Autumn Solitude

Grand Park - Mt Rainier, 10/18/08, 8.6 miles, 1600 elevation

I have mentioned before that Grand Park on the north side of Mt Rainier is one of my favorite places. And the hike up to the park past Lake Eleanor is a pleasant stroll through the forest and meadows. During the spring, flowers cover the meadows. The last time we made our way up to Grand Park we were thwarted by snows. This time the autumn sun smiled upon us through cloud breaks and trees. As we passed into the lower meadow, the clouds parted around the mountain to remind me why I love this hike so much - the grand volcano's presence is always felt, like a watchful parent.

But the lower meadow only teases you as to the views above. Grand Park is a mile long flat meadow stretching out below Mount Fremont. The views of the mountain are unobscured. And on a glorious day, it shines like a beacon in the sky. There were a few flowers still hanging on, but autumn is in full swing on the mountain. The Gray Jays fluttered about as we reached the meadow but left us alone as we continued up the meadow to or lunch spot in full view of Mt Rainier. Until lunch not a single person hiked past us. Our only company was each other and the looming mountain ahead.

I love Grand Park for it's beauty and quiet solitude. Not many people seem to know about the trail past Lake Eleanor and the trail from Sunrise is too long for most casual hikers. So a hike here is guaranteed to bring you quiet reprise no matter what time of year.

All in NW Hiker's Day

White River Area, 7/13/08, 9 miles, 1000 elevation

Wildflowers and Snow. Waterfalls and Meadows. Forests and Frogs. A Lake and a River. A lost route. Two trails. Eight Friends. And one very large mountain. Yep. It's all in a NW Hiker's Day. At least in July of 2008. The snows that had hindered us on most trip planning had struck again as we attempted to hike into Grand Park on the north side of Mt Rainier.

I love Grand Park with its great unforested expanses of wildflower meadows that lead your feet and your attention to the hulking massive of Mt Rainier. It's a fantastical place that is a favorite of many hikers I know (including myself) and several naturalist friends. So when they offered it in the Mountaineer's Conditioning Hike Series, we signed up. However, this year nature had other plans - the trail reports coming from the National Park Service did not bode well. The report for the week prior to our trip stated the trail was still 100% under snow. But we decided to attempt it anyway.

Several hours later after spending half our time unsuccessfully route-finding in large snow fields insulated by the forest and tramping through the ankle-deep mud of the lower meadow, we sat on the banks of Lake Eleanor contemplating our next move. After all, we had only accomplished a small portion of our desired mileage and elevation. And it was still early enough in the afternoon to get some more trail under our feet. We settled on Skookumchuck Flats along the White River to the falls. Although that wouldn't add elevation to our day, we would be able to get in another 5 miles.

I had often thought about hiking along the White River past the falls but had yet to check the trail off the list. It's a nice trail frequented by mountain bikers out for a rolling pedal through the woods. But we met few on the trail this afternoon as we easily passed over the meadows through thick stands of Douglas Fir and twin-flowers. I left the trail much happier than when we left the Grand Park trail earlier - we were able to hike with a faster trek and I was able to feel the burn in my calves and hips as I stretched before heading off to dinner. But smiled a bit about hiking in the northwest and how sometimes you just have to stay flexible and have an alternate plan in mind.

A New Favorite

Grand Park 8/4/07 7.5 miles

There are just some hiking destinations that stay with me for a very long time: the Chain lakes loop on Mt Baker, Klapatche Park on Mt Rainier, Cape Alava on the Washington Coast, Bryce Canyon. The list isn't necessarily exclusive as it changes often. Sometimes a destination makes it on my list because the conditions were just absolutely perfect when I went. Sometimes they weren't but lack of fields full of flowers or crystal blue skies could not diminish the beauty and joy I experienced along the way. This is how Grand Park in Mt Rainier National Park can now be added to my list.

I had been wanting to explore the flower fields on the north side of Mt Rainier for several years but never found my way heading over there at the right time. After reading Karen Sykes' review in the Seattle PI on the trail heading up to Grand Park from Lake Eleanor, Michael and I decided we'd follow in her footsteps. However, Karen, your directions were a bit lacking - as we drove up the forest road, your directions said to turn right at 8 1/2 miles. However, at 8 1/2 miles if we had turned right wee would have driven right off a cliff. The turn actually takes place a little over 9 miles and even then it's more of the road goes straight with a junction heading off to the left. We were a bit confused until another hiker on his way out told us to keep on going - we'd see the trail ahead.

We found the trail as described and started toward Lake Eleanor along a gradual trail through open forest with berry and azalea undergrowth. Lake Eleanor is a smallish fishing hole set against the hillsides and frequented by both fishermen and mosquitoes. So after a quick stop to apply bug juice we were on our way. The description for this part of the trail was a gentle up and down before crossing a small meadow. Let's be honest, there is a gentle up and down but a drop off came upon us steep enough to make us question whether we were heading in the right direction. After backtracking to make sure we didn't miss a trail junction back by the lake, we decided to see where this down-hill took us. It took us to the small meadow. A bit deceptive, Karen.

After the meadow, we climbed through the mosquito-laden forest to an opening in the trees and a Lupine covered meadow. Passing through the trees a little further on to the great expanse of Grand Park. At once, my pulse slowed with wonder - the meadow stretched on. At each turn, the meadow continued. At the far end stood Mt Rainier partially shrouded by clouds. The flowers were plentiful with Contorted Louseworts, Small-Flowered Penstemon, Paintbrush and Cusick's Speedwell coloring the scene. I wanted to explore every corner of Grand Park but had only the afternoon.

I had expected more flowers, but the flowers there were beautiful all the same. I had hoped for unobstructed views of the mountain, but the glimpses became a bit of a tease. There were so many other things to look at. It was hard for me to leave this tranquility and comfort.