well worth your time.

To get there: From I-90 heading either east or west, take exit 136 (Vantage/Huntzinger Rd) and turn north to Vantage.  For the Interpretive Center, drive through Vantage on Main St and turn right on Ginkgo Ave. Drive to the end to the parking lot. For the Petrified Forest trails, continue on Main St as it curves to the left and becomes Vantage Highway. The parking area for the trails is approximately 2 miles on the right. 

Washington State Parks: Field's Spring

Sometimes it pays to talk to the park rangers, volunteers and other employees of the state parks.
On my recent trip to Field's Spring, a park I had never visited before but will be visiting again, I was meandering around the parking lot and the trails between one of the lodges and the campground. The park is know for being a wildflower heaven during the months of May and June, so I was looking at all of the forest wildflowers popping up and was completely thrilled to be able to photograph both the male and female flowers of the meadowrue.

Before I had decided to stay close to camp (I was rather tired after the drive from Seattle to south of Clarkston), I had the opportunity to chat with Mike & Kathy the campground hosts. A very kind couple who enthusiastically showed me the wildflowers pictures they had taken on their hike up Puffer Butte, the high point of the park with views into Oregon and Idaho.  They found lupine, lomatium, calypso orchids, phlox, paintbrush and several other flowers on the trail and in the meadow at the top. Feeling the exhaustion set in, I decided to stick around camp and head up the hill for sunrise and morning golden hour photography.

So there I was, meandering around the campground and lodges when a beat up red sedan pulled up next to me with an older gentleman driving, his passenger was a big German Shepard standing in the passenger seat nose to the windshield and tongue hanging out. "You looking for birds?" he asked leaning his head out the window. One look at the car and the monster of a dog next to him, I knew he was someone with something to say. "No, not really. I'm looking for wildflowers - they're easier to spot."

"Oh. You want wildflowers. Well, have you been out the corral trail yet?"

"No. Where is that."

"You'll want to follow the dirt road here past the lodge to the gate. Go through the gate onto the trail. Take the Morning Song Trail and at the end of that trail there's a smaller trail that follows the ridge. You can go out there. You can go anywhere - it all belongs to the park, so it's ok. But that's where you'll find all the wildflowers you want. I know - I used to work here."

"Oh, thank you. This road here?"

"Yep. you can drive out to the gate too - there's a parking lot there."

"Thanks."

I watched as he drove off with his dog balancing in the front seat. I looked at the road he pointed out and decided that I needed to explore every corner since that is why I was there. His advice did not disappoint.

Just off the Corral Trail was the Morning Song Trail. A short walk brought me to sweeping views of the Blue Mountains and at my feet - flowers. Lupine, Balsamroot, Scarlett Gilia, Indian Paintbrush in so many colors I lost count and flowers I had never before seen.

I followed Morning Song to it's end but it hooked back into the Corral Trail. There was no trail along the ridge. I thought to retrace my steps, but instead continued along the Corral Trail to its end. I did find the trail along the ridge but will tell you about it in the book in a feature named Insider's Tips. These will be hints and tips from the people who know the park from the inside out.

Oh, and at the end of the Corral Trail is an old broken down corral and more views including a view of Puffer Butte.

To Get There: It's a short 29 miles from Clarkston, WA. Follow Highway 129 south to Asotin. In Asotin, Highway 129 turns right to head up into the plateau. Turn right to continue on Highway 129. The park is on your left 22 miles from Asotin.

Washington State Parks: Camano Island State Park

Camino Island State Park is a case study of a community coming together with a common goal and building a long lasting legacy. Organized by the South Camano Grange on July 27, 1949, 500 volunteers from Camano Island and nearby Stanwood built the park. In one day, they cleared the land, built roads and trails, picnic tables and a parking area. The South Camano Grange won 3rd prize in a national contest for the event and the park.

Over the years Camano Island State Park has grown but the devotion of a small group of residents who believed that they could build a park and create access to the beach for everyone can still be felt in every trail, campsite and table.

The parks sits on a wooded high bluff overlooking Saratoga Passage and includes the rocky beach below. Trails meander throughout the park weaving through the thick forest of Douglas Fir and Sword Fern. The Al Emerson Nature Trail built in remembrance for the first park ranger takes a hiker on a journey through the life cycle of the forest. A photographer can find small intimate vignettes of nature and life in the trees.

From viewpoints along the bluff, you have sweeping views of Saratoga Passage and the mountains of the Olympics and southeast towards Mt Rainier. head down towards the beach and you'll find on the east side of the parking lot a marsh filled with cattails and birds. The beach is rocky and popular with shellfish harvesters. Which can be a boon to photographers looking for details on the beach. Textures abound as do small vignettes of sea life. While on the beach, throw your polarizer on your lens and play with the reflections on the ripples and the rocks below. Don't leave before sunset, for here is a grand place for the colors of the evening.

To Get There:

From I-5 North or South, take exit 212 for State Route 532 to Stanwood and Camano Island. Follow SR 532 west for approximately 10 miles and continue onto E Camano Island Dr. In about 6 miles turn right onto E Monticello Dr. Turn right on SW Camano Dr and then right on Lowell Point Rd.