The best way to keep your camera dry in a rainstorm.

I live in the Northwest and it rains here. No really, it does. I know you don't believe me, but I tell the truth. Some days it just rains more than others. I'm not sure which is a worse rain - the soft drizzling rain that soaks through even though it doesn't feel as if it would or the hard drenching rain that soaks through with one drop.

Both can wreck havoc on your camera gear. So what to do when it rains? Stay indoors? Never!

Here are some handy tips on keeping your camera equipment dry and workable during the wetter seasons (which in the northwest starts on January 1 and ends on December 31).

Electronics and water are not the best of friends, so it's best to try and keep them separated. To do this a plastic camera cover or sleeve is a great option. You can buy pre-made ones at your favorite camera store for anywhere between a few bucks up to $50. All of them work, but make sure you can manage working with them. There's nothing worse than heading out into the field and trying to figure out how to use your accessory or worse, the accessory is more trouble than it's worth. Try it out at home before you go.

Another option is to take a plastic bag (large enough to cover both your lens and the camera) and place your camera in the bag with the lens at the closed end. Next, take your lens hood (or a filter) and thread it on the lens (your lens will be on one side of the bag and the lens hood on the other). This creates an easily removable hole in the bag that is just big enough for your lens to fit through. Secure the end of the bag to the end of the lens with a rubberband and you're ready to go.

Speaking of plastic bags - it is also a good idea while you're out and about in the rain to also have a bag large enough to fit your camera bag into. It really helps to keep all your gear dry - a tall kitchen trash bag works well.

Now that you have protected your gear, how about protecting the front of your lens. Unless you really want them there, raindrops on the lens can ruin a photo or add extra time in front of the computer cloning them out.

Your lens hood can really help here. Not only will a lens hood block unwanted sun spots, it can reduce unwanted raindrops. And for those stray raindrops that happen to sneak onto the lens? A microfiber cleaning cloth between your exposures can help dry them up. If you're not ready to make another exposure, snap on your lens cap until you are ready.

So the next time it's raining, you'll be far more confident to head out for some weather photography. The above image was taken during a windy rainy day at Cape Disappointment in Southwest Washington at the mouth of the Columbia River. The waves crash violently along the cliffs during storms, so the next time a good storm is forecasted you know where to go.

The Foggy Days of Autumn

It's been foggy in the Puget Sound area lately. And I love fog combined with autumn color. The cool moist air makes hiking in the woods pleasurable. But are there images to be made in the fog? Of course there are, lots of images.

Fog is like a giant soft box and reduces contrast you would see on a bright sunny day. Which makes a foggy day perfect for photographing images that are better on overcast days; forests, flowers, faces and waterfalls or the 4 F's.

Why does this happen? Fog acts like a giant softbox. Fog disperses light (bounces and filters) reducing hard shadows. But these qualities can also fool your light meter into under-exposing your images - over-expose as you want that bright glowing light.

This diffraction of light helps to emphasize the distance between near and far objects. The image above is an example of this. The closer tree is well defined yet as your eyes move further into the background, the trees become less distinct until they become barely visible shadows of themselves.

On an ordinary day, this scene would be a jumble of trees and shrubs, making it difficult to isolate one tree from the rest. In the fog, the shape of the foreground tree stands out. You know that this is a field of trees because of the subtle shapes behind the front tree. But the limbs do not get lost in the limbs of the other trees - they are isolated and defined.

There are no harsh shadows falling across the field. Harsh shadows combined with bright sun on a bright day would be even more difficult to capture an image of these trees. Your light meter would either want to expose for the bright areas or the dark. You can overcome this harsh environment with multiple exposures and combining the images in Photoshop. Or you can wait for a foggy day.

Photographing in the fog both challenging and fun. So the next time you wake up to a foggy day, grab your camera and have some fun.