Washington State Park: Wallace Falls

Growing up in Monroe, I spent a bit of time at our local state park Wallace Falls. It was the local park and a fun hike on the weekend, even in the winter. When higher elevations were snowed in, Wallace Falls was there for us, like an old friend. It has been a fall-back hike years when snow lingered in the mountains longer than desired. And it's been a perfect late season hike. It was also one of the hikes I went on with my big 4x5 view camera when I was taking classes on exposure in college.

I understood, after that hike, why William Henry Jackson had donkeys.

The park hasn't changed a lot and yet it has changed so much. Rental cabins have been added to add more space for anyone wanting to sleep close to the Wallace River. Plus a few more trails have been added leading hikers to Wallace Lake and Jay Lake. Backpackers can now sleep overnight near Wallace Lake with a permit from the park.

But the true draw here is the falls. Wallace Falls is three falls along the river, creatively named upper, middle & lower falls. Each spectacular on their own, but all together quite amazing. Middle falls can be seen from highway 2. Each falls has its own viewing area plus there are viewpoints along the trail that look out over the Skykomish valley.

Don't be in too much of a hurry to get the the main attraction. The Wallace River is beautiful as it tumbles over river rocks below low hanging limbs of the thick forest. Take the small side trail to Small Falls, an appetizer for the main attraction. You'll see these if you hike the Woody Trail which I advise either on the way to or from - you will not want to miss them. The Railroad Grade is an easier climb but longer. The walk here can be cool in the summer heat with the overhanging maples and alders that turn yellow in the fall.

Small details of the forest can be found on either trail (and you can make a loop out of your hike with a short connector trail - the connector trail also gets you to the Greg Ball Trail which leads to Wallace Lake). Small streams, ferns, flowers, and mushrooms help bring life to the forest. Bring your macro lens for some of the details.

This is a park where you'll want to bring your long lens, your short lens and your macro lens. You'll find an opportunity to use them all.

To get there, drive Highway 2 to the town of Gold Bar. Westbound, turn right on 1st Ave, Eastbound turn left. Turn right onto May Creek Rd and follow for about 3/4 of a mile. Turn left on Wallace Lake Rd, and arrive at the park.

Washington State Parks: Bottle Beach

Little Bottle Beach State Park. It holds so much in it's tiny package: history, scenery, wildlife. And it's all tucked away next to the highway along Grays Harbor. What's not to love?

On the site of Bottle Beach State Park once stood the community of Ocosta by the Sea - the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad was located here and a grand port had been in the plans. Hotels, churches, schools and industry sprung up in the area including a bottle company. But as it sometimes happens the railroad went somewhere else, the economy sunk and sediment along the shoreline made it difficult for large ships to moor. Sadly Ocosta by the Sea became no more.

As the town dwindled, nature came back. The marshes are filled with birds. Grays Harbor is one of the most important feeding areas for migratory shorebirds. Millions of birds have fed on invertebrates in the mud flats as they migrate north to their breeding grounds. It's estimated that about 20% of them can be found near Bottle Beach. Whew! That's quite a population for this little spec of land.

What about the scenery you ask? If the park is on 75 acres how much scenery can there be? And mud flats? Euw. But don't despair my landscape and scenery friends, the trail to the beach meanders through marshlands and you almost feel as if they could stretch forever. Grand mountain views? Who needs those when you have open skies and rugged land in front of you?

Continue to the beach where the skeleton of an old building remains. Skirt around the side to a wide open stretch of beach. When the tide is out, you can see the remnants of the pilings for the long docks that once stretched out into the bay creating wonderful lines towards the horizon. Walk out on the mud flats for ripples in the earth and almost hidden pockets of standing water. It's the feel of another world.

Bring your long lens for the birds and your imagination to take you back into yesteryear. This little park will not disappoint.

To get here drive highway 105 from Aberdeen along the south shore of Grays Harbor for approximately 15 miles. The parking lot is on the north side of the highway.

Washington State Parks: Joeph Whidbey State Park

In an age of exploration, a young man served with Captain Vancouver on his journey aboard the Discovery during the years of 1791-95. His adventurous spirit led him to explore the waters of Puget Sound with Peter Puget and later to circumnavigate the largest island in the Sound. Vancouver promptly honored him by naming the island after him: Whidbey Island. Joseph Whidbey returned to England and later became well-known as a Naval Engineer. The island still bears his name as well as a small state park near Port Orchard.

Although Joseph Whidbey is a relatively small state park, it's big on adventure. The park's 112 acres include forests, fields, marsh and saltwater shoreline. Your photographic opportunities abound.

Walk the forested trail to the wide open meadows. In the fall you'll have pastel fall colors in the trees and understory and don't forget to look at your feet for mushrooms. The spring brings woodland flowers and the fresh face of green.

The trail continues through a large meadow where birds flit from shrub to bordering tree. You'll come across some marshy areas where frogs perch at the side of the trail watching hikers pass by. Come in the fall and bring a bucket to pick blackberries while you wait for sunset on the beach.

You will not want to miss sunset from the beach. The shoreline overlooks waters from the Strait of Juan de Fuca and sunsets here are a grand finale for beautiful days. The beach is considered one of the best on the island. No matter if you agree with this statement or not, this little park is worth lingering and photographing.

Remember to bring your tripod and polarizing filter. The tripod will help you in the darker areas of the forest and as twilight approaches. The polarizing filter will cut the glare off leaves and water.

To get there from Highway 20 - driving North turn left on Swantown Rd, if driving South turn right. Follow Swantown Rd for 1/2 mile then turn right on Heller St. Continue on Heller St for 1 1/4 miles and turn left on NW Crosby Ave. The park will be on your right in approx 1 1/2 miles.

Read more about Joseph Whidbey and his explorations in the Northwest on the HistoryLink website.

It's becoming a wonderful journey.

A few months ago I decided to turn a personal project into a book. A rather frightening idea for me. All my apprehensions of putting my knowledge, my talent, myself out for public display keep creeping into my internal dialogue.

What if I fail?

What if I do get it done and everyone hates it?

What if I succeed? Could I live up to the expectations?

My experiences while working on the book have, if not squashed these doubts, at least muted them.

First while driving through a state park on Whidbey Island one morning, I happened across a great horned owl sitting on a sign post next to the road. I stopped my car thinking it would fly away when I did. It didn't. I popped open my trunk and pulled out my camera. The owl was still there watching me. It continued to sit there while I rattled off about a dozen frames before it had had enough and flew away into a tree.

A remarkable experience made all the more significant to me by the fact that my mother loved owls. She has been gone from my life for more than a quarter of a century. But seeing this owl, I knew she would have been proud of me and my project. That her encouragement would have helped me through the tougher times. I was filled with a warmth and happiness as if she had been there to give me a hug. I knew I was doing what was right for me.

Now I am also one who is afraid to ask for help - afraid to be an inconvenience to others. So for most of my time researching parks I've been heading out alone. Driving to and from parks by myself or with my dog Zillah who makes an excellent road trip buddy. But it does get lonely.

My last couple of park trips, I've been on the road with friends and I asked rather hesitantly if we could possibly stop so I could grab a couple of photographs and walk around to get a feel of the place. My friends all replied with an enthusiastic YES - happy to help me achieve my goal.

The support I've received from friends has helped to spur me forward. When I began this journey and decided to devote more of my free time to the book over hiking, I kind of resented it. No I enthusiastically plan my weekends around the book and find hiking can get in the way of it. It may be a hard fought balance in the coming months, but this excitement can't be contained.

Fort Simcoe, Washington State Park

Windswept plains, cavalry officers riding into the fort midst Native Americans. Sounds much like the opening scenes of a Hollywood movie. But this little corner of Washington isn't near Hollywood and this isn't a movie. This was life at Fort Simcoe in the mid 1800's. 

Driving out to Fort Simcoe felt like I was driving back in time. No not to 1850 but back to my college days in Wyoming. For me, there was always an air of history no matter where I went in Wyoming from the days before western cultures came to the cavalry and homesteaders. I had those same feelings driving through the plains of eastern Washington to get to remote Fort Simcoe. 

Driving past ranches and rural towns, you finally come to the old fort and it seems just a bit out of place. Where normally you would see utilitarian ranch homes and barns, here you find peaked gables of the Gothic Revival architectural style on the officer's quarters - stark white against the blue sky.

Five of the buildings are original - four of the officer's homes and the blockhouse. The other buildings in the park are reproductions. And all are picturesque. Between April and September, the officers' quarters are open to the public and furnished with period items. During the off-season, the park is still accessible, however the interior of the buildings are not. During the touring season, interpretive programs and re-enactments are offered.

The fort was built near natural springs and cottonwood trees flourish here. You can find birds and small critters in the shrubs and trees near the springs. Flowers bloom in the spring - both native and introduced plants.

And when you're exhausted from all the photo opportunities, lie down on the exercise yard and watch the clouds drift by and maybe get carried back into another time in history.

From Yakima, Take I-82/US 97 south to Lateral A Rd and turn right onto Lateral A Rd. Travel about 10 miles to Fort Rd and take a right. After approximately 12 miles, turn left on Fort Rd Extn. Follow Fort Rd Extn for 2 miles then turn left onto Signal Peak Rd. In approximately 5 miles turn right onto Fort Simcoe Rd. The park is on the left and is well signed.  

Heidi's Hotspots: Mt Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest: Artist's Point/Heather Meadows

I absolutely love going to the Mt Baker area. The south side of the mountain a great lake for boating and trails to explore. The north side has a premier ski area, great hiking and stunning views of Mt Baker and Mt Shuksan. This northern side of the mountain is the Heather Meadows/Artist Point area.

Follow State Highway 542 (Mt Baker Highway/Scenic Byway) from Bellingham through farming country and forest. There are several picturesque spots and detours along the way, but your true destination is nearer the end of the road.

In the winter, the road is closed at the ski area but if you are a skier, boarder or snowshoer that is far enough. Winters here are the best with thick snow, lots of slopes and fun ridges. The record snowfall for one season in North America was measured here during the 1998-1999 ski season at 1,140 inches of 95 feet. If snow is what you're looking for, here you will find it. Do take warning though that traveling in the backcountry during winter takes extra precautions on your part. There are many classes teaching you about snow safety and avalanche safety and I highly recommend taking them before venturing beyond the ski area.

Spring and summer comes slowly to Heather Meadows and even more slowly to Artist's Point beyond. There are years that the road to Artist's Point never melts out. But the years it does means there's a spectacle of close views of two extraordinary mountains. Called Koma Kulshan (White Mountain) by the Native Americans in the area, Mt Baker to the southwest is a volcano covered in snow and glaciers all years round. Mt Shuksan to the southeast can claim to be the most photographed peak in North America. And it's easy to see why with its craggy textures and glaciers.

Large groups of photographers gather at Picture Lake just below Heather Meadows to photograph Mt Shuksan in the evening light. You may need to elbow your way into a viewing area. But it's well worth the effort. Higher up on Artist's Point are the best vantage points for Mt Baker in the morning or evening light. Flowers sparkle in the meadows and along the trails. Wildlife can be shy around here, but keep on a lookout for ptarmigan as they frequents the area enough to have a ridge named after the birds.

Life seems to slow down a bit in the autumn on the mountain as the crowds disperse. However fall hiking here is often rewarded with an abundance of ripe blueberries and huckleberries. Some days I come off the trail with juice stained hands. The other benefit of berry bushes are the vibrant colors of the leaves as they begin to turn color. Deep oranges and reds line the meadows and trails for dramatic effect.

With all the fun photo and adventure opportunities near Heather Meadows and Artist's Point, it's easy to see how a person can spend a year here and never be bored.

Autumn, Tis the Season . . .

To look down.

Fresh crisp air with vibrant blue skies and colorful leaves all around. It's very hard to take your eyes off such beauty - you almost get to feeling like a kid again wanting to run through piles of leaves as they float to the ground.

We walk the trails and pathways looking up at the colors in the trees, maybe with a few sun rays streaking through the lingering morning mists. We almost forget to look down unless we stumble.

But the beauty above our heads only tell half the story of this special season.

Go ahead, look down. What do you see?

Ok, if you're at home you're probably looking at your feet and carpet, maybe some toys, power cords and dirty laundry. But get up, step outside. Now what do you see?

Look and you will see colors, shapes and textures - all the things we look for as photographers. You'll see small forests of mushrooms. There's a varied palette of of color in the fallen leaves. And of course leaves of all shapes and sizes.

It's the season to bend over, kneel down or just lie on your belly to capture the world at your feet.

So grab your macro lens - actually any lens will do and go play at your feet.